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1200 k1 bandit misfiring

Started misfiring put new spark plugs in still same got new carburettors repair kit a ndcleaned the carb still same it idles ok when I twist the throtle it pops and bangs a nd spits fuel

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

jpolicky
  • 40 Answers

SOURCE: 1200 bandit choking up under 3000rpm

Sounds the pilot passages and or the needl jet air passages are blocked on the carb for that cylinder that is not fireing. The carb should be removed from the bike and disassembled and dipped in carb cleaner. What I think works best for cleaning carb is Yamaha's Carb Dip I mix it 50/50 with warm water. All the rubber parts must be removed as they will be swell and be damaged by the dip. After you dip the carb will need to verify all passages with spray carb clean to make sure the fluid will make it through the intended passage.

Posted on May 25, 2009

  • 47 Answers

SOURCE: i have 1200 bandit will not start put 4 new

i would think its the coil as the cdi in this model was a good unit

Posted on Jun 17, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1983 honda GL1100I, New spark plugs, good

When I recently ordered parts from Saber Cycle, they included a piece of information that pertained to my motorcycle, which is also a 1983 Honda Goldwing GL1100 Interstate. Here is what it says, I hope this helps:

Air Cut-Off Valve

The air cut-off valve is an extremely important part of the fuel/air intake system that is frequently missed even my competent mechanics, most of whom are not even aware of its existence or how it functions.

Every GL1000 has one, located in the air intake tube, between the air cleaner box and the manifold. Every GL1100 has four, located in the top air intake passage of each carburetor, and every GL1200 has one located in the plenum box below the air cleaner box similar to the GL1000.

These valves are "air blockers", along with the carburetor o-rings, serving to restrict air flow and increase the fuel/air mixture ratio when the carb slides are in the lower RPM range, up to closed so that the machine will start and idle smoothly with virtually no choking and accelerate rapidly, with no stumble or hesitation.

When typical starting requires heavy and prolonged choking to keep the bike running, when stalling and hesitation occurs even while "warmed up" and when backfiring pops while the throttle is shut off while cruising, most people will start fooling with the air screws to try to overcome the problem, only making it worse along with reducing their gas mileage.

Running with dysfunctional air cut-off valves can causes severe engine damage or failure. When the valves are dysfunctional, the engine pulls nearly total air in the low RPM range through the carbs and on to the combustion chamber. The fuel/air ratio is extremely poor with pre-ignition long before the normal 38 to 40 degree firing point, generating an enormous amount of heat, with no power, which is trapped a longer period of time in the cylinder before the exhaust valve opens.

This heat goes mostly up through the cylinder head, gradually incinerating the head gaskets and allowing engine coolant (anti-freeze) to seep into the engine. You can easily spot when you are in trouble by a puff of bluish-white or white smoke on first starting the engine. Don't leave it alone. Change head gaskets immediately or you could take out your bottom end bearings, ruining the engine.

For those of you installing new exhaust systems, you will discolor your headpipes, either blue (lean state) or gold (rich state). You can destain your pipes using "blueaway" or "blue-off" but be careful not to rub the chrome, just dab gently.k These compounds are usually purchased at a Harley dealer or Harley oriented aftermarket shop.

Honda genuine pipes, like many Yamaha pipes, have a double wall for a portion of the headpipe which masks this discoloration-but also masks a bad state of tune. Even if your pipes are original and still in good shape, don't think that you are OK if the bike has any or all of the dysfunctional air cut-off valve running and performance characteristics.

If your 1975 to 1987 Gold Wing is not getting 50-58 miles per gallon (20-23 KM/Liter), you have one of the most obvious signs of trouble. It is likely your air screws have been backed out to try overcome the effects of the poor running, stumbling, starting and stalling and quitting.

Resynchronize all four carbs to the #3 carb vacuum level using mercury carb sticks or vacuum dial gauges. Stay with strict use of the setting levels in either the Honda, Clymer or Haynes manuals. Do not attempt to tune any other way! Guessing will not work and can cause considerable engine damage!!!

