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I had something similar happen on my 2004 CTS. The car would not crank, and I recall the security light was on the dash. The key could be turned off, but not quite far enough to be removed.
The key can be removed by sticking a small pin or screw driver in a hole under the steering column... maybe 2 inches from the actual steering wheel. I recall there is a small cover or plug in the hole that needs to be removed.
You can let it sit and occasionally try to start it. My did start once more.
I ended up having it towed to the GM dealer and they replaced the ECM for about $500? That took care of it for a couple years, until I recently sold it.
Can you get something that locks, like a Craftsman quick-release ratchet, into the drive hole? That might hold it tight enough to pull on while gently working it back and forth. Another possibility, Harbor Freight sells a small slide hammer, one of its puller tips is small enough to fit in a 1/4" drive.. but you'd need a fair amount of free space in front of it (12-15") to attach the slide hammer. Good Luck! (There is a close-up of a socket, inset in the image on the right side... kind of confusing.)
YOU NEED TO REMOVE FLYWHEEL REMOVE OIL PAN. REMOVE REAR OIL SEAL HOUSING BOLTS. USING THE PRY POINT LOCATED AT THE EDGE OF THE CRANKSHAFT REAR MAIN SEAL HOUSING SHEAR THE RTV SEALANT. REMOVE THE REAR MAIN OIL SEAL. INSTALL GUIDE PINS INTO THE TWO CRANK SHAFT REAR OIL SEAL HOUSING CORNER BOLT HOLES OF THE ENGINE BLOCK.INSTALL THE CRANKSHAFT REAR SEAL INSTALLING TOOL ONTO THE REAR OF THE CRANKSHAFT FLANGE. APPLY A 0.2 INCH 3MM BEAD OF SILICONE SEALANT TO THE REAR OIL SEAL HOUSING . INSTALL THE REAR HOUSING TO THE ENGINE BLOCK.REMOVE THE GUIDE PINS AND INSTALL THE HOUSING BOLTS TIGHTEN THE BOLTS TO 89 INCH LBS. REMOVE THE REAR SEAL INSTALLATION TOOL FROM THE CRANKSHAFT FLANGE.THEN INSTALL OIL PAN AND FLYWHEEL.
Most any kind of 4-cycle motor oil like 10W-30 will work in these motors. After draining the old oil replace the drain plug. There are two types of motor oil fill holes: 1. If you have a motor with the oil fill/check hole on the bottom of the motor and a small screw-in plug either with or without a small dip stick on it; with the motor level, fill the crank case with oil until it is up to the threads on the oil fill/check hole. 2. If you have a motor with a long dip stick that goes into a filler tube at the top of the motor, again with the motor level, put in about half a quart of oil and use the dip stick to check the oil level. If not full, add quarter quart amounts and check again until the oil is at the full mark on the dip stick. Do not overfill the crank case with oil. Most motors will take about one quart of oil but it varries so watch to see the oil level come up to the proper level.
The crankshaft position sensor is bolted to the block about a quarter inch away from your crank. Not the crank pulley but the actual crank. This means removing the cover for the timing belt and the timing belt itself along with many other parts. I have a 06 kia optima and I had to replace my crankshaft sensor, believe me you do not want to try unless you are mechanically inclined. If you remove the timing belt cover and look right next to the crank there is a little plastic piece bolted on with 2 bolts. That would be your crank sensor. Don't take timing belt off until you have all components lined up oil pump, crank, cams, etc. Also mark your belt at the marks when they are lined up so when you put it back on you know its right. If you do decide to replace it and you need some advice let me know and I would be glad to help. Hope that info helps you out.
There is a forum with several solutions. I figured out a different one after reading them since I did not have a welding unit.
My Solution: After reading that the ball joint (or press fit knuckle) was part of the draglink piece, I decided to modify the process suggested by rustyj14.I removed the ball joint, drilled out the end of the draglink, and used a quarter inch bolt to attach the end of the draglink to the steering bar.The picture at http://www.cyber-nook.com/MowerFix/SteeringFix.jpg shows this solution. I suspect the sheer forces on the quarter inch bolt are fairly strong and it may eventually break.There seems to be enough metal in the draglink to bore out a 5/16 or 3/8 inch hole and use a larger bolt.I did not remove the draglink to drill, and my hole is off-center – I suggest removing the draglink to drill it.
Around the base of the motor there should be small round cap about the size of a quarter with two small round quarter inch high posts on it - that is for finger leverage.. Unscrew it and tip the mower so all the oil comes out.. Replace oil and cap.
remove the blade plate under the mower, undo the plug which should have a quarter inch square hole in the end of it, use a quarter or half inch drive ratchet handle to remove the plug and drain the oil, replace in reverse order
I assume you've discovered the answer by now. At some point, some one has removed the crank. It is not turning far enough to open the vent fully. Just remove the crank and notice there is a locking pin on the side of the knurled knob near the windshield. With a pair of pliers (gently, don't bung up the knurls) rotate the knob until the vent is fully open; replace the crank and you're done.