Question about 2005 Honda CBF 500 ABS
When battery is fully charged the engine runs perfectly but with 15 minutes of riding using no lights battery run's dead and engine cut's off When engine is running I removed -negative wire from battery engine cuts off What do you think is my solution
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing or printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR...
Honda CB500T Manual
Honda CBF500 Owner Manual
Posted on Aug 22, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: engine cuts out
I had a similar problem with my Honda XR. Turned out to be the Ignition Control module. The unit is probably sealed and unable to inspect. I figured it out by hitting it while the motor was running and it would cut out.
Posted on Nov 17, 2008
From your explanation it sure sounds electricals, but surprising to hve a total failure to the electricals and thn it reappears after 30seconds!
Best would be to go through the wiring especially frm the battery onwards, the fuse box .
Since it is totally disappearing it should be a fault to those main wires could be lose connections somewhere!.
Hope this helps.
Posted on May 10, 2009
Double check your battery. It could be bad and not holding a charge... If it's good then you can move to the generator. An easy way to check the generator is to get a voltage meter and put one lead on the pos and the other lead on the neg (while the bike is running), the voltage meter should read approx 14volts. If not, then you know the generator isn't putting out enough power to charge the battery. Then check all wiring back to the stator. Hope the stator isn't bad because I remember it being pretty expensive. Good luck...
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
Try starting it then pull the plug out right after trying if the plug is wet you have to much fuel and the float is stuck or has a hole in it and it is most likely your problem if you have fire. if it is flooded you can pull out the spark plug and clean it and kick the motor over to get excess gas out of the cylinder try installing it again then start it, does it fire up? if it does it's flooded due to the problem listed above. If it does not start pull plugs out again add a cap of motor oil in the cylinders and if the plugs are dry reinstall plugs and see if it runs, If it does it may have stuck rings the capful of oil will make the rings seat once this happens they rings should loosen up if not and it will not run after you shut it off then you have low compression. This is assuming you know you have a blue spark to the plug and have cleaned and gapped the plug or plugs. If you need more help psot here and reply tothe e-mail you recieved with this. Hope this helps.
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
SOURCE: my new battery keeps draining
did you check what the charging current it? look in the manual on how you can hook up a meter to measure the charging current thats actually going into the battery when its charging. if thats correct then, u might have a leak or something.
how dead is the battery?
Posted on Dec 20, 2009
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You can test this by putting a volt meter across the battery posts. A fully charged battery should read 12.6 volts. Then start the engine and the voltage should increase to 13.5 to 15 volts. If you do not get this increase in voltage, then the alternator is not charging, which can be either the wiring to the alternator or the alternator itself being bad. Good luck :O)
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