Question about Harley Davidson Motorcycles

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How to adjust rear brake on 02 dyna super glide

Rear pads are good just seem to have to mash the brake pedal down way to far for my taste on forward controls. is there any way to snug it up?

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 40,842 Answers

Hi Anonymous, it's not uncommon for the linkage in forward controls to flex on rear brake pedal pressure causing it to travel more. You can try pressure bleeding the system for abnormally trapped air. Good luck

Posted on May 07, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2336 Answers

SOURCE: replace rear brake pads

Remove right saddlebag, pull the two caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper. Do not open bleeder or disconnect line. You will need to push a large screwdriver between the old pads before removing them in order to push the pucks back into the caliper or the new pads will not spread enough to reinstall. Then pull the two smaller bolts from the caliper and the pads will fall out. The pads are different for inside and outside, so pay attention, and remember, after reinstalling, before riding, be sure to pump brake pedal, and it may take a few stops before brakes stop as effectively as before.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

Mitchy123
  • 216 Answers

SOURCE: how to change battery on 2001 dyna super glide

heres how its done
remove the seat , then battery neg. cable at frame, positive at terminal, then feel around the outside of the box - there is a rear lower bolt and an upper bolt - - this will cause the battery tray to swing down when they are removed. Orient the new battery same as the old one... reverse the process..... thats it

Posted on Mar 23, 2009

  • 33 Answers

SOURCE: oil change

go to fixmyhog.com and purchase the fix my hog dvd for softail/dynas. it shows complete video for all the general harley maintenance. it's worth it's weight in gold for all the money it has saved me in doing my own maintenance on my 05 fxd. i have mantained my scoot since it was brand new. 29,00 mles later, it still runs great !

Posted on Mar 25, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: 02 DYNA WIDE GLIDE WON'T IDLE UNLESS CHOKE IS OUT.

Sounds like you've got a vacuum leak somewhere. Either your intake seals or the carb seal is leaking air. Have you replaced the air filter housing? On the Evolution and later engines, the carb is designed as a "spigot seal" type carb. In other words, it just pushes into a seal instead of bolting on like the older carbs did. This means that the carb has to be aligned correctly or an air leak can occur around the seal. The air filter assembly is what holds the carb. into the seal and aligns the carb.

If you haven't messed with the air filter assembly there is one other thing that I've seen cause this problem. Your bike has two vacuum operated devices on it. One is the VOES switch and the other is the fuel petcock. The VOES switch is part of th igniton system and the petcock is the fuel valve on the fuel tank. The vacuum comes from either the carb or the intake manifold and is routed to the devices by a vacuum hose. Make sure this hose in connected to all three locations and has no holes in it. The vacuum hose to the petcock is on the backside of the petcock and the VOES is located on the bottom of the frame top tube under the fuel tank near the carb.

I have seen the vacuum operated petcock cause a vacuum leak in at least one occasion. Normally, when they go bad they just shut the fuel off to the carb and the engine won't run. But, I did have one that caused a severe vacuum leak and the bike acted exactly like you're describing. I took the petcock out of the tank. Drain the fuel first, not easy to do with the petcock being vacuum operated. I got a large funnel and held it under the petcock while I slowly unscrewed it. Once you have the petcock out, you'll see four small screws on the back side of it where the vacuum hose connects. Remove the screws and check the diagraphm behind the plate. Be careful, there is a small spring behind the plate. Take the petcock apart carefully so you can remember how to properly reassemble it.

Personally, I would eliminate the vacuum operated petcock and replace it with a high quality manual operated petcock. Like I said earlier, if they malfunction they usually shut the fuel off to the engine. There you are, a full tank of fuel but none to the engine. I'd replace it with an original Harley unit for a 1995 or earlier bike or a high quality aftermarket unit like a Pingle.

You need to find this problem before you ride the bike too much. The lean mixture resulting from a vacuum leak will cause the engine to run very hot.

