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Replace clutch plate

Wish side is the clutch plates

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  • Motorcycles Master
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Hi Willie, for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix or parts inquiry. If necessary transport your vehicle to the dealer or shop and have a professional technician take it for a test drive, if it is in running condition, and give you a written estimate of repairs and answer any specific questions you may have about your issue. Good luck and have a nice day.

Posted on Sep 30, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2712 Answers

SOURCE: 996 Clutch Slave Cylinder Stuck

drum basket springs rubbers and so on, including the control rod because it had broken. The Clutch lever however operated fine with a nice smooth action before changing the clutch, but now the lever only moves about 10mm before becoming rock solid, making it impossible to disengage the engine. I have removed the clutch slave from the bike for inspection but it remains solid which I think indicates that the piston is stuck. The slave cylinder was hanging free from the bike for a few weeks, I do not know if this is significant. My questions are: What is wrong? How can I fix it? Bike: 996 European Biposto Year: 2000 Many thanks,having the slave hanging shouldn't be the problem. The only only thing I can think of is, when you replaced the rod did you get the correct one? I can't remember off-hand right now, but I know that the clutch rod came in different lenghts. I just can't remember if the 2000 and earlier were the longer ones or vise-versa. I'm sure some one here will know that one. I could be wrong about this is the problem, but it's my guess.,,,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: Changing clutch plates on a 1994 KE 100

All you need to do is remove the right crankcase cover then remove the clutch cap and springs then the friction plates and clutch plates. Note that a friction plate is both the first and last plate in the clutch and that a pressure plate is in-between each friction plate. Friction plates are fiber, pressure plates are metal. No case splitting is required.

You may want to get a 3/8" impact driver to remove screws and hex head bolts and to tighten them back up. I find it to be the most useful tool in my shop. My Bluepoint brand impact driver is 40 years old an as good as new.

Please rate this answer. Thanks kettnerrequip!

Posted on Apr 16, 2009

co7196
  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: clutch wont disengage properly

What kind of oil is in the crankcase? Wet clutches take a sprcial oil, noy motor oil. If oil is correct, Is the cable and release levers fully disengaging the clutch? There is an adjustment for the rod inside the clutcjh hub . That could be short stroking.

Posted on May 17, 2009

  • 32 Answers

SOURCE: Clutch push rod will not depress to engage

go to this http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-rt1-19701971_model8356/partslist/A-09.html and then click on "view big image", this will give you a diagram of the clutch etc,, the adjustment (No. 26) may need looking at, or (No.11,12,) have broken.Basically you turn 26 in (clockwise) untill you feel light resistance then back off 1/2 turn (been years since i worked on one of these!) this should give you freeplay, have you just got the bike?, and do you think it has been stripped lately(ie the clutch). PS I am not affiliated with the web site i offered above, just a handy reference for you maybe? cheers

Posted on Jul 24, 2009

  • 31 Answers

SOURCE: REPLACE CLUTCH PLATES ON A 1981 YAMAHA XJ550

Buy a clutch cover gasket. Take clutch cover off, remove 5 bolts and pressure plate, pull each plate out one at a time keeping them in order, replace with new plates, new plates go in same order. Soak the new plates in oil overnight before installing. Clean gasket surfaces completley.

Posted on Sep 10, 2009

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HOW DO I CHANGE MY CLUTCH AND PLATES 2008 FLHTCU?


Clutch and plates replacement can be performed on the motorcycle without removing the clutch shell or hub.


