Question about Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide Motorcycles
1990 FXR When I an riding easy my bike shifts perfectly up and down but when I'm riding hard and shift from third to fourth it will miss fourth as if to be in neutral but will let me go to fifth.All trans gears have been replaced but seems like the linkage going into the side of the casing has alot of play in it. Is there a bushing there that I'm not aware of?
Hi Anonymous, yes there is a bushing and seal there, but more than likely your shift lever is loose on the shaft. It takes a 3/16" allen try tightening it up. Good luck
Posted on Apr 23, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 03 YZ 250 won't shift into 3rd
You have a bent shift fork. The repair means removing the engine from the frame then tearing it down into about 75 parts which will then allow the bent shift fork to be replaced. This is not a job for the amature mechanic. Wish I were there with you to guide the repair.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
With the right side case removed, you will see the shifter shaft with an arm attached to the shaft and at the end of the arm will be a 1.5" long lever, ( called a "pawl" ), with a kind of hook on each inside end. There should also be a small spring attached to the lever. The lever should be engaged to a round shaft of about 1.5" diameter. The shaft I just mentioned is actually the end of the shift drum.
On rare occasions the spring will break or get out of place. Check it out. Another possibility is that the shift drum may have dropped a pin or two. The pins I refer to are what the pawl pushes or pulls on to rotate the shift drum. Move the foot shift lever up and down and you should see the mechanical action I'm referring to. IF I remember correctly, your bike has a drum that could allow a pin or pins to drop out if the end cap on the drum comes loose. No pins = no shifting.
Check things out and post a comment as to what you find out. Also, any other questions you may have after looking at the stuff mentioned. When all is done, please post a rating of my answer. Thanks.
Posted on Mar 17, 2009
You have a bent shift fork. The repair means taking the engine out of the frame then removing the top end, removing the flywheel and electrics, removing the clutch , shift mechanism and kick starter and a few other parts. THEN you are ready to split the gearbox to remove the crankshaft and then the bent shift fork. Next you get to put it all back together. This is a pretty big job for the home mechanic.
You will need an impact driver, flywheel puller, case splitter and torque wrench plus the normal screwdriver, pliers, etc.. Alternate to the special tools is taking it to the dealer and say "Fix it".
I normally tell people to take it to the shop just so they don't get into such an involved project.
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Posted on Apr 19, 2009
SOURCE: Trans hard to shift into neutral
One of two things is the problem, with one thing being a low cost to try and one thing being a high cost to repair. The low cost thing is the oil. I am assuming the oil hasn't been changed in a long time. Dirty and gritty oil can inhibit shifting. Change the gearbox oil and install a new oil filter. Use 10w40 motor oil and stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell. Avoid any special additives in the oil and do not use synthetics. The filter is at the front of the bottom casing. Ride the bike for 50 miles. Now drain the oil again and put in fresh oil ( and preferably another new oil filter ). This will flush out the dirt and grit in the engine.
If that does not solve the problem then you have a bent shift fork. The repair is major surgery on the engine. The engine gets removed from the frame then the bottom casing is removed to gain access to the gears. Then the gears and shafts are removed to gain access to the shift drum and shift forks. This is not a job for the novice mechanic.
Now would be a good time to have the shop do a tune-up on the bike. They should check and set the valves. Install new spark plugs and air filter, set the ignition timing and check the CDI for proper operation. They should also clean, syncronize and balance the carbs. Sync and balance them at least. Cleaning can be expensive and my general rule is " if is ain't broke, don't fix it ". By he way, don't try the sync and balance yourself. You will likely wind up taking it back to the dealer asking why it won't start and run good. Oh, and why is the engine backfiring?.
I hope I have not been too long in my solution and also that a bent shift fork is not the problem. Best wishes.
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Posted on May 31, 2009
SOURCE: will not shift down
This doesn't sound like bent shift forks. That is a very good thing. If the gearbox has to be opened you would be looking at $1500 to $2000. Checking and fixing it yourself as follows might cost you $20. A dealer would charge $100 to $200 or so. Remove the right side casing and then the clutch. I think you will find a broken gearshift return spring #13 or pin #14, gearshift drum stopper spring #10, or gear shift arm spring #12. Any of these parts can be supplied by Babbitt's.
Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx
Look at "GEARSHIFT DRUM" page. I sincerely hope I am correct in the diagnosis. The dealer route really hurts the wallet. Let me know what you find out.
Posted on Jun 12, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
1-2 Shift Solenoid Valve
3-4 Shift Valve Bore Plug
Burned, slipping, missing
4th Servo Cover
4th Servo Pin
4th Servo Piston
4th Servo Seals
Rolled, cut or damaged
Slipping or No Fourth Gear
Slipping or No Fourth Gear Checks
DEFINITION: A large engine RPM increase is noted in fourth gear, Drive range, with little or no vehicle forward speed increase. First, second, and third gear operation are normal. Shifts into fourth gear are soft or do not occur. Fourth gear ratio is 0.705:1.
Automatic Transmission Fluid Level
Low fluid level
Transmission Main Line Pressure
Low transmission main line pressure
Oil Filter Assembly
• The oil filter assembly (100) is missing, plugged, or damaged.
• The oil filter seal assembly (101) is missing or is damaged.
Control Valve Body Assembly
• The 3-4 shift valve (362) or the 4-3 manual downshift valve (360) is stuck or binding.
• Debris is found in the passages of the control valve body (301) or of the control valve body spacer plate and gasket assembly (396)
Case Cover Assembly
Distortion or damage occurs at the manual valve (404) or at the case cover (401), causing PRN oil leak.
Driven Sprocket Support Assembly
A plugged third clutch oil passage in the driven sprocket support assembly (609)
Fourth Clutch Assembly
• The clutch plates (500-502) are worn, damaged, or misassembled.
• A missing or not seated fourth clutch spring retaining ring (601)
• A damaged spring assembly (602) or piston (603)
• Worn or damaged fourth clutch piston seals (604, 605)
Third Clutch Sprag Assembly
• The sprag (720) was misassembled or backwards on the inner race (661).
• A damaged third clutch sprag assembly (653, 661, 719-721)
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