Back brakes replace back brakeas

You will need a special tool for the back brakes,Autozone will loan it to you for 60 bucks,you will get it back when you return,I used it.I replaced brake pads front and back and both back rotors.The driver side rear had metal on metal,all disc brakes,brake pads on that rear side were completely worn down to metal,the driver side was like new,kept wondering why,replaced both rear rotors,put back together,then then I noticed where brake line hose went into brake caliber was leaking,so that caused the side with new like brake pads not to be gripping disc putting all brake pressure of that one side,so the copper fitting their was bad,put new one on and leak stopped.

It may be a sticking brake caliper, worn brake pads or shoes. Probably needs a brake job. Take it for a ride on the highway and try not to use your brakea as much. If its still hot then its ba wheel bearings that is causing the heat. The bad wheel bearings will produce a low rumble sound when driving.

The ABS brain block is defective! Will have to be replaced. Big aluminum block with a lot of lines to it. =Usually down low under the master cyl.

Loosen the bleed ******* off 1 at a time , if no fluid comes out the nipple is blocked clean them or change them .

will try to help. 1st remove the wheel, then remove the 2 caliper bolts that hold the brake caliper on. after removal of brake caliper, [it should just pull off after the 2 bolts are removed] replace the brake pads[be sure to apply anti squeal lube to the outer side of the pads..not the pad itself,the one not contacting the brake rotor] install the pads, the you will need a C clamp to push the brake caliper pistons back into the caliper. i've used this installation easily. use the old pad ,place it against the caliper piston,then apply the C clamp and push the caliper piston back into the brake caliper, then the brake caliper will slide back over the new pads easily, no need to bleed the brakes if you use this solution. replace the brake caliper bolts, then go to next side and repeat the process. after the replacement of the front brake pads,pump the brakes with engine running!!! it's really a simple process. be sure the brake pads are facing the brake rotors with the [pads] facicing the rotors. no metal facing metal. easy! if you have added brake fluid recently, do not be alarmed if you see fluid coming out of the brake master cylinder,when you use the C clamp to collaspe the brake caliper back into the recessed position. [as always when you have to add brake fluid to the brake master cylinder,it only means your brakes are wearing naturally. if you have a vibration in front wheels or steering wheel when braking, you have a brake rotor or both front brake rotors that need replacement with your brakes also. hope this helps and as always, please get a second opinion if you have doubt. an expert will be happy to help. thank you for choosing fixya.com

YOU NEED REMOVE A LITTLE BRAKE FLUID FROM MASTER CYLINDER.THEN YOU RAISE VECHICLE SAFELY.SUPPORT IT WITH JACK STAND.MAKE SURE VECHICLE IS ON LEVEL SOLID GROUND.REMOVE TIRE OR WHEEL.THEN YOU NEED A LARGE C - CLAMP.PLACE C - CLAMP OVER BRAKE CALIPER AND BRAKE SHOE BACKING.TIGHTEN C - CLAMP JUST ENOUGH PUSH CALIPER PISTON BACK IN CYLINDER BORE TO REMOVE CALIPERS FROM ROTORS.TO REMOVE BRAKE CALIPER YOU NEED 2 OPEN AND BOX END WRENCHES ONE TO HOLD CALIPER SLIDE PINS AND THE OTHER WRENCH FOR LOOSEN CALIPER BOLTS.THEN YOU REMOVE CALIPER AND REPLACE FRONT BRAKE SHOES.IF YOU NEED TO REMOVE BRAKE ROTORS JUST REMOVE THE BRAKE CALIPER CARRIER SUPPORT BOLTS THE REMOVE THE BRAKE CALIPER CARRIER SUPPORT THEN REMOVE ROTOR.YOU NEED TO REPLACE BOLTS WITH NEWS AND USE LOCK TIGHT.THEN YOU PUT IN NEW BRAKE PADS IN CALIPER PUT CALIPER BACK ON SUPPORT CARRIER.REPLACE WITH NEW BOLTS USE LOCK TIGHT THEN TORQUE BOLTS TO 26 FT LBS.MAKE SURE MASTER CYLINDER COVER IN PLACE.WHEN YOU FINISH REPLACING BOTH FRONT BRAKE PADS PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SEAT BRAKE SHOES AGAINST BRAKE ROTORS SO YOU WILL HAVE FIRM BRAKES WHEN YOU APPLY THEM. THEN CHECK YOUR BRAKE FLUID LEVEL IN MASTER CYLINDER MAKE SURE ITS NOT LOW. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE FIRM BRAKES BEFORE DRIVING.IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEMS CHANGING FRONT BRAKE PADS YOU CAN GO TO ANY AUTO PARTS STORE AND BUY A HAYNES REPAIR MANUAL.

