Question about Harley Davidson Motorcycles
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Posted on May 07, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Replacing the pads on your Fat Boy is not difficult but you need to pay close attention to the way things are put together as you take it apart. Particularly the little steel pad retainers and the anti-rattle spring. These parts are made and go together in such a way that it's very hard to describe how they go in.
To remove the pads, take the two caliper retaining bolts out of the disc brake caliper. These are usually Torx head bolts. Once you get the bolts out, the caliper simply slides to the front and off of the pads. You'll need a way to push the piston back into the caliper so it will go down onto the new pads. I usually do this with a large pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure you put a rag or something on your calipers so you don't damage the piston or the paint.
Now, look at the way the pads, the little steel pieces at each end of the pads and the anti-rattle spring are in the caliper support bracket. Remove the old pads and parts and install the new pads and parts in the same way. Make sure you put the fiber face of the pad TOWARDS THE ROTOR. Don't laugh, I've lots of people put them in backwards, especially on the back side of the rotor.
Now, carefully slide the caliper back down over the pads taking care not to knock the pads out of there positions. I put a little Loctite 242 (med. strength blue) on the threads of the caliper retainer bolts and reinstall them. Torque them to about 25 foot pounds.
Check the brake fluid level in the rear master cylinder and slowly "pump" the rear brake pedal until the rear brake feels firm. Wait a few minutes and mash the brake pedal one time to the bottom. If it goes down to lower point and then on the next "pump" is higher, you probably need to bleed air from the system.
Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, press the rear brake pedal to the bottom and hold it there, close the bleed valve, and then release the brake pedal. Continue to do this until all the air is out of the system and the rear brake pedal feels firm on the first time it's depressed. While doing this, never allow the rear brake fluid reserviour to run out of fluid. If it does, you'll have to start all over with the bleeding process. Use only DOT 5 brake fluid. DOT 5 and DOT 3 or 4 are NOT compatible and will not mix. If they are mixed, it will cause you a lot of trouble in the future.
Test the brakes before you ride the bike and then again when you first ride the bike at a very low speed. Failure to do this job properly can cause serious injury or death. Brakes must operate properly. Good Luck!
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
i'm no expert on new Hogs but try this.In car alarms disconnecting the neg.lead resets the computer.when you reconnect the neg.lead the alarm goes off.In your case turn the alarm off by turning the key on.Your alarm light keeps blinking like it's still on because it is.The blinking and ticking should time out so your battery won't go dead but the anti theft feature should still work.locks out the ign. or locks fuel pump if your injected.Since your battery saver doesn't work the system might be shot.If you have a chip in the key the system may not recognize it ,doesn't know it's you.Try unlocking the bike with the remote if it has one.I vote for the bad system,pull it out an wire around it.Good luck.
Posted on Mar 19, 2010
SOURCE: change back brakes on 2006
Remove any saddlebags or whatever that might hinder access to the rear caliper. Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper onto the caliper bracket and lift the caliper off the bracket carefully. Place it aside so that the hose in not crimped or the caliper hanging by the hose.
Now, look at the pads and anti-rattle hardware and see how it's all placed in the bracket. Remove old parts and install new ones exactly like the old stuff came out.
Then you need to get the piston pressed back into the caliper. I use either a large C-clamp or a large pair of slip joint pliers to press the piston all the way down in the caliper. Use some rags or pieces of wood to protect the finish and the paint on the caliper.
Carefully place the caliper back on it's bracket without disturbing the pads or the other parts. Put the two screws back in and torque them to 25 foot pounds. Slowly press the rear brake pedal until you get a full firm brake pedal. Check the level of the brake fluid in the rear master cylinder reservior.
Test the brakes before riding the motorcycle. Failure to insure proper brakes can lead to serious injury or death.
Posted on Oct 23, 2010
1) Can not find this spec.
2) C50 rake is 33 degrees, Fat Boy's is 32.
3) Many have had over 50k miles without any major engine work. Luck and riding conditions determine this to a large degree, but I would say that most need to start thinking about valve/ring work at 60K.
4)Valve adjustment recommended at every 7500 miles; about a 4-hour backyard job, but doable without any real specialized tools. (I've been letting mine slide for 19k, just because it's been running so good!) Cam chain tensioner failures have been reported, but this seems to be the exception, and the use of synthetic oil may lessen the chances, Problems with water getting to the rear shaft splines have prompted owners to pull them and add Molybdenum paste at each rear tire change, and this requires replacing the oil seal- about $11.
5) Depends on current mileage and price, but with a modicum of proper care, you could expect 50k miles of riding without major issues.
Posted on Nov 18, 2010
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