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There isn't one. There is for the A/C compressor and blower though. The blower is controlled by the resistor. The resistor can blow low speeds or high speeds, some cut out. The resistor is bad. If you have no blower. Unplug it and add power and ground to it. If it blows high. Look to replace the resistor. It takes diagnostics to see if the controller/ dash gauges/knobs is bad.
For a 2008 Touring bike with the ignition switch turned to IGNITION the fuel gauge is connected to +12 volts. Current flows through the gauge and the variable resistor in the fuel gauge sending unit to ground. The sending unit float controls the amount of resistance in the variable resistor. Inoperative gauges may be caused by several different circumstances: the sender or fuel gauge may not properly or sufficiently grounded; there may be a malfunction in the sender or in the fuel gauge; there may be a broken or disconnected wire from the ignition switch to the fuel gauge; there may be corroded connections at the fuel gauge.
Test the fuel gauge system by FIRST removing the gauge, THEN ground the fuel gauge sender Y/W wire located at the bottom of the gauge, turn the ignition switch to IGNITION and the fuel gauge must indicate FULL in which case it is functioning correctly in which case set a multimeter to the RXI scale and measure the resistance of the sending unit by placing one probe on (Y/W) and the other probe on the motorcycle ground or bare chassis point as a ground. If the fuel tank is full the reading should be 30-50 ohms while an empty tank should have a 240-260 ohm resistance value and a half full tank will be approximately 125-165 ohms. If a very high resistance or infinity is indicated on the meter, the sender may be "open" or not grounded. Check that the sender and the fuel tank are both grounded by placing one probe of a Multi-Meter on the sender flange and the other probe on the engine crankcase. The meter then must indicate one ohm or less. Replace the sender if one ohm or less was present and if a higher resistance is present, check for a poor connection on the ground wire.
If when the gauge did not indicate FULL when the fuel gauge sender Y/W wire was grounded with the ignition switch at IGNITION check the voltage to the (O/W) (+) and (BK) (-) wires of the fuel gauge connector and a correct reading will be equivalent to battery voltage. If battery voltage is not present check for a broken or disconnected wire. Replace gauge if wiring problem is not foun
Since they blew one fuse, it is possible they blew others as well. There is a 7.5A fuse that I believe powers the 4WD control module. It is in the instrument panel junction box cowl on the left. There is also a 10 amp fuse for the module ECU-IG1. It is located in the same box as the other fuse. I would check those 2. One other fuse I would check is the other 7.5A for the gauge related to the 4WD on the cluster, but I guess that is working since it appears on the cluster.
the fan resistor is located by the blower motor. on a 2002 and newer there is about 6 or so wires on a thin flat plug. pretty close to it. I believe it is under a little cover. I know this might not be much help but it has been about 3 years since I replaced one. I do know the wires on the plug I described earlier will melt the plug sometimes, and the control head will go bad too sometimes so it could be any of these things. so dont get aggrivated if the resistor doesnt fixit although it might.
The convergence IC or in a sense ,amplifiers and the resistor are output resistors... if they are burning up the current going through them is spiking too high... TO me this is an indication that the "convegence yokes" are shorted. These are coils around the tubes that control convergence. I would suspect maybe that these are shorted to ground somehow. This is my first guess for this problem