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I have an Electra Gas Chopper and the battery terminals go swtched so now i have no electric at all. i purchased a new battery, solenoid, relay, and key ignition. can someone please provide my a wiring diagram or ignition diagram. basically any information on this problem would be really helpful.

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  • Motorcycles Master
  • 8,404 Answers

You may have serious electrical damage if you wired the battery in backwards. Typically, + is the hot or red wire and black goes to ground AKA - . If this is how you now have it and the battery is good, you need to take your motorcycle to a professional for repair.

Posted on Feb 21, 2014

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SOURCE: need diagram for harley evo ignition diagram

join ,,, its free ,,,, they have a searchable database of all the wiring diagrams you'll need plus the members help when u run into problems

Posted on Apr 29, 2009

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SOURCE: can't get any spark on rear left ignition coil

I didn't notice the year of the bike but
the orange wire comes directly from your TCI ignitor unit.
It might be a faulty pickup coil or the ignitor unit itself.
the pickup coils are in the right engine case and
have about 110 ohms resistance.
If there is no ohms reading on the pickup coil then
it is faulty.
If the pickup pulse coils are good then your
main ignitor unit is probably faulty.
Sometimes the solder joints can crack in them.

Posted on Aug 22, 2009

Testimonial: "thanks for the info, i will ckeck this out "

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SOURCE: bike wont start replace start solenoid.when

You didn't mention what year model your bike is so I'll just generalize my response. Since you said that you replaced the solenoid, I'll assume that your bike is a 1988 model or earlier.

Your bike has a starter relay if it still has the stock wiring on it. Harley has used a starter relay since 1965 on the first model of ElectraGlide. Usually, it's underneath the battery tray or the seat or around that area.

On the back of your solenoid, you have three wire connections. Two very large connectors and one small connector. Make sure your bike is out of gear (in neutral) and use an old screwdriver to short between the large connector that comes from the battery and the small wire connection. The starter should engage and try to start the engine. If the ignition switch is on, it will start the engine. The starter will turn using this method with or without the switch being in the "on" position. If the starter works using this method, the problem is in either the relay or the neutral switch. If the starter does not turn the engine over, the problem is in the solenoid.

Now, let's check a few things. The small connector on the back of the solenoid should have a green or pink (depending on year) wire on it. Using a voltmeter or a test light, make sure you have voltage at the connector when you press the starter button with the switch in the "ON' position. If not, follow the wire to it's source, the relay.

The starter relay can be one of several different designs used throughout the years. It could be a small plastic cube, a small metal can, or a round phonelic relay. The relay should have four connections on it. A "hot" wire, a wire from the handlebar switch, the wire going to the starter, and a ground. The ground may be through the case itself. On the older Shovelhead bikes (1984 and earlier) there was a small short black wire that ran from the starter relay to the transmission for the ground. This wire must be intact or the relay would not work due to lack of a ground.

When you turn the switch on, one of the wires to the starter relay should become "hot". When you press the start button, you should hear a slight click and another of the smaller wires should now be "hot" as well, the one going to the starter.

On some year (1972 and later) models, the neutral switch was wired in with the starter relay. This was to prevent the bike from starting while "in gear" by disabling the relay. You'll have to figure this one out for yourself since I don't know what year model your bike is.

Now, you said you had power to the solenoid when you pushed the starter switch. So, let's assume that the starter failed the first test to told you aboue. If so, the problem is still most likely in the solenoid. Inside the solenoid, there is a large plunger with a copper disc on it. When you depress the starter switch, the coil in the solenoid becomes magnetized and pulls the plunger towards the back of the solenoid. This does two things, it engages the starter drive with the ring gear on the outer clutch drum and makes a high current electrical connection. The copper disc makes contact between the two large connections on the back of the solenoid from the inside. This connects the battery to the starter motor through the solenoid. If the black phonelic plate on the back of the solenoid is cracked or the contacts inside of it are badly burned, it will not work.

Now, if the solenoid is working correctly and you are getting voltage to your starter, it could be the brushes or something inside the starter. This is indicated if the starter trys to turn the engine over but just can't. It won't have enough power if the starter field windings are bad.

I hope I've given you something here that will help you solve your problem. This is basically the electrical part of the starter system. There are mechanical parts as well. If you hear the starter turning but the engine doesn't turn over, you have a mechanical problem. You can either repost or you can contact me directly at I'll help if I can. Good Luck!

Posted on Nov 05, 2009

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I have a 07 auto glide chopper bike will not start brand new battery no lights no click no power at all any ideas thx

Hi, Mark and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Bank angle sensor tripped and ignition/light key switch not cycled to the "OFF" position and then back to the "ON" position.
5. Security alarm needs a reset.
6. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
7. Faulty starter button.
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You'll need to wire in a starter relay. The relay has three terminals. One terminal connects to the battery, one connects to the starter button, and the other connects to the small terminal on the starter solenoid.

On the starter solenoid, the long post connects to the postive post of the battery, the shorter post connects to the starter motor, and the smaller center go to the starter relay.

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Please see my tip at .

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I have changed the battery the relay abd rebuilt the solenoid and it still wont start , the starter has been bench tested and it came out good , all it does is make the relay click

You seam to have done most checks,but you dont mention checking the fuses,allso make sure your earth wire from the battery is making a good contact. are you positive the engine turns over, try putting it in first and push starting it with the spark plugs removed the rear wheel should turn quite easily.

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1 Answer

98 dodge caravan won't star intermittenty

1. Check the Battery Terminal Post connections. Use a Battery Brush to clean (both the terminal post as well as the connecting rings) and make sure they are tight. If one is already loose dirty (not shiny metal) then it could cause intermitten non-starts.
2. Check the Starter Relay located in the IPM (fuse box) located in the engine compartment. The cover has the what relay is what. Relays that are the same can be switched and the functions checked. For example: the Rear Blower Relay is (should be the same as the Starter Relay. If the Rear Blower works (all the time) switch the Rear Blower Relay and Starter Relay. Check the Rear Blower several times (on and off). Check the Starter several times (on and off). If the Rear Blower works only intermittently and the Starter works all the time now, replace the bad relay. Don't switch back until you obtain a new relay.
3. I could also be the connections to the Starter Solenoid that have become loose or corroded.
4. It could also be the Starter Solenoid or the Starter Motor. If it is the Solenoid: with a partner-short jump (with a short-well insulated wire) the positive connection from the solenoid (small cylindrical body) to the starter body (large cylindrical body while your part turns the ignition to start. If it starts right-up, then the solenoid is bad.
5. You cannot (normaly) replace just the solenoid. Purchase a new or remanufactured Starter (which comes complete with the Solenoid) and replace the old Starter.
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