Question about 2001 Suzuki GS 1200 SS

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How to tighten timing chain on a 2004 suzuki gs 1200

Making noise at low revs. seems ok when over 2000 revs

Posted by Anonymous on


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: how to tight the chain

The drive chain for your motorcycle should have no more than a 1/2 of play in it. Place the chain with the motor shut off between your thumb and fore finger. if you can move it up or down anymore than a 1/2, then you'll need to tighten it. Adjust both sides of the chain tensioner equally, and you should be set.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: suzuki gsf 1200 s bandit

Christmas comes early. Go to the site below and you can download a free PDF service manual. Yours is the 1st one in the "Suzuki GSF" section of the list. 4 or 5 below that is a PDF parts diagram with part numbers. Most manuals are in English but some are not. There is no way to be sure without doing the download. You can always delete it if in a foreign language.

Top rating due for this answer! Thanks Asel :)

Posted on May 08, 2009

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SOURCE: How to tighten the chain

Loosen the rear axle nut mounting the wheel to the swing arm, then loosen the lock bolt on the top of the chrome adjuster ( left and right adjusters ), then loosen the lock nut on the long adjuster screw. Run the nut about 1/2" down the length of the adjuster screw. Now turn the adjuster screws equally in a clockwise direction to remove the excess slack from the chain. There should be index lines on the swing arm that the single index line on the chrome adjuster is referenced to. Example; If the chrome index line meets up with perhaps the fourth index mark on the swing arm on the left side, the right side should be at the same position. This keeps the wheel in alignment. When the adjustment is finished tighten the axle nut then tighten the adjuster lock nuts and then tighten the lock bolt on top of the chrome adjusters.

Leave some slack in the chain. Mid-chain you should be able to move the chain up and down about one and one half inches. If the chain can be lifted at the rear sprocket it is too loose. Lubricate the chain and the control cables on the bike. What condition are the front and rear sprockets in? The teeth should be bluntly rounded at the tip. If the teeth are sharp at the tip, or getting that way, then the sprockets are way past time to be replaced. Note that a worn sprocket can quickly ruin a new chain.

Please top rate this solution. Thanks!

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: suzuki 1200 bandit 1997 running rough at low revs

i had a similar problem on a suzuki gs250t custom, my bike would not start some times and if did start, would run erratically, and cut out, this was after i changed the spark plugs, found out that the supplier gave me the incorrect graded plugs.

Posted on Jun 11, 2009

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SOURCE: 1978 Suzuki GS 1000 revs up on its own.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

To my understanding, an air leak would be anywhere before the carbs; the air box  cover, the the 4 coupling rubber tubes or even the air filter itself.  Although an air leak in any of these areas would not cause an intermittent high idle. Air leak here would cause a lean mix and/or a flat spot while accelerating.  

On the other hand, a vacuum leak could cause high idle. Vacuum leak would be after the carbs and on any of the coupling to the intake ports of the engine or how they are fitted. In some versions, there are balancer nipples that have interconnecting rubber hoses and/or a vacuum line to the fuel cut-off valve that couls also have a hole or tear. It must be noted that the high idle because of a vacuum leak is consistent.

Intermittent high idle would often be mechanical or almost always on the throttle system. Common causes are:

  • corroded, dirty, unlubricated, throttle mechanism or cable or linkages;
  • pinched, kinked or sharp bended cable housing;
  • forced or irregular routing of the cable;
  • it must also be pointed that sticking sliders (inside the carbs) can cause irregular (high) idle.
Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Posted on Aug 06, 2009

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2001 Suzuki GSF 1200 Bandit S when idling and at low speeds makes clicking sound

Hi, Anonymous I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
1. Bearings---SCREECH
2. Belts---CHIRP
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Rear Chains---RATTLE
5. Cam Chains---CLICKIT
6. Clutches---CHATTER
7. Cylinders---PING
8. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Gears---WHINE
11. Head Gasket---HISS
12. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
13. Pistons---SLAP
14. Radiators---GURGLE
15. Rear Chains---RATTLE
16. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
17. Relays---CLICK&BUZZ
18. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
19. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
20. Solid Lifters---TICK
21. Starters---CLICK
22. Connecting Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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In my suzuki twin's right cylinder there's a spark but no combustion. Left one fires ok.

Hi, Rays you need "FIVE" things in order for a cylinder to run properly:
1. FUEL: in order to validate your not getting fuel spray some starting fluid into the air cleaner and hit the starter button, if it fires up and runs for a few seconds then you know you have a fuel delivery issue.
2. SPARK: remove the spark plug and with it connected to the spark plug cable ground the threads to something metal you should see a bluish white spark if not you have a faulty spark plug, spark plug cable, ignition coil, condenser, CKP, ECM, sensor or the wiring in between.
3. COMPRESSION: you must have at least 80-100 PSI for most bikes if not perform a leak down test you may have a burnt or bent valve or hole in the piston or broken rings.
4. CAM TIMING: confirm your timing marks are aligned to see if the cam chain or adjuster are worn out and the chain has skipped a couple teeth.
5. IGNITION TIMING: on older bikes check to see if your points have not closed up, timing plate has not become loose and confirm with a timing light for proper retard and advance functions, on newer bikes where timing is controlled by an ECM and is nonadjustable check you CKP, TPS, MAP, O2, sensor or it's counterpart for integrity.
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I have a suzuki GS650gt 1984 which sounds OK on tickover. Rev it hard and there is a rattle. How can you tell if the crank bearings are on the way out?

could just be a timing chain. I'm not sure but I have heard that the slides in the carbs can rattle a bit also.

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