The problem lays with the Caliper itself and/or the brake hose connected to the Caliper.
However if you replaced the pads, did you also replace the Rotors or have them Turned? The old pads wear the rotor. New pads on old rotors that have not been replaced or turned may end with rubbing or stuck brakes.
A simple way to test whether it's one and/or the other:
1. Remove the Caliper from the rotor, remove the pads. Keep for now the caliper attached to the brake hose.
2. Very slowly push on the brake, exposing more of the piston out of the bore. Not all the way. Usually until the rubber dust seal/boot is fully extended.
3. Check the seal/boot for cracks and tears, and if clean or not. Bad seals may prevent the piston from re-seating.
4. Using a c-clamp and pushing straight in: Try repushing the Caliper Piston back into the Caliper Bore (the cup back into the hole). It should go back in realitively easy.
5. If it doesn't go back in easy: Again slowly pump the brake and re-push the pistons back out to full extended seal/boot (but not the piston out of the bore).
6. Detached the brake hose from the caliper.
7. Again using a c-clamp and pushing straight in: Try again to repush the caliper piston back into the bore without the hose attached. If it goes back-in relatively easy - the caliper is okay...it is the brake hose.
8. If the caliper piston does not go back in easily - Replace the caliper.
9. When Installing the new (reman) caliper, remember to bleed the brakes.
TRY EITHER OR #10 OR #11 BELOW:
After the new Caliper is reattached to hose and has been bled:
10. Again push on the brake petal to fully extend the caliper piston fully (rubber seal/boot fully extended) Again do not push the piston out of the bore! Try pushing the piston back into the bore. If it does not re-seat relatively easy: Replace the brake hose.
11. Another method: After replacing the new caliper back on the rotor: Assumng the entire front end (2WD front wheel drive) or entire vehicle (2WD rear wheel drive) or (4WD all the time) is jacked up off the ground
a. Put the lug nuts back on the rotor.
b. Have helper Start the vehicle and place in Drive. Don't step on gas!
c. Have then let off the brake and then engage the brake.
d. When they let off the brake watch to see if the Rotor is turning or not, if rubbing or not. Or if still sticking.
e. With a new caliper, turned or new rotors, and still a problem? It is the brake hose!
12. Replace the brake hose and try again.

Another method but more expensive:
OR Replace the calipers, brake hoses; bleed and test!

If this helped or not; or if you need additional help or have addtional questions let me know on fixya.com!

Try to use a large C clamp with one of the old pads on the caliper piston and the other end on the back side of the caliper body, and turn the clamp in to push the piston back. make sure the brake flex line is not pinched or kinked as it will not allow the fluid to flow back to the brake resovoir. The caliper may also be seized if these things dont work, then it will have to be replaced. Take it to a garage, since the brakes will have to be bleed after replacing the calipers, (If you replace one side recommend replacing the other side)

If the e brake is stuck the cables are likely bad anyways. Just cut the cables right at the back of the backing plates for the rear brakes. Then replace the cables if you really want to fix them. You regular brakes will still work fine.

there is a selenoid that unlocks the shifter it may be broke. you can also check your brake switch.