Question about 2003 Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide
Original problem sounded like the baffles were removed by the time I got home it was running rough and knocking, went out to restart later to see what was up started to smoke and knock loud. A friend thought cams said to check for metal in oil didn't find any, pulled the plugs, put it in 1st gear clutch engaged hard to push pistons appear to move correctly (not quite in unison) what next before I have to get into the engine?
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Rear Chains---RATTLE
5. Cam Chains---CLICKIT
8. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
11. Head Gasket---HISS
12. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
15. Rear Chains---RATTLE
16. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
18. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
19. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
20. Solid Lifters---TICK
22. Connecting Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Loud Knock coming from my 99 FXDX Help Harley Davidson Forums
Harley Davidson Dyna Glide Twin Cam 88 Service Manual
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Posted on Aug 09, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Rod bearing knocking
These procedures may be performed with the engine in the car. If additional overhaul work is to be performed, it will be easier if the engine is removed and mounted on an engine stand. Most stands allow the block to be rotated, giving easy access to both the top and bottom. These procedures require certain hand tools which may not be in your tool box. A cylinder ridge reamer, a numbered punch set, piston ring expander, snapring tools and piston installation tool (ring compressor) are all necessary for correct piston and rod repair. These tools are commonly available from retail tool suppliers; you may be able to rent them from larger automotive supply houses.
Remove any splash shield or rock guards which are in the way and remove the oil pan.
Using a numbered punch set, mark the cylinder number on each piston rod and bearing cap. Do this BEFORE loosening any bolts.
Loosen and remove the rod cap nuts and the rod caps. It will probably be necessary to tap the caps loose; do so with a small plastic mallet or other soft-faced tool. Keep the bearing insert with the cap when it is removed.
Use short pieces of hose to cover the bolt threads; this protects the bolt, the crankshaft and the cylinder walls during removal.
One piston will be at the lowest point in its cylinder. Cover the top of this piston with a rag. Examine the top area of the cylinder with your fingers, looking for a noticeable ridge around the cylinder. If any ridge is felt, it must be carefully removed by using the ridge reamer. Work with extreme care to avoid cutting too deeply.When the ridge is removed, carefully remove the rag and ALL the shavings from the cylinder. No metal cuttings may remain in the cylinder or the wall will be damaged when the piston is removed. A small magnet or an oil soaked rag can be helpful in removing the fine shavings.
After the cylinder is de-ridged, squirt a liberal coating of engine oil onto the cylinder walls until evenly coated. Carefully push the piston and rod assembly upwards from the bottom by using a wooden hammer handle on the bottom of the connecting rod.
The next lowest piston should be gently pushed downwards from above. This will cause the crankshaft to turn and relocate the other pistons as well. When the piston is in its lowest position, repeat the steps used for the first piston. Repeat the procedure for each of the remaining pistons.
When all the pistons are removed, clean the block and cylinder walls thoroughly with solvent.
Posted on Sep 30, 2008
SOURCE: Engine Knock on a 98 Isuzu Rodeo
Most likely it is a rod bearing and motor would have to be dissassembled to diagnose, you might want think about installing a low milege used replacment since it was run 5 quarts low on motor oil.
Posted on Nov 30, 2008
SOURCE: timing problem
hi idont believe that you have piston to valve problems as the valves would simply bend, this would then reduce your compression and your m/c would not run correctly .
wot you may be suffering from is just large valve clearance or worn camshaft and or valve gear,however this must be investigated further
hope this is of help ian
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
SOURCE: engine locked up
no use changhing the piston / rings / sleeve .,you need to split the engine and replace the crankshaft and con rod bearings.although renew the piston kit complete..
Posted on Jan 27, 2009
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