My 06 hertage leaking gas out of the top when its full from under the center councel

Does it only do this when you have a full or near full tank? The O-ring on the fuel pump can crack over time which will do this when the tank is full or nearly full. You have a bad gasket or O-ring somewhere for sure.

You likely have oil sitting somewhere on your engine or exhaust. This isn't NECESSARILY from a leak, but where else is it going to come from? The coating of oil on a surface normally used to radiate heat will make it not cool quite as well.

To check for leaks, put a big ol' piece of cardboard under your car overnight/when you park it. Check it out in the morning.

Is this a top load? This could be the pump or a hose? do you have module # Is this a direct drive machine? how old is Unit? If it is a direct drive the councel has two screws in front corners of councel or are under the plastic trim? Councel gose back and there are two clamps and a lid switch to unhook cabinet can be removed bye pulling forwad from rear,look how this comes apart? you will be looking at the pump in front, or hose that coul;d be split or clamp broke?

Try looking under seat on top frame area. See if that helps

A 99 is most likely fuel injected, so the fuel pump is inside the gas tank. The gasket for this is a large O-ring in the top center of the tank and is unlikely to leak. Thus your leak is most likely in the line, put it up on a lift at a muffler or oil change place and look underneath for the wet spot which stinks of gas, that will lead you to the leaking spot. Gas tanks themselves can leak due to corrosion, this can be where road debris collects on top, and if you have a skid plate under the tank corrosion can build up between the plate and the tank eventually eating a hole in the tank.

Good Luck

If it is a sealed top, you will have to remove the cooking grates and center caps off the burners and set them aside. Unplug the stove. Each burner body has a numbers of screws holding it down to the top. Carefully remove the screws and unplug the ignition wire from each burner and set aside until all are free. Set them aside in an orderly fashion, so you know exactly which hole they go back to. The top is now free and should lift off with a little bit of effort. There are two fitted clamps in the front under the top, which will release the top with a snap, when you lift it up. You will not be able to completely remove the top, as it is still connected by wires in the back, so have someone hold it for you or prop it up to keep it out of your way. Use a soapy solution to check for leaks, which will bubble if a leak is found. Keep in mind, that you have removed the burners, so turning on the gas is pointless as it will just leak out the opening and make checking for leaks very difficult if not impossible. If you smell gas under the top, then you may have something visibly obvious, like a broken tubing or twisted and cracked tubing. If you can, without removing the top, you should be able to see the gas connection hooked up in the back, which is where you want to start checking for leaks before you even take the unit apart. Good luck.

Is this a older model whirlpool..Like a regular traditional topload. and you unscrewed the 2 screws holding the lid switch. If so, you need to unscrew the top councel. 2 screws on the back of the councel at the corners. unscrew, then flip top councel over. then youll see some clips holding the back panel to the whole cabnet. unclip the, with a flat head screwdriver and then the whole cabnet should come off..lift it a little and pull towrds you and you switch should be hanging under the cabnet somewhere if you look under the cabnet..like i said if this is the traditional top load washers....i would need a model number tho to see...but if it is jus put it back together how you took it apart and make sure you dont kink the clear hose when you put the cabnet back into place. Make sure the cabnet seats right on the frame at the bottom..hopefully this helps...

Its pretty simple...remove two screws from the top councel. They are located on each corner of the councel an the back. Youll see them. They are two Philip screws. Well, after you take those two screws out, slide the councel foward and it should be able to flip it backwards upside down. then you will see two metal clips on eack side of the washer, get a flat head screwdriver and pop them out and them pull the whole cabnet towards you. Its like basically a big shell thats coming off. makesure you disconnect the lid swich connector before you pull the cabnet towards you. youl see it. and the jus place the cabnet in an open area and go under it and replce the switch. just do the reverse to put it back together..make sure you set the cabnet properly when you put it back on the frame or else the clips will be hard to put back on and if you force it on and its not set properly you will have alot of vibration during operation. Also make sure you dont kink up the hose that goes to your pressure switch when you put the cabnet back on the frame, because the pressure switch wont sense the water pressure and will keep on filling the washer and then youll have a flooded room. so yea, i typed a lot but its simple but make sure its set right and the hose isnt kninked. hope that helps..hope this didnt put you alseep either...

take out the thermostat at your oil cooler

Is it a ticking or knocking noise? or does it sound like something is leaking could be a bad manifold gasket which would be better than a ticking or knocking.