Question about Yamaha YZF-R1 Motorcycles

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Battery voltage drop

2002 r1 bike wont crank over. replaced battery stator and rectifer all at same time. will start , but when stop and try to restart wont crank over. battery is over 13, but when trying to start drops to about 9. once the bike start is everything is fine. bike running has over 14.4v just having problems with intial start up , like battery is dead. but not.

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  • 333 Answers

Sounds like the starter motor itself. Does the engine turn at all when you try to crank it?

Posted on Feb 15, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Motorcycle won't start! Cranks but won't start up

does it have spark??

Posted on Jan 14, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: R1 start problem

I had the same problem. After throwing all kinds of money at it, like a new battery, new relay, checking the fuses and many other things. I finally took it to a great shop (M Racing in Glendora, CA) and they discovered it was the starter brushes. Now Yamaha sells a rebuild kit for the 06 R1 starters but it's on back order all the way to Japan. Turns out Yamaha Japan knows about this defect and word is it's going to take months before they start producing the rebuild kit again. I'm sure there will not be a "starter recall" as that would cost Yamaha way to much money which is what the worlds all about, right? Anyway, my starter was rebuilt by a mechanic that rebuilds starters and I haven't had no problems with it. Hope this helps and whatever you do, don't take your bike to Montclair Yamaha. Dealerships charge way to much money and don't get the service or quility of work we all deserve.
Be Safe!!!!

Posted on Apr 16, 2009

  • 850 Answers

SOURCE: I think I have a bad stator on my 2002Harley Dyna

too many variables !
Firstly check battery under load ! any battery place or auto electrician can so it usually free!
do this before replacing any thing else!
make sure all connections are clean & tight
if battery is ok get them to check the charge rate on bike! its a simple test or you can do it with a volt meter they are only cheap to buy!

Posted on Jul 18, 2009

  • 221 Answers

SOURCE: wire connector between stator & voltage reg/rectifier burnt

your voltage/reg. can be tested in a couple different ways check ground res. check res. then revs. bias on diodes you have ac in dc out it sounds like you may have a diode gone bad allowing ac curent to flow causing the wires to get hot

Posted on Jul 31, 2009

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1 Answer

YZF R1 YAMAHA WON'T HOLD CHARGE


Hi Anonymous perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your multimeter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe multimeter for a drop in amperage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
5. Hook up the multimeter to the battery set it to DC volts and start the engine if multimeter falls below 9.0 volts while cranking you need to perform a proper load test on the battery and replace if necessary.
6. With the engine running at 3600 RPM, the battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
7. Unplug the voltage regulator from the alternator at crankcase by the front of the primary cover.
8. To test voltage regulator go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
9. With the multimeter set to the ohms scale, with one lead grounded, touch an alternator pin ohmmeter should read infinity, if not replace the stator.
10. With both leads touching alternator pins multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace the stator.
11. With the multimeter set on AC volts scale, both leads touching alternator pins multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace the rotor.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
bike wont hold charge killed new battery Yamaha R1 Forum YZF R1 Forums
Battery won stay charged on R1
http://www.journey.cz/moto/navody/Yamaha%20YZF-R1%2002%20Service%20Manual.pdf
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://www.motor-talk.de/forum/aktion/Attachment.html?attachmentId=739673

May 09, 2014 | Yamaha YZF-R1 Motorcycles

1 Answer

Start no electrical, bike died like the key was shut off. No electrical what so ever


battery flat if voltage regulater faulty it wont charge the battery

Jul 20, 2013 | 2000 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

I have 02 yamaha r1 it wont start it just click under the seat it wont push crank


Hi, Anonymous it should be noted that in order to "PROPERLY" diagnosis any electric starter issue it is "IMPERATIVE" that you begin with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper load test, and the usual suspects are:
1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
2. Battery cables faulty due corroded or broken internal wiring at the cable connector especially the "NEGATIVE" cable which needs to be checked at "BOTH" ends.
3. Battery voltage, 12.5 volts or better,to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid has dropped more than 1/2 volt.
4. With a voltmeter connected to the battery, the ignition switch in the on position, the kill switch in the run position, the starter button depressed, starter engagement should not bring voltage below 8-9 volts.
If a lower voltage is produced a proper battery load test should be performed with a load tester to validate battery integrity or battery replacement.
5. Faulty starter relay, check continuity.
6. Faulty starter solenoid, check contact plate and shoes for excessive electrical erosion/etching, refurbish as necessary or invert contact plate and use the virgin backside. Check contact shoes for being loose. Replace solenoid if the negative function is still a final outcome.
7. Faulty starter, bench test starter with a 12-volt battery if negative function check, decontaminate and undercut armature commutator segments as necessary, check segments with an ohmmeter probe each one and the segment next to it for shorts. Have the armature tested with a growler and field coils, and brush plate with an ohm-meter for opens, shorts or grounds. Replace brushes if less than .438" It is generally cheaper to overhaul/refurbish a starter motor than buy a new one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/102-00-01-r1-mechanical-help/39482-bike-wont-start-clicking-sound-under-seat.html
Won start just clicks but can push start Jumping relay doesn start it
https://r1videos.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/2002-2003-yamaha-r1-service-manual.pdf
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Aug 05, 2012 | 2002 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

