Question about Motorcycles
I have just converted my bike into a trike with a dna trike kit that have a disc on each end,but i am having a problem of getting good braking .is it better having 3/4" or 5/8"piston in the master cylinder
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1100 Sport i rear disc
topped-up the fluid and put in new pads. The wheel spins OK when up on the stand and the brakes don't jam or even seem sticky when you try them with the back wheel off the ground —ie: calipers grip and open again as they should. But on the open road the pads still seem to rub just enough to generate a warm to hot disc. (And the pedal has the right amount of play before the brakes come on.) Since working over the caliper and re-bleeding the brakes etc it seems a bit better (no fading) but it still runs a little warm to hot. I'm wondering about a complete service for the rear Brembo popping the pistons out and changing the seals etc but before I do (and I have to say it all looks absolutely fine as it is), is there anything else I should be looking at / thinking of? The disc seems true and unwarped. I know there's some anxiety about getting the right type of Brembo pad for the rear brakes on these particular bikes. Some are too thick? The parts book says Frendo FD 72 GG 222, (Guzzi part no: 27 65 46 10) and the caliper itself is marked 204531.03 if that means anything. (Is this the P32 type?) The pads I have are supposed to be the proper Brembo ones with the code 98.5031.50. Is there something I don’t know about this? ,FWIW this was a problem with some Sportis when they were new, to the extent that I saw a couple with completely smoked rear brakes, overheated due to brake drag. Mine never did it, so I don't know the root cause. In at least one of the instances I saw, the dealer replaced the entire brake system under warranty. There was a separate and likely unrelated issue with rear brake disks that were machined with a step in the middle of the pad's foorprint on one side. At the time, I heard people attributing the brake drag problem to the disk problem, but I can't see a correlation. ,,,
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
One easy thing to try is clamp the front brake lever overnight. If there are any air bubbles in the system they should be compressed and in theory work their way to the highest point in the system - the master cylinder. Doesn't always work but the price is right.
My experience has been air enters the calipers more than it does the master cylinder due to miscommunication between the person squeezing the lever and the person opening the bleed screw. They do have bleed kits these days that make it a little easier.
Posted on Apr 06, 2009
Are you bleeding it by gravity (flowing down from resevior thru caliper) or forcing the fluid up thru the caliper to the resevior. The latter will get more air out in less time. Simple cheap pump kits are available at you auto dealer and u can use it on your other vehicles.
Posted on May 14, 2009
SOURCE: Rear brake cylinder and bleeding
Relax....KTM's are delicate in this procedure.
First of all make sure that you are using DOT 5.1 brake fluid and not 4 as we use in the Japan models.
Then take the rear caliper in your hands and push the piston all the way in.Then bolt it on its position.
Bolt on the brake hose to the rear caliper tight and leave it loose on the rear master cylinder side (loose but ready to tight it on like half circle loose) and clean up the reservoir completely.
Take a syringe from a pharmacy and a piece of 3mm clear tube.
Start pushing brake fluid in the caliper's loose bleeder until you see fluid coming out fron the hose's loose end on the master cylinder.
The tight the cylinder's bolt and keep pushing fluid until you see it filling up the reservoir.
When you see the reservoir fully filled up, tight the bleeder, take out the syringe and start pressing the brake pedal 15-20 times and the last one keep it down and loose the bleeder (with a tube attached to it and to a bottle) for a sec to relieve the pressure along with any air bubbles.DON'T LIFT THE PEDAL UNTIL YOU HAVE TIGHT BACK THE BLEEDER or the system will **** air in.FIRST tight the bleeder and THEN loose the pedal.
Keep doing that until NO air comes out of the system.
While you are doing this second stage keep filling up the reservoir and do not let the master cylinder **** air in.
Posted on Jun 15, 2009
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