Question about 1997 Yamaha Royal Star XVZ 1300 A
U have to find out in ur book or place you bought bike from but sometime its the type of oil used that will cuz that some bikes have to have that synthated oil u HAVE to use or some bike cant have that fancy oil that would be a good place to start
Posted on Feb 11, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: blocked carb,how to clean
Pretty streight forward. Go to the site below and download a free PDF service manual. The one closest to your model is number 41 from the bottom of the list. It may not be yout exact model but it is the same year and engine size. Very strong chance that the engine and carbs are exactly what you have.
Drain the carburetors. There should be a screw on the lower side of each carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, (not all bikes have a water trap bowl). Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carbs to fill with gas. Install new stock NGK spark plugs and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetors from the engine.
FOR EACH CARB > Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.
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Posted on Apr 18, 2009
Sounds like the bike has been doing wheeles and burnouts. As the clutch plates wear the cable needs adjusting. You have reached the end of the actuating cam. New plates are your best bet.
Posted on Jul 02, 2009
Step (9)It's been a couple of years, maybe, and the fluid in the eye of the clutch-side reservoir looks more like mocha java than peachy chardonnay. Time for a flush-and-bleed job on the old hydraulic-clutch system?
Relax. It's a closed hydraulic system, just like the front and rear brakes. But why is the fluid brown (1)? The petroleum-based goo labeled DOT 3 or DOT 4 is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs water. That water eventually turns the fluid brown in a sort of plain-to-see maintenance check. Flat beer means replace the keg. Same deal here.
There are other reasons to give a hydraulic clutch some attention. Is the level in the reservoir going down quickly? Check the seal around the actuator. This guy lives in a tough environment--with the rubber O-ring that seals the slave cylinder contending with engine heat, road grime, excess chain lube and myriad other evils. Maybe the engagement point of the clutch moves erratically, or according to changes in the weather. Before you buy new clutch plates, check the actuating system.
Let's get on with it, then. You don't want more crummy DOT 3 or DOT 4 running through the system, so carefully evacuate the reservoir (2). We use those cheap nasal aspirators--parents know to look for these between the tippy cups and the Bag Balm--to **** out the goop. Then refill the reservoir with fresh fluid (3). Check the condition of the brake fluid you're using, too. Fluid left sitting in a previously opened container can be as contaminated as what you're trying to replace. So splurge: buy a new bottle.
Shift your attention to the slave cylinder. Sling your box-end wrench over the bleeder nipple and attach a length of clear plastic hose (4). Drop the free end of the hose in a suitable container (5).
Reach up and pump the clutch lever two or three times and then hold it to the bar (6). Crack the fitting (7); open it just enough to allow the fluid to move into the hose. It may take some time to know when to close the bleeder screw again. Unlike a brake system, there'll be no feedback at the lever to let you know when line pressure drops. Watch the hose carefully and close the bleeder an instant before you think the fluid will stop moving. If you don't, air bubbles and assorted grunge can be dragged back into the system through the bleeder.
Continue watching the hose until you see a change in the color of the fluid (8). Sometimes it's subtle--at least it will be if you haven't let this job go for too long. Keep bleeding the system in steps. Grip the clutch lever and pump two or three times, crack the bleeder screw, watch the line for bubbles, then close. Rinse and repeat for a healthy, shiny coat.
Track fluid level in the reservoir throughout the procedure. **** air into the system now and you've got to start all over again. Once all the old fluid and air bubbles are gone, fill the reservoir according to the markings (9). Because it's possible for the clutch lever to feel firm with air in the system, which will not allow the clutch to fully disengage, test your work by putting the bike in gear with the engine off. See if the clutch disengages enough to let the bike roll slightly. Wet clutches are grippy until the engine is running, but you should still be able to feel the difference. Finally, make double-sure the bleeder fitting is tight and you've cleaned up any spilled fluid because DOT 3 and DOT 4 are corrosive.
You can also attach a plastic tube to the bleed line and fill a cup/glass/Jar with the Dot 3 or Dot 4 fluid. This way you can pump the clutch slowly to rid the system of air bubbles. Make sure the reservoir does not **** air! As stated above or you will have to start the process over.
Posted on Oct 10, 2009
join delphi forums, they have many many tips for concerns, search for a royal star forum in there.....GREAT PEOPLE, i belong to the vstar rider one.
but look into replacing the weak clutch springs with heavy duty barnett springs, probably just weak.....
oil changes are with motorcycle wet clutch oil? auto engine oil has additives that will cause slippage .
Posted on Jan 22, 2010
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