Posted on Sep 26, 2009

  • 185 Answers

SOURCE: i have 1200 bandit with fuel getting into oil

Check the Compression in all 4 cylinders, if the compression is low on one cylinder, squirt some oil or or WD40 down the bore and immediately recheck the compression. If the pressure goes up a fair bit you have a broken ring, if not you could have a burnt valve. If your getting fuel in the oil it definately sounds like a ring problem

Posted on Nov 13, 2009

  • 280 Answers

SOURCE: 1997 suzuki 1200 bandit runs rough spits out of

its spitting fuel or coolant? - not sure but this has happened with a leaking manifold, I know it sounds impossible but I heard of it... just check the manifold anyway* (go figure)
if its fuel being spat out I''d say pitted/worn/loose/misaligned/bent intake valve(s) on no2. any pinking?
if its coolant> head gasket*

Posted on Jan 16, 2010

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Check you have a spark, connect a spare plug and hold it to an earth, crank the engine and watch for a spark. If not check your ignition circuit. If a good strong spark proceed:
Check fuel supply to carburettor - make sure there are no transit plugs that have not been removed. Easiest way is to disconnect the supply hose - no naked lights!!!!
If that\'s OK remove the carburettor float chamber and check that fuel is reaching the carburettor. If the float chamber is dry, check the float valve assembly. There\'s not usually much to small engine carburettors so if the fuels getting to the carb it may be a blocked jet or just very badly adjusted. There is also the possibility that the carb is faulty (yes I know it\'s new but ...!).
If fuel and spark is OK then it could be the spark timing - it should be OK unless you\'ve stripped the engine. On some engine\'s it is possible to set the spark 180 degrees out so that it sparks on the exhaust stroke - just to confuse things some engines spark on both exhaust & compression.
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Chances are condensation has collected in the carb float bowl. Drain the carb. Yes, keep the tank filled. This will lessen condensation. You may want to install a new spark plug as well.

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Hey June, the correct assembly. cleaning. setting, and adjustments of the carburetor are CRITICAL....Please take the carb to a qualified professional to get it cleaned and set. Ask him which screw sets the idle speed..and you can set it when you reassemble it.. (ONLY adjust the idle speed screw!!)
IF this machine has oil injection, and its been working fine.. do not adjust it...AND .. if the oil is injected into the carb (i've seen one or two bikes with this set-up)..its working fine..the fuel/air will be taken care of when the carb is fixed! Make sure your air filter is clean!!.. and a new spark plug will help!!

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Be sure fuel lines are healthy...especially any places where they bend. If you feel confident enough you can go into the carb itself and check the inlet screen which is just under the inlet needle. These are a common trouble spot.
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Zama carb repair kits found here.
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Try balancing ans syncronising the carbs.
BALANCE THE CARBS
Turn the throttle screw on the LEFT carb one half turn inward. Now start the engine and get it warmed up. With the engine running, remove the RIGHT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the left carb to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.

Now turn the throttle screw on the RIGHT carb one half turn inward. Restart and rev the engine. Next, remove the LEFT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the right carb to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place.

Turn the idle screw on each carb EXACTLY ONE QUARTER turn outward and restart the engine. The engine will be probably be idling very fast. Adjust both the idle screws equally from this point to get to the desired idle speed.

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Remove the air filter and rubber fittings to allow you to see into the throat of both carbs. You may need a mirror to see inside. You need to be able to see the slides go up and down when you twist the throttle. Now turn the fitting where the cable goes into each carb such that there is just a bit of slack in the cable, 1/16" is plenty. Lock ONE of the cable adjusters down tight. All further adjustments will be made on the other carb.

With the motor turned off twist the throttle very slowly while looking at the slides. Both slides need to begin lifting at the exact same moment. If the slides don't raise at the exact same time then slowly twist the throttle until the locked adjuster slide just barely starts to move. Hold the throttle still and turn the adjuster on the other carb so that the slide on that carb just barely starts to move also. Now recheck the slide movement timing. Do this process until the slides on both carbs begin to raise at the EXACT same moment. Lock down the loose adjuster and re-check the slides.

Please rate this solution. Thanks!

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