Question about Motorcycles
You may have serious electrical damage if you wired the battery in backwards. Typically, + is the hot or red wire and black goes to ground AKA - . If this is how you now have it and the battery is good, you need to take your motorcycle to a professional for repair.
Posted on Feb 21, 2014
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
join www.chopperweb.net/ ,,, its free ,,,, they have a searchable database of all the wiring diagrams you'll need plus the members help when u run into problems
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
I didn't notice the year of the bike but
the orange wire comes directly from your TCI ignitor unit.
It might be a faulty pickup coil or the ignitor unit itself.
the pickup coils are in the right engine case and
have about 110 ohms resistance.
If there is no ohms reading on the pickup coil then
it is faulty.
If the pickup pulse coils are good then your
main ignitor unit is probably faulty.
Sometimes the solder joints can crack in them.
Posted on Aug 22, 2009
Testimonial: "thanks for the info, i will ckeck this out "
You didn't mention what year model your bike is so I'll just generalize my response. Since you said that you replaced the solenoid, I'll assume that your bike is a 1988 model or earlier.
Your bike has a starter relay if it still has the stock wiring on it. Harley has used a starter relay since 1965 on the first model of ElectraGlide. Usually, it's underneath the battery tray or the seat or around that area.
On the back of your solenoid, you have three wire connections. Two very large connectors and one small connector. Make sure your bike is out of gear (in neutral) and use an old screwdriver to short between the large connector that comes from the battery and the small wire connection. The starter should engage and try to start the engine. If the ignition switch is on, it will start the engine. The starter will turn using this method with or without the switch being in the "on" position. If the starter works using this method, the problem is in either the relay or the neutral switch. If the starter does not turn the engine over, the problem is in the solenoid.
Now, let's check a few things. The small connector on the back of the solenoid should have a green or pink (depending on year) wire on it. Using a voltmeter or a test light, make sure you have voltage at the connector when you press the starter button with the switch in the "ON' position. If not, follow the wire to it's source, the relay.
The starter relay can be one of several different designs used throughout the years. It could be a small plastic cube, a small metal can, or a round phonelic relay. The relay should have four connections on it. A "hot" wire, a wire from the handlebar switch, the wire going to the starter, and a ground. The ground may be through the case itself. On the older Shovelhead bikes (1984 and earlier) there was a small short black wire that ran from the starter relay to the transmission for the ground. This wire must be intact or the relay would not work due to lack of a ground.
When you turn the switch on, one of the wires to the starter relay should become "hot". When you press the start button, you should hear a slight click and another of the smaller wires should now be "hot" as well, the one going to the starter.
On some year (1972 and later) models, the neutral switch was wired in with the starter relay. This was to prevent the bike from starting while "in gear" by disabling the relay. You'll have to figure this one out for yourself since I don't know what year model your bike is.
Now, you said you had power to the solenoid when you pushed the starter switch. So, let's assume that the starter failed the first test to told you aboue. If so, the problem is still most likely in the solenoid. Inside the solenoid, there is a large plunger with a copper disc on it. When you depress the starter switch, the coil in the solenoid becomes magnetized and pulls the plunger towards the back of the solenoid. This does two things, it engages the starter drive with the ring gear on the outer clutch drum and makes a high current electrical connection. The copper disc makes contact between the two large connections on the back of the solenoid from the inside. This connects the battery to the starter motor through the solenoid. If the black phonelic plate on the back of the solenoid is cracked or the contacts inside of it are badly burned, it will not work.
Now, if the solenoid is working correctly and you are getting voltage to your starter, it could be the brushes or something inside the starter. This is indicated if the starter trys to turn the engine over but just can't. It won't have enough power if the starter field windings are bad.
I hope I've given you something here that will help you solve your problem. This is basically the electrical part of the starter system. There are mechanical parts as well. If you hear the starter turning but the engine doesn't turn over, you have a mechanical problem. You can either repost or you can contact me directly at email@example.com I'll help if I can. Good Luck!
Posted on Nov 05, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 11, 2015 | Power Motorcycles
Mar 11, 2015 | 1998 Ford Ranger
Oct 24, 2010 | 2003 Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard
Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6222268-engine_doesnt_crank_turn_over .
Oct 13, 2010 | 1989 Buick Electra
Mar 12, 2010 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLHTC Electra Glide...
Nov 24, 2009 | 1998 Dodge Caravan
Mar 28, 2009 | 2000 Audi A6
Jan 21, 2009 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLHTC Electra Glide...
Sep 23, 2017 | Motorcycles
122 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!