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98 softail sounds like tappets are lose after warmed up lifters been replaced and adjusted more than once and end up with the same results im tired what to do next ????talk to me usted

Evo replace all lifters been adjusted a couple two or three times i was told its has time saver push rods standard after market lifters which were adjusted 3 complete turns sounds good for a min then it back to were it was at could it be possible there is 2 short size push rod the shortest one is the intake on front side but if i m not mistaken they are pretty much same lenght except the one not sure were to go next with getting costly any ideas

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • Harley Davidson Master
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Hi Anonymous, Crane Time Savers for evo motors are all the same length. Even new lifters can have one that won't pump up completely. You could have a front exhaust tappet block bore that has worn past specs, or oil feed holes in the blocks have been contaminated with crud, or tappet block gaskets have too small of a feed hole, or the adustment on the pushrods was done incorrectly. Please visit the website below for proper procedure:
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/download/crane/install_timesavers.pdf
Crane Cams Installation Time Saver Pushrods
Good luck.

Posted on May 08, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 41 Answers

SOURCE: got a 1996 1200 sportster starts up quiet cold .

what oil you using? sounds like oil is heating up and not protecting like it should. Can you see any marks anywhere that its tapping?

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

  • 208 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 yamaha grizzly engine noise

you may have a collapsed lifter

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

joecoolvette
  • 5660 Answers

SOURCE: valves tapping and bike is running rough

No there is a cover that slides up on the pushrod tube. Cut a tube in half lengthwise, and you'll have the shape. It's held in place by spring action. (Lift up)

After you remove it, mark the pushrod threads where the adjustment lock nut is. You'll have a ballpark place to refer back to then.
Loosen the adjustment lock nut, turn the adjustment until the pushrod is small enough to tilt to one side, and remove.

Mark each pushrod for where it/they came from. (That is, place them in a holder of some sort, and identify where each one came from, on the holder. I use a square piece of wood with holes drilled in it. Front head- Intake. Front head- Exhaust. Rear head- Intake, and so on)

You'll have new lifter/s, but each rocker arm will be worn to THAT particular pushrod. This is why it's best to keep them in order.

Next is removing the four small bolts that hold the lifter block in place. (Square block that two lifters will be in) There is a gasket under the block, so it may not just lift right up. You may have to use gentle persuasion.
(GENTLE! That wasn't a joke. Don't mar the aluminum case that the lifter block goes into! You'll have an instant oil leak from now on)

Be sure to put some prelube made for this, on the lifters round body, and on the roller on the lifter. A tiny little dab in the center of the lifter where the pushrod sits, doesn't hurt either.
1.New gasket for the lifter block.
2.New pushrod tube seals
Don't replace these, and you'll have spots all over your driveway. (Replace even if the pushrod tube seals look good)

Posted on Sep 02, 2009

  • 269 Answers

SOURCE: engine noise

If you dd not torque the front sprocket down correctly you could have an issue. If this is a new noise then be concerned, if this has progressed over time, then it is more than likely just the bike loosening up. Which is normal...but loud, could this be pre-detonation, did you make the correct adjustments to your MAP? Check you push rod adjustment with the bike cold, I mean Artic overnight not running cold.

Posted on Oct 07, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 XL1200 I just did the heads lifter and rods,

Are you getting any oil back to the tank from the oil pump? Sometimes the oil pump loses it's prime and "air locks". Take the oil pressure sending unit out and spin the engine without the spark plugs in it until it pumps out a couple of ounces of oil. Put the sending unit back in and spin the engine with the starter until you start getting oil back out of the oil return hose. Spin the engine about 15 seconds or so and then wait for five minutes before you do it again. You don't want to burn up the starter. Once you get oil back to the oil tank, put the plugs back in the engine and fire it up. The lifters should pump up very quickly and stop rattling.

Or, you could take the lifters back out of the engine and use a oil squirt can to pump the tappet up. Put the nozzle into the hole on either the side or the top and pump the tappet full. Bring one piston to TDC on the compression stroke and put the tappets back in. Install the pushrods and torque the rocker arm plate back down. Allow the tappets to bleed down to where you can turn the pushrods with your fingers before you turn the engine over. Once bled down, turn the engine over so the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke and install the tappets and pushrods in the that cylinder.

