Question about Harley Davidson Motorcycles
Rear pads are good just seem to have to mash the brake pedal down way to far for my taste on forward controls. is there any way to snug it up?
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi Anonymous, it's not uncommon for the linkage in forward controls to flex on rear brake pedal pressure causing it to travel more. You can try pressure bleeding the system for abnormally trapped air. Good luck
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: replace rear brake pads
Remove right saddlebag, pull the two caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper. Do not open bleeder or disconnect line. You will need to push a large screwdriver between the old pads before removing them in order to push the pucks back into the caliper or the new pads will not spread enough to reinstall. Then pull the two smaller bolts from the caliper and the pads will fall out. The pads are different for inside and outside, so pay attention, and remember, after reinstalling, before riding, be sure to pump brake pedal, and it may take a few stops before brakes stop as effectively as before.
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
heres how its done
remove the seat , then battery neg. cable at frame, positive at terminal, then feel around the outside of the box - there is a rear lower bolt and an upper bolt - - this will cause the battery tray to swing down when they are removed. Orient the new battery same as the old one... reverse the process..... thats it
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
SOURCE: oil change
go to fixmyhog.com and purchase the fix my hog dvd for softail/dynas. it shows complete video for all the general harley maintenance. it's worth it's weight in gold for all the money it has saved me in doing my own maintenance on my 05 fxd. i have mantained my scoot since it was brand new. 29,00 mles later, it still runs great !
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
Sounds like you've got a vacuum leak somewhere. Either your intake seals or the carb seal is leaking air. Have you replaced the air filter housing? On the Evolution and later engines, the carb is designed as a "spigot seal" type carb. In other words, it just pushes into a seal instead of bolting on like the older carbs did. This means that the carb has to be aligned correctly or an air leak can occur around the seal. The air filter assembly is what holds the carb. into the seal and aligns the carb.
If you haven't messed with the air filter assembly there is one other thing that I've seen cause this problem. Your bike has two vacuum operated devices on it. One is the VOES switch and the other is the fuel petcock. The VOES switch is part of th igniton system and the petcock is the fuel valve on the fuel tank. The vacuum comes from either the carb or the intake manifold and is routed to the devices by a vacuum hose. Make sure this hose in connected to all three locations and has no holes in it. The vacuum hose to the petcock is on the backside of the petcock and the VOES is located on the bottom of the frame top tube under the fuel tank near the carb.
I have seen the vacuum operated petcock cause a vacuum leak in at least one occasion. Normally, when they go bad they just shut the fuel off to the carb and the engine won't run. But, I did have one that caused a severe vacuum leak and the bike acted exactly like you're describing. I took the petcock out of the tank. Drain the fuel first, not easy to do with the petcock being vacuum operated. I got a large funnel and held it under the petcock while I slowly unscrewed it. Once you have the petcock out, you'll see four small screws on the back side of it where the vacuum hose connects. Remove the screws and check the diagraphm behind the plate. Be careful, there is a small spring behind the plate. Take the petcock apart carefully so you can remember how to properly reassemble it.
Personally, I would eliminate the vacuum operated petcock and replace it with a high quality manual operated petcock. Like I said earlier, if they malfunction they usually shut the fuel off to the engine. There you are, a full tank of fuel but none to the engine. I'd replace it with an original Harley unit for a 1995 or earlier bike or a high quality aftermarket unit like a Pingle.
You need to find this problem before you ride the bike too much. The lean mixture resulting from a vacuum leak will cause the engine to run very hot.
Posted on Oct 20, 2009
remove the drain plug from the oil pan, you will need either a 3/4" box wrench or a 5/8" box wrench and the drain plug will be facing forward on the the oil pan. It is easiest to remove this drain plug from under the right side of the bike. put drain plug back in after about 10 m,inutes of drain time and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. Dont forget to change the oil filter as well.
Posted on Oct 28, 2009
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