Here's more explanation about the error.
contact recur when I move a little off key. This does not happen very often, but once or twice per run, or when I touch the start key.
Have a bad contact when the engine is running, contact the motor is broken sometimes. Feed me with the key will return the contact, where is the error? Contactor for ignition or switch to start?
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Error Code: B2788
Blink Code: 41 Description: Communication Error (code does not match) Problem: - Wire harness or connector.
- Immobilizer or ECM is water contaminated.
- Engine Control Module.
- Transponder key computer assembly. Solution: - If you have replaced the key, ECM or immobilizer it needs to be programmed by a professional key maker.
- If it happened accidentally and you have the original working master key or remote, do the following.
- With ignition switch off, open the driver's door, short the pins 4 and 13 with paper clip or auto wire in Data Link Connector (16 Pin), which is located under the dash on steering wheel side.
- Leave the driver"s door open, switch ON the ignition and leave it ON for 30 minutes.
- After 30 minutes, switch OFF the ignition, remove the jumper wire and start the engine. If the engine starts and the check engine light is ON delete the code with scan tool and the job is done.
- If it is a smart key, bring the remote facing the Toyota emblem just near the push start button to hear a sound and put the remote on passenger's seat for one minute to complete the registration process.
- If the problem persists, contact a professional key programming personnel.
I discovered the problem was a worn key.. read on for the explanation and a couple pics
I have a 99 Tahoe and the engine on start would fire then die, and on other occasions while on the road without warning the engine would suddenly die. In both examples if I waited about 10 minutes it would restart an drive normally. I thought I might have the dreaded Passlock problem although my key doesn't have the chip on the side and the key head doesn't match other PL key designs. I discovered my ignition switch is mechanical with a bar magnet (I suspect) in the barrel. Apparently when the key is inserted the magnet retract into the barrel a little bit so it is farther from the sensor (hall effect?) in the cylinder receiver. After I removed the key cylinder from the steering column I was able to see the magnet retract in when the key is inserted, and project out when the key is removed. I also saw when the key is inserted in the cylinder it had wobble/play and the magnet also moved. I compared my daily key with an original spare and the tip of daily key is worn skinny compared the the spare key.. When the spare key is inserted there is less wobble and the magnet moves very little. I've been driving with the "spare" key for over a month now without a single stall event.
When you twist the ignition key from the "on" or "run" position to the start position, three things happen to start the engine. They are: a) the starter solenoid is energized [the starter solenoid is needed because the ignition switch has small wires capable of carrying 20 or 30 amps at the most and the starter motor will require hundreds of amps to spin - the solenoid can safely switch this huge amount of current], b) the starter drive gear solenoid (electro-magnet) is energized and physically causes the starter drive gear to move and engage the teeth on the engine's flywheel, and c) the starter motor spins the drive gear. The spinning drive gear turns the flywheel - simulating a very slow running engine. This sets up the timings for spark plug firing, fuel intake, compression, combustion, exhaust, etc. Without spinning the engine the timings wouldn't exist. The same happens when the starter rope is pulled on a typical lawn mower engine - except the starter is the person pulling the rope and the electro-magnet solenoid drive gear is the mechanical, spring loaded spool of rope (that magically is coiled up after pulling to start the engine.
Once the key is released, it defaults by spring action to the "run" position. The run position provides power to the ignition system to provide spark, etc. but electrically disconnects the power from the starter solenoid (and starter motor and drive gear solenoid as a result).
If the starter remains engaged after the key has been released from the start position (and the key moves back to the run position as designed), it could very well be a faulty ignition switch that is failing to open the electrical connection to the start solenoid. You *may* have some success by spraying a liberal amount of "electrical contact cleaner" directly into the key opening on the ignition switch. It will clear dirt, grime and other stuff that doesn't belong in it - so it may drip out very dirty - that means it's doing its job. Work the key in and out of the ignition and twist back and forth while spraying into the lock. With any luck, you'll clean the contacts enough so that it works properly. Never spray graphite or lubricants into the ignition switch - those products can be used on door locks only.
possibly be the same fault no power for engine can bus or no power for engine control module if CAN signal not receive the fan control unit from engine control unit fan start run at 100% speed if the same fuse blow again can be wiring short circuit or loose contact some wear or short circuit in the engine control unit when it's become hot.
i dont know hhwre i begin to explain you what to do because no complete explanation detailed before this happen, but i want you to try this procedure, turn the ignition on, with the engine off.turn off the ignition and remove the key, wait 5 seconds, insert key for 10 seconds, turn on ign. w/ engine off, 30 seconds off ignition, try to start, if problem the same pls post what happen before,,,
easiest way to handle this problem is as you turn the key turn the steering wheel back and forth not real hard bust firm and try and turn the key foward and back at the same time. usually what happens is the little detente inside the column gets stuck just right and stops the tumbler from moving
1993 Mitsubishi 3000 GT stalls for no good reason, you never really know for sure exactly when it’s going to happen. It might start up right away, or after a few cranks. It may be hard to start in the first place. This could be caused by a faulty ignition switch, and could be easily repaired. .5- If the engine cranks but wont start, hold the key firmly pressed inward or frontward while trying to start. 1- If the engine starts: energetically jiggle the ignition key back and forth while the engine is running. 2- If the engine stalls at any time while doing this, then you may have a defective ignition switch. 2.5- Remove the Ignition key from the ignition. 3- Remove the four screws from underneath the steering column cover. 4- Hold the lower half of the cover with both hands and pull it apart from the upper half. You might have to use some force to overcome the locking tabs, you might have to tilt the steering wheel up or down to remove the covers. 5- Insert the ignition key back into the key cylinder (ignition switch) 6- Turn the key to the on position (don’t start the engine) 7- Move the key in and outward while observing the opposite side of the key cylinder 8- If the opposite end of the key cylinder moves even a little, while moving the key; then the wiring side of the ignition switch has popped out of the key cylinder and needs to be secured back into place. (You don’t have to replace the key cylinder) 9- Press the wiring end of the key cylinder inward and tie it down firmly with a strong nylon zip tie. 10- This should take care of the problem. 10.5- Remove the ignition key. 11- Reinstall the removed parts.
Don’t use a rubber band to tie down the loose ignition part; it will break-off when the ignition switch gets hot.