Question about Harley Davidson Motorcycles
Evo replace all lifters been adjusted a couple two or three times i was told its has time saver push rods standard after market lifters which were adjusted 3 complete turns sounds good for a min then it back to were it was at could it be possible there is 2 short size push rod the shortest one is the intake on front side but if i m not mistaken they are pretty much same lenght except the one not sure were to go next with getting costly any ideas
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi Anonymous, Crane Time Savers for evo motors are all the same length. Even new lifters can have one that won't pump up completely. You could have a front exhaust tappet block bore that has worn past specs, or oil feed holes in the blocks have been contaminated with crud, or tappet block gaskets have too small of a feed hole, or the adustment on the pushrods was done incorrectly. Please visit the website below for proper procedure:
Crane Cams Installation Time Saver Pushrods
Posted on May 08, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
what oil you using? sounds like oil is heating up and not protecting like it should. Can you see any marks anywhere that its tapping?
Posted on Apr 25, 2009
No there is a cover that slides up on the pushrod tube. Cut a tube in half lengthwise, and you'll have the shape. It's held in place by spring action. (Lift up)
After you remove it, mark the pushrod threads where the adjustment lock nut is. You'll have a ballpark place to refer back to then.
Loosen the adjustment lock nut, turn the adjustment until the pushrod is small enough to tilt to one side, and remove.
Mark each pushrod for where it/they came from. (That is, place them in a holder of some sort, and identify where each one came from, on the holder. I use a square piece of wood with holes drilled in it. Front head- Intake. Front head- Exhaust. Rear head- Intake, and so on)
You'll have new lifter/s, but each rocker arm will be worn to THAT particular pushrod. This is why it's best to keep them in order.
Next is removing the four small bolts that hold the lifter block in place. (Square block that two lifters will be in) There is a gasket under the block, so it may not just lift right up. You may have to use gentle persuasion.
(GENTLE! That wasn't a joke. Don't mar the aluminum case that the lifter block goes into! You'll have an instant oil leak from now on)
Be sure to put some prelube made for this, on the lifters round body, and on the roller on the lifter. A tiny little dab in the center of the lifter where the pushrod sits, doesn't hurt either.
1.New gasket for the lifter block.
2.New pushrod tube seals
Don't replace these, and you'll have spots all over your driveway. (Replace even if the pushrod tube seals look good)
Posted on Sep 02, 2009
SOURCE: engine noise
If you dd not torque the front sprocket down correctly you could have an issue. If this is a new noise then be concerned, if this has progressed over time, then it is more than likely just the bike loosening up. Which is normal...but loud, could this be pre-detonation, did you make the correct adjustments to your MAP? Check you push rod adjustment with the bike cold, I mean Artic overnight not running cold.
Posted on Oct 07, 2009
Are you getting any oil back to the tank from the oil pump? Sometimes the oil pump loses it's prime and "air locks". Take the oil pressure sending unit out and spin the engine without the spark plugs in it until it pumps out a couple of ounces of oil. Put the sending unit back in and spin the engine with the starter until you start getting oil back out of the oil return hose. Spin the engine about 15 seconds or so and then wait for five minutes before you do it again. You don't want to burn up the starter. Once you get oil back to the oil tank, put the plugs back in the engine and fire it up. The lifters should pump up very quickly and stop rattling.
Or, you could take the lifters back out of the engine and use a oil squirt can to pump the tappet up. Put the nozzle into the hole on either the side or the top and pump the tappet full. Bring one piston to TDC on the compression stroke and put the tappets back in. Install the pushrods and torque the rocker arm plate back down. Allow the tappets to bleed down to where you can turn the pushrods with your fingers before you turn the engine over. Once bled down, turn the engine over so the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke and install the tappets and pushrods in the that cylinder.
Sometimes the tappets will clatter for while due to air being trapped inside of them. It takes a few minutes or a few miles of riding to get it all out. As long as the oil is returning to the oil tank, everything should be fine. The only thing that could cause troubles is that if the oil hole right at the top of the timing cover is covered by the gasket. If this is done, the tappets will not pump up but continue to rattle. You may have to take the timing cover back off and check this hole. Usually the cams fall out when this happens. You may can take the tappet out of one hole and spin the engine with the plugs out while looking into the empty tappet hole with a mirror. Watch for oil to come out of the hole there. If none comes out, check the hole between the side cover and the engine case for blockage.
Posted on Feb 22, 2011
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