FIRST remove the primary chaincase cover. THEN remove six metric bolts to release the clutch diaphragm spring retainer from the clutch hub by loosening each bolt gradually and in a star sequence around the Hub circumference and then remove the diaphragm spring retainer, the diaphragm spring and pressure plate from the clutch hub and after the pressure plate has been removed remove the 9 friction plates, the steel plates, the damper spring and the damper spring seat from the clutch hub. Clean and inspect as necessary and wash all parts except for friction plates (and any bearing if removed) in appropriate cleaning solvent and then blow parts dry with low pressure compressed air as high pressure compressed air is unnecessary and dangerous. CHECK the friction plates by blowing off all lubricant from them BUT DO NOT wipe them off with a rag if they are going to be reused. THEN measure the thickness of each plate with a dial caliper or micrometer and if any plate is less than 0.143 in. (3.62 mm) thick throw them all away and replace them with a complete new set. ALSO look for worn or damaged fiber surface material on all sides. If new friction plates will be installed soak them all in FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY CHAINCASE LUBRICANT (or whatever equivalent oil that you will be using in the primary after reassembly) for at least five minutes. THEN CHECK the steel plates for any grooving, bluish colouring (which indicates overheating/burning and which is usually accompanied with distortion/warping) and check for distortion by laying each plate on a machinist or other precision flat surface and try to insert a 0.006 inch (0.15 mm) feeler gauge between the plate and the precision surface. Do this in several places around the plate. If the feeler gauge slips under any plate or any plate is grooved, bluish or otherwise appears to be defective discard it and replace with a new plate. THEN rotate the clutch hub and shell to check for bearing smoothness and replace the bearing if it runs roughly, binds or has any end play. ALSO check the primary chain sprocket and the starter ring gear on the clutch shell at this time and replace the clutch shell if either the sprocket or ring gear are badly worn or damaged. ALSO check the slots that mate with the clutch plates on both the clutch shell and the hub and replace the shell or hub if any of the slots are worn or damaged (wear here can cause clutch hang-up on release). NOW check the diaphragm spring and diaphragm spring retainer for cracks or bent tabs and replace if any damage is evident.


After having soaked the friction plates as advised above first install the narrow friction plate on the clutch hub, engaging the tabs on this plate with the slots in the clutch shell then install the damper spring seat (sometimes called a judder spring) on the clutch hub so that it sits inboard of the previously installed narrow friction plate with the concave side out (facing away from damper spring

seat) (that will be with the narrow side facing into the clutch hub and the wider side facing out) THEN install a steel plate with the round edge (produced when the plate was stamped out from a larger piece of steel) outward and then install a regular friction plate onto the clutch hub and continue by installing the seven remaining sets of steel and fibre plates in the same manner, alternating between steel plates and friction plates so that no two steel are touching each other and so that no two fibre plates are touching each other and then when they are all in place install the pressure plate onto the clutch hub aligning holes in the plate with the threaded bosses on the hub. THEN install and seat the diaphragm spring into the recess of the pressure plate with the concave side inward and with the holes in the diaphragm spring retainer aligned with the threaded bosses on the clutch hub tabs on the spring retainer contact flats on the inboard side of the bosses install the six metric bolts to secure the diaphragm spring retainer to the clutch hub and alternately tighten the bolts to 90-110 in-lbs (10.2-12.4 Nm). THEN install the primary chaincase cover with a new gasket and torque the fasteners to 108-120 in-lbs (12.2-13.6 Nm) in a sequence top to bottom from the centre to the front and then top to bottom from the centre to the back of the cover and then reinstall the primary case drain plug and o-ring and torque it to 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm). THEN refill the primary chaincase with lubricant only up to the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring (if there is too much oil the clutch may drag). THEN adjust the clutch by turning the clutch adjustment screw in until it just resists and then with the cable slack somewhat removed operate the clutch lever a few times to set the clutch release balls in their ramps and then recheck the clutch release pushrod adjustment screw again so that it just resists tightening as it is screwed in and then back it out one half to one full turn and while holding it stationary tighten the adjuster screw lock nut. THEN the cable can be adjusted to provide one sixteenth to one eighth of an inch of freeplay at the clutch cable bracket or perch on the handlebars. THEN reinstall the clutch inspection (derby) cover with the five T-27 Torx screws and washers and alternatively in a cross pattern tighten the screws to 84- 108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2 Nm).

Jun 19, 2014 | 2006 Harley Davidson FLHRI Road King

1 Answer

2006 harley clutch pack assembly


After having soaked the friction plates as required first install the narrow friction plate on the clutch hub, engaging the tabs on this plate with the slots in the clutch shell then install the damper spring seat (sometimes called a judder spring) on the clutch hub so that it sits inboard of the previously installed narrow friction plate with the concave side out (facing away from damper spring
seat) (that will be with the narrow side facing into the clutch hub and the wider side facing out) THEN install a steel plate with the round edge (produced when the plate was stamped out from a larger piece of steel) outward and then install a regular friction plate onto the clutch hub and continue by installing the seven remaining sets of steel and fibre plates in the same manner, alternating between steel plates and friction plates so that no two steel are touching each other and so that no two fibre plates are touching each other and then when they are all in place install the pressure plate onto the clutch hub aligning holes in the plate with the threaded bosses on the hub. THEN install and seat the diaphragm spring into the recess of the pressure plate with the concave side inward and with the holes in the diaphragm spring retainer aligned with the threaded bosses on the clutch hub tabs on the spring retainer contact flats on the inboard side of the bosses install the six metric bolts to secure the diaphragm spring retainer to the clutch hub and alternately tighten the bolts to 90-110 in-lbs (10.2-12.4 Nm).

