I have an 01 r6 my first bike, done over 400miles no problem, now when riding and engageing the clutch or stopped she wants to cut out so I have to keep revs up but then when pulling off she splutters and then all of a sudden comes back to life, shes fine going up ther gears.help appreciated and if anyone knows of a good no bull mechanic in cardiff area that would be brilliant, thanks
If the engine runs fine at mid-range and upper rpm levels, and barring a lot of aftermarket bolt-ons (new pipes, air pods, etc.) I would perform some simple solutions first. Fire up the bike and run the engine for just 3-4 seconds, then shut it off. Feel each one of the exhaust pipes. All of them should be equally warm. If not, you have isolated the problem to an individual cylinder. This misfiring of a single cylinder can be due to a plugged jet, a bad spark plug, or a bad coil. If the bike has been parked for a while, you can easily add a bottle of Sea Foam (about $9 at any automotive store) or equivalent to the gas tank and see if that helps. Sometimes it takes a few runs to clean out the very small idle jets. Secondly, pull the spark plugs and read them. This is a bit involved on the R6 as you will need to pull the tank and the heat shield beneath it. Be very careful as this bike has coil-over plugs. If your exhaust pipe test revealed one cylinder not firing well, choose that one first and see if the plug is wet, blackened or excessively worn. Replace as necessary. There is a specific test for the coil which I won't go into here, but these bikes generate a lot of heat and burying the coil into the head really stresses them. Finally, join the R6 forum and see what others have done to correct this. It is a common problem with this bike. My identical bike to yours had a bad coil. Yamaha R6 forum is community for R6 enthusiasts covering news and...
Yamaha R6 forum is community for R6 enthusiasts...
Yamaha R6 forum is community for R6...
Testimonial: "Thanks alot, many people have suggested same or similar things that could be wrong, will go get it serviced as iv only had it two weeks. Thanks again"
Sounds like your low speed idle is playing up this could be the computer playing up ,need a bit more info on the bike ,did the battery go flat at some time .you can try just disconnecting your battery then reconnecting it .but i would like a bit more info cheers pete
Testimonial: "Iv had it two weeks, travelled 200miles on it to get her home no problems, shes got17,500miles, iv been told by some friends with bikes that she smells a bit rich.she started playing up two days ago and has moments with no problems but then shell want to cut out and sometimes when pulling off she splutters asif shes going to stall so give it throttle and shel pull through. Its my first bike so everythings new, she pops too from the exhaust after going flat out high revs then shuting off, iv been told thats bad but there is an aftermarket exhaust and someone said it could be sucking air through but I havent a clue, thanks for all the imput guys much appreciated"
forgot I did run it near enough dead trying to start the bike so I bump started it the other day.
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SOURCE: Engine stalls when engage in any gear from neutral.
CHECK THE SIDE STAND SAFETY SWITCH IS OPERATING
SOURCE: R6 hesitation when starting out
Not often i see good questions like this. I would start with riching the carbs a bit. Another possible simple solution is to get your plugs check to make sure they are firing at full capacity, either one can cause the problems you have described. My first guess though would be the carbs, it sounds like the throttle is set a bit off to what it should be at. The fact that your bike runs fine otherwise also suggests this conclusion.
SOURCE: Engine cuts out with clutch engaged.
is your bjke water cooled could have aproblem with that-its gettin hot-if air cooled carb may neede cleaning. the clutch is ok but indicates to me that that carb needs a low speed jet adjust also-do u have a clymer manual!!
SOURCE: Running problems
I am not completely positive that this is your problem but one thing to try when it starts cutting out is to loosen the fuel cap. On a lot of 2000 through 2004 Harleys the vent in the fuel cap gets plugged up and creates a vacuum not allowing the fuel to flow to the carbs. If this doesn't help run the trouble codes to see if there is a ECM related problem. To access the codes, turn the ignition on for about 3 seconds (one second after the fuel pump stops running) and then turn the ignition off for 3 seconds. Repeat this, then turn the ignition on and the codes will flash on the check engine light after about 8 seconds. The first series of flashes (about 3 flashes per second) are intermission flashes then there will be a 2 second delay and the first code will flash. If the first digit of the code is 1 the light will flash one time and then there will be a 2 second pause before the second digit. There will be a 1 second delay between flashes for a digit of 2 or more. All codes are 2 digit codes. For example, 11 would be throttle position sensor, 12, barometric pressure sensor, 14 engine temperature sensor, 15 intake air temperature sensor, 16 battery voltage, 23 and 32 fuel injector, 24 and 25 ignition coil, 33 fuel pump relay, 52,53,54,55 ECM failure, 56 crank position and cam position sensor timing.
Hope this helps.
This problem affects all bikes the reason the bike stalls out when idling low or when the clutch is pulled in is because of Fuel/Air/Combustion ....
Wrong reasons
1. If it was the spark plugs the bike would run rough in all gears all the time
2. IF it was Fuel pump you would notice poor performance in all gears and sometimes the bike will not start depending if the pump is punched.
3. GUYS! It's not the kick stand, I see this answer all the time (makes me laugh)
4. It is not sensor issue ether because well if sensor is bad whole thing will not work
5. It is not the clutch cable, because the stall happens then clutch is engaged
SOLUTION
Throttle bodies / VALVES need to be adjusted and synchronized (BY Professional) Do not attempt to do yourself involves opening cam cover and messing with Springs/Valves
Explained what is happening inside your engine/heads
---- Your bike is so many years old and has say 20,000km on it...depending how hard the bike has been ridden in its life this may have to be done sooner... Your Valve operates on Rockers and Springs inside the Cylinder Head... Over time the springs become less springy this requires Shimming of sprigs or if you are lucky (price) simple screw adjustment... As you ride the valves are not closing all the way, you do not feel this because you are traveling at high enough RPM to keep the engine going ....as soon as you engage the clutch it Revs down to 1750RPM, and now that the Valves are not closed properly the combustion stops happening...Simply put your engine chokes its self out
MAJOR SIMPTOMS
1 BACK FIRE OF EXAUST (WHILE IN HI RPM) Sounds cool but not good for engine
2 CLICKING IN ENGINE - Almost sounds Valves are running with no oil (listen close you will hear)
3 NO TORQUE/HORSE POWER- When in good shape power wheelie is achievable at 5000-6000 RPM (on a 600cc)
This must be done for the following
Yamaha YZF R6 - 24,000km
Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki ----Not sure (I know for fact it's less 16,000ish)
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