Question about 2003 Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard

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Do you need to change the fork oil at 20000 miles, if so, what happens when I remove the fork nut at the top. Are the forks on my bike under pressure?

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Yes those springs will pop out at you, but usually they are easy to put back in. most harleys have a drain hole at the bottom. and yes the fluid change is due, byt he book, but you could wait untill you need the seals replaced.

Posted on Jun 14, 2009

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1 Answer

2007 HD Sportster 1200C - front right fork leaking fluid


The headline of your post seems to have it correct, you have a fork seal leaking. To replace the seal, you must remove the fork slider, the lower part of the fork tube to replace the seal and then refill the fork with the proper amount of the proper oil. Here's how you do it on a conventional front fork. This is not for an "inverted fork" where the top part is larger than the bottom.

Remove the front wheel, the caliper if it's on this side or you decide to do both sides. Loosen the pinch bolt on the back side of the lower triple tree. Remove the large nut on the top side of the upper triple tree. Caution: there is a large spring under the nut. Usually, if the bike is completely off the ground, the sping is almost fully extended but it will still have some pressure on it. Remove the spring and work the fork tube out of the triple trees. Turn the thing upside down and pour the oil out of it. Notice in the very bottom of the lower slider where the axle goes through, there is an 8mm hex head bolt. Using a brand new hex key, remove this bolt. A hex key socket on an air wrench helps to remove this bolt. It takes a "piloted key" but you can get it out with a regular one as long as it new and not rounded. Once the bolt is out, pull the top tube out of the lower tube. You'll see the oil seal in the top of the lower slider. Pull the seal out and replace it with a new one. Reassemble the entire assembly and install back into the triple trees. Add the proper amount of the proper weight oil. This is what is commonly called a "dry" fill since you took everything off and wiped it down. Then insert the spring tapered end first and put the large nut back on the top.

Then do the other side if you wish. Only do one side at the time. The remaining tube that is put together helps hold the tube you're working on extended.

Good Luck
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First of all do not add oil to your front forks with out draining them first. If you over fill your forks with oil you will damage your forks. To change your oil in your forks, first center stand the bike and lift the front wheel by putting a jack under the motor. Remove the front wheel and axle and put a pie tin under the fork tube. Reach up into the bottom of the fork tube with a hex key and loosen the screw but do not remove. Now take the air pressure cross over tube off, this will allow you to unscrew the fork tops( On some bikes you may have to put a towel on the tank and unbolt the handle bars to get them out of the way.). Pull the screws out of the bottom of the forks and gently pull down the oil should come out now. If you need new fork seals take the lower tubes off and replace(You may need to take off the fender and hang the calipers with wires.). Turn the lowers over and dump out the oil and reinstall fork lowers. Snug up screws and sealing washers on the bottom of forks you can not tighten till you put on fork tops. Now pour in measured amount of oil, again do not over fill. Put on fork tops and air crossover tube. Now tighten screws on bottom of fork. Finish reassembling bike.

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There should be a drain plug on the trailing side of the slider. Some have cross point screwdriver heads on the plug others have allen or hex head plugs. Remove the plug and work the forks up and down. If all fails, you can remove the entire tube and turn it upside down.

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How do i change fork seals on a Kawasaki gt 550 89' and or chec and add oil


Hi,

I was told by many people it was a hard job.
I didn't think so.

What you need is:
New Seals.
8mm Allen Key.
Half Inch Stocket bar AND Extender.
Extra Fine Sand Paper/Polishing Device.
Fork Oil + Measuring Jug.
Threaded Bar with a Two 19mm Nuts Locked to each other on one end.
Spanners.
Screw Drivers.

How to do:

First Get the Front end off the Ground (ALOT, Center Stand on Bricks for extra height.)

Remove Front Wheel and Brake Calipers.

Open Drain Philips Screw on Base of Fork (Both Sides). Dont Lose Rubber washer under screw. Watch Out Also for Oil Being under Pressure.

Remove Nut from TOP of Fork (Alowing Handles and mirrors to come loose).

From Top you can see down tube has Nut/Cap with a Square Half Inch center. Use Socket Bar (and Extender if needed) without Bit to Remove reach in and remove. Watchout for Spring Pressure under the Cap/Nut.

Use Screw Driver or Hook of some kind to remove Preload Spacers, Washers AND Spring from Fork.

Slide your Threaded Bar with19mm Nuts (Make sure they are Locked Tight together at one end) down into the Fork and let it catch on the Oil Damper at the base. You will know when it's cought because you wont be able to spin the threaded bar anymore. This will stop the Damper from spinning while you undo the Allen Bolt at the very base under the fork (Outside).

Use Allen Key to remove Bolt from Underside of Fork While having someone or somthing hold the Threaded Bar form spinning.

Now look at the Old bust/leaking Oil Seal. There will be a Clip/Locking Spring in a Groove holding it in place.

Remove Clip without Damaging any part of clip or fork.

If Everything above was Done, you can now give the slider( Bottom Part) a big tug and it will all come lose.

One Part of the Oil damper will either fall off, or be left in the slider(Bottom Part). It slides over the Damper in the base of the tube.

Clean Everything.

Clean Again.

Polish Tube.

Clean Again.

Remove Two Split Washers from base of Tube and Copper Washer. Remove Old Oil Seal.

Place New Oil Seal on Gently.

Replace back on Copper washer, followed by two split washers.

Use Grease as a kind of glue to hold the part of damper that fell off back on.

Slide Slider back onto Tube.

Screw Allen Bolt back into base of slider as per originally was (Remeber to hold Threaded Bar if it starts spinning)

Push Gently new Oil Seal into Fork Slider for Snug Fit. Be Gental.

Replace Clip/Spring over top of Oil Seal Locking it in place.

Remove your threaded bar from top of Fork.

Replace Spring into Fork.

Replace Philips Oil Drain Screw into base of fork (Dont forget Rubber washer).

Now: For a GT550 (I am told also KZ550 but can confirm) you need 300ml of 15 weight Fork Oil. EACH Fork. So a Total of 600ml whole Job. IN EACH SIDE YOU WILL ADD ONLY 300ml of FORK OIL. (15w)

After this. Replace any washers, Preload Spacers and so back into for.

Replace Cap/Nut into Fork Tube with Socket Wrench and Extender.

Replace Handles and Moirrors and Nut holding both of these.

Replace back onto bike the Front Wheel

Check Brake Calipers for leaks and Pad Wear. It's Very Cheap to get new Pads. Not cheap to have months off work after a crash.

Replace back onto bike Calipers.

Pushing Bike (Not ride) test Brakes and Suspension.

At This point I am thinking your done. You may need to Add Air Preload into the Fork via the Air Valve. 4PSI is a Starting Point. I have run upto 15psi. Without Air in the Preload you may find it too soft. Upto you.


Did I Forget Anything?


Sep 11, 2009 | 1992 kawasaki GT 750

1 Answer

Front fork oil seal replacement


General intructions for most bikes:

Remove front wheel. Loosen fork tube clamps at top and bottom of triple clamps. Slide fork tubes out and remove. Access to seals is from top of tube. Remove cover and unscrew cap. Shop manual for specific bike is $24-$30. Will show detailed instructions.

Good luck;
Techjoel

May 14, 2009 | 2001 kawasaki KDX 125

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