Apr 16, 2014 | 2006 Harley Davidson FXDI Dyna Super Glide

1 Answer

Car won t move in any gear


Did you also replace the pressure plate? Pilot bearing? If you replaced the clutch...and the car moved, and then stopped moving again...your issue is likely right there, bad pressure plate, flywheel may need resurfaced or replaced ETC. I am curious to know what the old clutch disc looked like when you took it out. Was it glazed or worn? I would pull the tranny again, and look at the new disc to see if it is glazed looking from slipping...and note if it is both sides, or one side, and which side...plate side or flywheel side. If you didn't replace the pressure plate/pilot bearing with the clutch disc...I would do that.

Mar 21, 2014 | Honda Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Hilux clutch


where is the throwout bearing? most are behind the plate.. the fingers are on the backside..

Jan 24, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Engine off shifts engine on grinds when putting in gear


The clutch plate can only be fitted one way. If you noticed one side of the plate has a raised section that contains springs. The other side is flat. Puting the plate the wrong way round allows the raised section to hit the heads of the flywheel bolts and this is causing the clutch to spin even though you have the foot on the clutch. Make sure you have properly bled the air from the clutch system. Mostly there is a notice printed on the clutch plate which reads like flywheel side or this side away from flywheel

Jan 21, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Clutch removal and reassembly


last time i changed that part i went to U-tube and found a video someone posted and watched it for an easy solution

Jun 04, 2012 | 2004 Mitsubishi Outlander

1 Answer

1990 ducati 750 sport clutch . steel and friction plate installation sequence


Hi, Shane sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Ducati despair not for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
ducatipaso org View topic Paso 750 clutch plate sequence
How To Replace Ducati Dry Clutch Hub Clutch Replacement
Free Ducati Motorcycle Service Manuals for download
Ducati OEM Parts Fiche Lookup and Online Ordering
Ducati Maintenance

Dec 13, 2011 | 1990 Ducati 750 Sport

1 Answer

How do I replace clutch on aprilia rx50?


you will need new clutch plates and side cover gasket,,,remove the side cover,undo the pressure plate bolts and the pressure plate will come off,then pull out the old clutch plates and steel plates and fit the new ones in the same order as you removed the old ones

its an easy job you can do it

Mar 19, 2011 | 2002 Aprilia RX 125

1 Answer

Renult megane o3-19-DCI Replacing clutch plate dont know which side to presure plate.


Hi,
look at the clutch plate centre hub. The side which fits to the pressure plate is generally raised further than the side which fits to the flywheel side if you have the old pressure plate and clutch plate, look at the pattern on the clutch plate, it will be emulated on the pressure plate..

Hope that you have had the flywheel 'skimmed' to ensure good contact with the clutch plate. It would be a good thing to also check the spigot or nose bearing / bushing in the flywheel. All should be replaced as a set, pressure plate, spigot bearing,clutch plate, release / throwout bearing and the flywheel skimmed.or replaced if necessary.

Happy motoring.

Feb 01, 2011 | 2003 Renault 181

1 Answer

How do i replace my clutch kit. i burned it out


ello mate,,first drain the oil out,remove the right side lower fairing,,then remove the wot looks like a large circular engine casing,then remove the bolts with springs holding the clutch plates in,,take off the cover then u will see the plates and metal lookin clutch plates,, now take out the clutch plates one at a time,,,ie take one out then place on the bench,take a metal plate out and place that on top of the 1st plate u took out,and so on,, when u have the new fibre plates,,replace back in the bike as u took the old ones out,,ie, new fibre plate 1st then put a metal friction plate back in from your bench,,then a new fibre plate and so on,,each time u replace the new plate ,chuck away the old one,,wen u have done that ,on the clutch plate cover look at the face of the cover u will see a small arrow head or a dot stamped on the face of it,, that dot should line up with a dot thats stamped on the housing where the clutch plates are,put the plate casing on so that the dots line up ,,put the springs and bolts back on and do them up tight,,then replace the engine casing,,,put your oil back in,,if u have a hydrolic clutch u will have to remove the 3 screws and the clutch piston b4 taking the casing off ,,,to read this it will sound complicated m8,, but wen u start the job itl be quite easy,, take your time tho,,any probs m8 ,shout and il anserw u,, ok,, cheers now

Mar 30, 2009 | 2007 Suzuki GSX-R 600

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