2001 YZF R1 WONT HOLD CHARGE REPLACED REGULATOR AND STATOR HAS NEW BATTERY WHAT COULD BE MY PROBLEM


Hi, Anonymous in order to check out any main electrical system, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector with the engine running !!!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is "GROUNDED" and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty rotor, follow step 6
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/103-02-03-r1-mechanical-help/185605-battery-stator-rectifier-regulator-issue.html
HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR...
2000 2001 Yamaha YZF R1 Service Manual R1 Moto Data Project
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Mar 23, 2012 | 2001 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

2001 yamaha yzf r1 i installed a new battery. it does not stay charged and the bike stalls. Noticed the red wire to the rectifier and regulator assembly over heated trying to find the main source of the...


Hi, Gobrickconst in order to check out any main electrical system, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector with the engine running !!!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is "GROUNDED" and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty rotor, follow step 6
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
bike wont hold charge killed new battery Yamaha R1 Forum YZF R1 Forums
2007 2008 Yamaha r1 STATOR FAULT not charging Regulator Rectifier location...
https://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
1999 2002 Yamaha YZF R6 Service Manual R6 Moto Data Project
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Apr 24, 2011 | 2001 Yamaha YZF-R6

2 Answers

Good evening sir, I have yamaha R1 bike. in bike yesterday battery discharge than charge the battery. today bike start and running but after .5 miles bike is stop running, self is not running and battery...


1998 to 2002 have problem with plug to voltage regulator/rectifier which is under seat. connectors in plug overheat and bike stops charging the battery. you will see if connectors have been hot and will need to be replaced if they have.
once replaced check bike charging with multimeter at battery,should make 13.5 - to 14.5 volts just above idle. if not will need to test stator and regulator.

Aug 11, 2010 | Yamaha YZF-R1 Motorcycles

1 Answer

New stator cover bike wont start


useing a multimeter set to d.c check your charge at the battery whith out the motor running it should read above 12 volts determine the voltage stored in the battery with the meter stil conected hit the start button if the meter shows a dramatic drop in voltage its almost certain that the battery is shot howevwer if the voltage does not drop & it wont start bump start it conect the meter still set on dc increase the revs asyou do this the voltage should climb to 13.50 if it does & maintains 13.50 to 13.65 the chargeing system can be declared ok & you only need replace the battery however if it goes above 14 volts the voltage regulator is faulty & cooking the battery so you will need to replace both

Apr 14, 2010 | 1998 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja

2 Answers

How to test rectifier.


there are several ways to test a rectifer the quckest way to check if it is working properly is with a voltmeter first check ground resistance one lead to good known ground (battery neg.) the other to rectifer should be 1 ohm or less.Then hook meter to battery and start the bike and check and watch battery voltage should start to increase after a minute or so check at 2000 rpm again increase if it does not check stator if stator passes replace rectifier

Mar 01, 2010 | 2002 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic

2 Answers

My battery wont charge and I just bought it


Hi and welcome to FixYA,

Two possibilities:
  • rectifier / regulator combo (most likely);
  • corroded, burned, loose connection from the stator to the regulator (likely);
  • faulty stator (least likely).
The stator would be producing relatively high AC voltage while revving the bike. The stator output AC voltage are fed to the rectifier / regulator through 3 white wires. Check calls for testiing for the presence of the AC voltage on any pairing of the white wires before and after the connector before the voltage regulator. Check on the regulator calls for checking the battery voltage when revving the bike (14.5 VDC).

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Jan 04, 2010 | 2002 Yamaha YZF Thunder ace 1000 R

2 Answers

Battery wont hold a charge. put new battery same problem. when i recharge it battery is drained after roughly 5 starts.


stator needs to be replaced, works just like a alternator, if you ever banged it or dropped the bike then you have a busted stator. easy to fix but might run you about $70-$90 bucks for a new one.

Sep 11, 2009 | 2000 Honda CBR 929 RR Fireblade

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