Posted on Oct 20, 2009

DJ_MAX1369
  • 119 Answers

SOURCE: how to change oil in 2003 HD FXD Dyna Super Glide

remove the drain plug from the oil pan, you will need either a 3/4" box wrench or a 5/8" box wrench and the drain plug will be facing forward on the the oil pan. It is easiest to remove this drain plug from under the right side of the bike. put drain plug back in after about 10 m,inutes of drain time and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. Dont forget to change the oil filter as well.

Posted on Oct 28, 2009

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2 Answers

When i mash brake pedal,the stearing wheel pulls to the right and makes a wining noise in fire wall.as well sitting still, truck running,when i mash the brake pedal and try to turn the stearing it s h


If you replaced the Brake line on the left and it's pulling to the right you may need to replace that brake line as well. As far as sitting still, that sounds like the power steering pump.

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I have a 2000 1.8 turboVW beetle replaced the front calipers and a rear drivers side caliper that appeared to be locked up, bled the brakes all around go to mash on the brakes and the pedal feels real hard...


If you replaced the pads and used metallic pads, they do have a brake-in period. if you do all four at once this can be a bit unnerving when stopping the first few times. If indeed this is what is happening, 2 or 3 40mph panic stops on and unpopulated street should heat them up and solve the problem. Also, if you were under the hood messing around, make sure you didn't knock the vacuum hose to the power brake booster off.

Aug 17, 2011 | 2000 Volkswagen Beetle

1 Answer

I need instructions for replacing the rear brakes on a 2000 Harley Davidson Road King Classic


Spray some brake cleaner into the existing pad/caliper area FIRST to wash any brake dust away.(being careful of painted surfaces) Take a thin "putty knife" and GENTLY pry the inboard and outboard brake pads away from the brake rotor/disc as far as they will go. Then with a 12pt 1/4" socket, remove the 2 pad retention pins from the caliper's face and let the pads fall out of the caliper's body, being careful to take notice of the pads themselves (they are slightly different) Slide the new pads up into the caliper body one at a time. This will require a little force as there is a spring inside the caliper body. Then you can re-insert the retention pins and snug them down firmly (do not over tighten) Double check your work, use a falshlight if necessary. Make SURE the pads are in place and you have adequate brake pedal "pressure". The bleeding of the caliper might be necessary. If you are wary of this procedure, please have qualifed persons do this critical work.

Aug 08, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLHRCI Road King...

1 Answer

Part which holds the rear brake pads is touching the rotor. HELP


I would guess that when you replaced the rear brake controls, you didn't get the master cylinder control adjusted correctly. The plunger inside the master must return all the way out when you release the pedal. If not, it won't release all the pressure on the caliper.

Readjust the linkage so that the plunger in the master cylinder comes all the way back out when you release the brake pedal. Most people have just a bit of slack, like 0.010" or so between the end of the plunger and the brake rod when the pedal is all the way up.

Now, if you're talking about the brake caliper itself is dragging the rotor, you've either got some badly worn out pads or the caliper mounting bracket has something wrong. You need to remove the two bolts that hold the caliper on the bracket and lift the caliper off. Since I can't see what you've got, you'll have to look and see what is wrong. Sorry but that's the weakness of this forum.

Be very careful when working on your brakes. Make sure you test them before riding the bike. Serious injury or death could result from a improperly done repair. If you don't know what you are doing, pay someone that does to do the job. Anything other than brake I wouldn't say that but brakes are just too important to risk.

Good Luck
Steve

Jun 27, 2010 | Harley Davidson XL Sportster 883...

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How do i change brake pads on a 2003 dodge


You have air in the brake system and you will have to bleed the brakes.This will take time but if you keep your eye on the fluid level and then open the bleeder screw on one caliper at a time and let about 1 to 2 cups of fluid come out of each side you should get the air out of the system to regain your brakes.

Feb 18, 2010 | 2003 Dodge Stratus

1 Answer

Want to replace rear brake pads 1995 HARLEY FAT BOY. How to do it?


