Question about 2005 Harley Davidson FLHT - FLHTI Electra Glide Standard

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Clutch basket removal

Change out fiber plates in clutch basket .they have 91k miles on them

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • Harley Davidson Master
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Hi Anonymous, Enjoy

Posted on May 03, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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No it is a manual clutch on a apollo 110cc need to know what order to put the fibers and stills and and if there are two fibers and two stills thanks


It would be fibre/ metal/fibre/metal/fibre
You shouldn't have the same amount of plates ,always one less metal as the first and last fibre rub on the clutch basket or the pressure plate.

May 06, 2015 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Yamaha wr200 bike clutch fitment


take clutch case off , you then see the clutch basket and you need to remove the center plate with about 6 bolts , then remove the fiber coated plates along with metal plates .. then replace first a fiber coated plate followed by a metal plate then a fiber following this until all plates are in and a fiber plate is showing ! then replace the cover plate with 6 bolts , tighten all bolts then undo the center nut with the adjusting screw and back it off until there is slight free play on the clutch leaver as you pull it and then release! lock the nut up holding the screw and try ! soak fiber plates for an hour before installing also ! cheers

Dec 04, 2013 | Motorcycles

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Need to know how to install clutches.


I assume you mean clutch plates. Mount the outer clutch basket and the inner clutch hub then install a fiber plate, then a metal pressure plate, fiber, metal, fiber and so on. You should end up with a fiber plate. Some clutch sets have two fiber plates that are .005 thicker than the others. The thicker plate goes in as the first plate and the last plate. Please rate my answer. tombones49_4.gif

Mar 17, 2011 | kawasaki ZX-14 Motorcycles

1 Answer

How do you change a clutch on a 85cr


1) Release the pressure on the system by unhooking the clutch handle from the cable
2) Identify which side of the crank holds the clutch mechanism. Probably opposite the chain drive sprocket which means the clutch is on the right side as you sit on the bike. Spray off sand or grit that may fall into the works as the case cover comes off.
3) Drain the gear case oil
4) Remove the kick starter by removing the bolt holding the lever onto the starter shaft. Carefully, maybe with a impact driver screwdriver, loosen and remove the screws holding the round clutch cover from the engine crankcase. There are probably five, maybe seven, Phillips screwheads or maybe with ten mm hex heads. They will be different lengths so remember which holes each came from. I always replace screws with hex head bolts 'cause the screws can be a pain to remove.
5) Remove the clutch cover. You may need to remove the footpeg. there may be a steel ball bearing about 8mm diameter roll out of the center of the basket, so watch for it.
6) The clutch will be covered by a 'basket' held down by probably six bolts recessed into the basket.
7) As you remove the basket, you will find rings made of metal alternating with rings of fiber. Remove these, noting the order. If the metal rings are not blued or scratched, you can use them again. The fiber ones will need to be replaced, at about $7 each. Oil them and put new fiber rings back, starting with fiber and ending with fiber. I smear oil on the fiber plates before I put them in. You will see notches in the teeth at the edge of the fiber plates, and want to not line these up with each other.
8) Put the cover back, usually using a new gasket, or at least silicone. Leaks here make a mess and it's worth taking time to get it sealed.
9) Fill with amount of oil specified on the side of the crankcase. Make sure you use 'cycle oil, with MA rating. Auto oils will allow the clutch to slip, and make it burnout quicker.

Oct 28, 2010 | 2002 Honda CR 125 R

1 Answer

Hoe to know a defective disk plate


A clutch disc should be smooth on the surface, no groove cut into it by the friction plate. If you can catch a finger nail on it, it's bad.
The friction plates usually last longer than the discs, but if the discs are bad, replace the whole set. The fiber plates are bad if they look burnt or the fiber has worn down to the disc. If you have a slipping problem, chances are good that it's worn, but check your basket for wear. The tabs get grooved where the clutch plates ride on them!