Sometimes the tappets will clatter for while due to air being trapped inside of them. It takes a few minutes or a few miles of riding to get it all out. As long as the oil is returning to the oil tank, everything should be fine. The only thing that could cause troubles is that if the oil hole right at the top of the timing cover is covered by the gasket. If this is done, the tappets will not pump up but continue to rattle. You may have to take the timing cover back off and check this hole. Usually the cams fall out when this happens. You may can take the tappet out of one hole and spin the engine with the plugs out while looking into the empty tappet hole with a mirror. Watch for oil to come out of the hole there. If none comes out, check the hole between the side cover and the engine case for blockage.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Feb 22, 2011

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Most engines now use hydraulic lifters and they can leak a little, this causes space between then lifter and the push rod. This results in a tapping noise that goes away when they get warm or fill back up.

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Depending on the engine will determine if you can "adjust the tappets". Older cars had solid lifters so they had to be adjusted. Newer cars have hydraulic lifters and need no adjusting.

If your tappets sound like a "diesel motor" it may be they are not getting oil - or the center of the tube that provides oil to the tappets are blocked.

Need to remove the valve cover and run the engine just long enough to see if oil is coming out of the lifter. If when you remove the valve cover and the lifters look dry then you have a "lubricating problem" and you need to get it taken care of immediately.

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sounds like hydrualic lifters , if sound goes away when warm then they are wearing , but dont panic sometimes they can be like that for years , if you car does'nt have hydrualic lifters then valve tappets can be making this noise , they may need adjusting.

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Hi Bill, I'm fairly sure your vehicle has hydrolic tappets. If they are noisy I advise replacing the lifter assemblies. The lifters ride on top of the camshaft which is usually fitted inside the engine block. Depending on the engine you may be able to remove the lifters with a stiff wire onto which a very small hook has been fashioned at its end. Remove the rocker shaft assembly and then the push rods. make sure the wire is the correct length to reach the lifters and engage the hook into the clips on top of the lifters and gently pull them out. Before fitting the new lifters, fill a container with a very thin lubricating oil or diesel, submerge the lifters in the oil and with a suitable tool which will not damage the surface where the push rods rest, pump them until all signs of air are evacuated from each. Fit the new units into the engine and refit the rocker shaft assembly. Make the first adjustment of the valves using 0.30mm feeler gauge. If possible get a third tappet cover and cut off the top by removing enough material to allow the use of the tools required to carry out final adjustments. Start the engine and have it running at idle speed. the until the hydrolic followers become fully charged. the sound you should hear is a clacking sound. Tighten further until the sound disappears and then a further half turn and then tighten the locking nut. Some vehicles are fitted with single self locking nuts, which should be replaced with new. Once the engine is running as it should replace the tappet covers and all the other stuff, put your feet up, give yourself a pat on the back or get someone else to that for you and you should be done. Regards John

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Sometimes a dirty oil filter will cause lack of oil to the top end at startup.
As soon as the oil warms, it flows better and faster and hence the noise goes away after warm up.

If you need valves adjusted, the motor must be at TDC on compression stroke(both valves closed)
The motor must be cold do not try to adjust the valve clearance on a warm engine.

On TDC, pull the valve covers and check the clearance on the intake and exhaust valves by inserting a feeler gauge under the tappet.
INTAKE should be : .03-05mm
EXHAUST should be .05-.08 mm

Im sure you don't need a valve adjustment. but if you do: Put Engine on TDC
Loosen the locknut with a 9 or 10 mm wrench, stick the feeler gauge under the tappet, and tighten the little square tipped valve adjuster screw clockwise until you feel friction on the feeler guage.
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Not carefully tighten the locknut. Check the feeler guage during tightening to make sure it didn't get too tight or too loose. Once you set the clearance, move to the next valve, and repeat the process using the other feeler guage.
Once both are done put the covers back on and your done,

NOTE: You may have to remove seat, gas tank, airbox, and side covers to get to the covers.

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1 Answer

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the oil has dried in the lifters, because it hasnt been changed regularly, it sounds to me you have to replace the lifters

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