Replacing the pads on your Fat Boy is not difficult but you need to pay close attention to the way things are put together as you take it apart. Particularly the little steel pad retainers and the anti-rattle spring. These parts are made and go together in such a way that it's very hard to describe how they go in.

To remove the pads, take the two caliper retaining bolts out of the disc brake caliper. These are usually Torx head bolts. Once you get the bolts out, the caliper simply slides to the front and off of the pads. You'll need a way to push the piston back into the caliper so it will go down onto the new pads. I usually do this with a large pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure you put a rag or something on your calipers so you don't damage the piston or the paint.

Now, look at the way the pads, the little steel pieces at each end of the pads and the anti-rattle spring are in the caliper support bracket. Remove the old pads and parts and install the new pads and parts in the same way. Make sure you put the fiber face of the pad TOWARDS THE ROTOR. Don't laugh, I've lots of people put them in backwards, especially on the back side of the rotor.

Now, carefully slide the caliper back down over the pads taking care not to knock the pads out of there positions. I put a little Loctite 242 (med. strength blue) on the threads of the caliper retainer bolts and reinstall them. Torque them to about 25 foot pounds.
Check the brake fluid level in the rear master cylinder and slowly "pump" the rear brake pedal until the rear brake feels firm. Wait a few minutes and mash the brake pedal one time to the bottom. If it goes down to lower point and then on the next "pump" is higher, you probably need to bleed air from the system.

Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, press the rear brake pedal to the bottom and hold it there, close the bleed valve, and then release the brake pedal. Continue to do this until all the air is out of the system and the rear brake pedal feels firm on the first time it's depressed. While doing this, never allow the rear brake fluid reserviour to run out of fluid. If it does, you'll have to start all over with the bleeding process. Use only DOT 5 brake fluid. DOT 5 and DOT 3 or 4 are NOT compatible and will not mix. If they are mixed, it will cause you a lot of trouble in the future.

Test the brakes before you ride the bike and then again when you first ride the bike at a very low speed. Failure to do this job properly can cause serious injury or death. Brakes must operate properly. Good Luck!

Oct 24, 2009 | 2001 Harley Davidson FLSTF - FLSTFI Fat...

3 Answers

Losing brake fluid(2001 kia sportage)


Check the rear wheel cylinders if you have drum brakes on the rear. Check the master cylinder cap to be sure it's on right & snug. Use D.O.T. 3 fluid,not synthetic. If you're losing fluid there's a reason. Check the front brake pads & slides for the calipers,could be frozen with rust & eating up the pads. Fluid would seem low if the pads are shot.

Jun 28, 2009 | 2001 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

Brakes


All you have to do is take the calipers off crack open the bleeder of the side you are working on leave the old pad in the caliper and press the pad in as far as it will go tighten bleeder clean the rotors with brake clean to get the oily substance off they put on during shipping to keep them from rusting put rotor back in place and put new pads in caliper if they give you grease for the caliper sliders put some on the caliper bolts and sliders the thing the bolts go into on the caliper so they move fairly easy this way your brakes will work better and last longer put caliper back in place tighten caliper bolts snug usually with a ratchet like a good 3/8 ratchet then do the other side fill up the master cylinder with proper brake fluid usually dot3 but should say on master cylinder cap bleed brakes if you did just the front bleed the passenger side first pump pedal a few times dont go all the way to the floor have someone open the bleeder on the right front passenger front while holding pedal down with just a little pressure one foot on pedal one under pedal so it dont go to the floor then do the same for the other side check fluid start vehicle if pedal is good go for a test drive and thats it.

Jan 06, 2009 | 2005 Ford F-150

2 Answers

Brakes just dont seem right.. dealer said they put on new front rotors when i 1st complained.. but only got alittle better, brakes still seem like i have to apply with alot of force, when with my wifes...


If the vehicle has rear drum brakes, I would check the adjustment on them, if they are too loose, this will cause the brake pedal to go down low.

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