Jun 29, 2009 | Honda CR 125 R Motorcycles

2 Answers

Bike stays in gear with clutch in


You are saying that with the clutch lever pulled in the bike still wants to go forward. Generally that is caused by dirty, gritty oil in the gearbox. Go ahead and change the oil. 10w40 motor oil is what you want. I think that will fix the problem assuming the clutch plates were installed properly. The first plate installed and the last plate installed should be a fiber friction plate, 8 plates total. A metal pressure plate goes between each fiber plate, 7 plates total.

Be sure the lever assembly arm is installed so that it gets full movement of the clutch cable. If the full range of movement is not present then full disengagement of the clutch is not going to happen.

cape cod bob did you a good service in the manual referral. Be sure to say thanks.

Apr 16, 2009 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 125

1 Answer

Need to change my clutch plates


Lay her on the left side, with the fuel OFF!!! Remove the clutch cover plate, remove the small bolts (5 or 6) for the outer clutch cover. Pull that cover out, and start pulling out plates, one at a time. Make sure you got all of them, as they stagger from metal (or aluminum) to fiber.Lay them out as they came out of the machine. Soak the new fiber plates in a good oil for a while before installing. Also make sure the "tangs" that the clutch plate ears ride on aren't grooved from wear. It it is bad here, you can file them down, unless it's really destroyed, then the basket needs to be replaced.
Reassemble in reverse order.

Apr 08, 2009 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Bike only starts in Neutral. Very jerky on pull off.


Chances are that you can save your money, most of it anyway. Change the gearbox oil, ( 10w40 ), then ride for 50 miles. Now change it again. This should flush out the dirt and grit in the clutch plates. Also, remove the gas tank and then replace the clutch cable. Cables just don't get lubrication often enough. Yours is probably really old. Now try the bike.

If you do change out the clutch, keep the basket. Unless you hit it with a hammer, the clutch hub should be perfectly fine. Just replace the fiber plates. Unless warped, the steel plates should be perfectly fine also.

Please rate this solution. (four diamonds would be nice ), Thanks!

Apr 06, 2009 | 2003 Suzuki RM 250

1 Answer

I have an rm125 and wen at full revs the bike begins 2 slip but if i use half revs its fine what could be the problem


If you mean the clutch begins to slip after half revs then chances are that the fiber clutch plates are worn. I suggest you get a set of fiber plates and install. Pull the right engine cover and remove the clutch end cap. Note the sequence of plates as you remove them. You will have fiber plates and steel plates. Is the first plate removed fiber or steel? If the first plate removed is fiber then the next is steel, then fiber, then steel, and so on. Install the new plates in the same fashion. So if you started with a fiber plate you need to end up with a fiber plate when the install is done.

Pleas rate this solution. Thanks!

Mar 26, 2009 | 2003 Suzuki VL 800 Volusia

1 Answer

Clutch basket


but it was not as deep as the original. Did the older bikes have a sallower basket. Mine is a 2005 and holds 8 fibers and 7 steel plates. I can't find any partd lists for the older bikes on the web. First a question. Are you using the original clutch fiber plates and friction disks or, did you get a new pack of plates and disks to go with the new basket. I'll explain my question below. The clutch on the 125 is sort of touchy. I tried various configurations, mainly using all steel drive plates, instead of the combination of steel and aluminum. I was only able to make it work properly using the OEM GG configuration. The 125 uses a different clutch than the larger bikes. (The 200's clutch basket has a different gear on the back, but otherwise it's clutch is the same as the larger bikes.) Make sure your replacement clutch disks & plates are not for the larger bikes. (I recently saw an ebay seller's auction that claimed to be a clutch rebuild kit for the GasGas bikes. It only had 7 friction disks. ) The original clutch for the 125 Gasser had a combination of aluminum and steel drive plates. The friction plates were all the same. The 2005 parts book lists them as being 3 iron disks and 4 aluminum disks. (In my memory, I thought it was 4 steel and 3 aluminum.) If you download and look at the parts book, http://www.gasgasmotos.es/rcs/manual...emotorec05.zip , the 125 clutch is on one of the last pages of the book. (page 48 of 50) BTW. I still have a new OEM GasGas 125 clutch pack in my stock; if anyone is interested. (side note: The clutch push rod for the 125 is only a few dollars. The clutch push rod for the larger bikes is in the $35 range.),,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2007 Gas Gas EC 125

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