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Hey Strech thanks again but my bike only has one terminal board and it has 9 places for connections and it bolts behind the coil right behind the back jug

Yeah it has 9 places for wires all the wires are there I just don't know which ones go together I could name them if that would help

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  • Motorcycles Master
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The wiring schematic shows 11 terminals (posts), but 2 aren't used, so 9 sounds about right.
Beings yours is probably mounted vertically, let's say #1 is at the top, and #9 is at the bottom.

#1 should have a VIOLET wire going to the LEFT REAR TURN SIGNAL (disregard all the turn signal info if you're not running turn signals), a BLACK wire going to the LEFT FRONT TURN SIGNAL, and a VIOLET wire going to the EMERGENCY FLASHER SWITCH. THREE WIRES TOTAL

#2 should have a BROWN wire going to the RIGHT REAR TURN SIGNAL, a BLACK wire going to the RIGHT FRONT TURN SIGNAL, and a BROWN wire going to the EMERGENCY FLASHER SWITCH.
THREE WIRES TOTAL

#3 should have an ORANGE wire going to the EMERGENCY FLASHER (NOT the flasher switch!), an ORANGE wire going to the DIRECTION SIGNAL FLASHER, an ORANGE wire going to the HORN SWITCH, an ORANGE wire going to the ACCESSORIES CIRCUIT BREAKER, and an ORANGE wire going to the FRONT STOP LIGHT SWITCH (this is a HOT lead, that powers all the above listed)
FIVE WIRES TOTAL

#4 should have a BLACK wire going to the STARTER BUTTON, and a BLACK wire going to the #3 lug of the STARTER RELAY. TWO WIRES TOTAL

#5 should have a GRAY wire going to the ENGINE STOP SWITCH (kill switch), and a GRAY wire going to the IGNITION CIRCUIT BREAKER.
TWO WIRES TOTAL

#6 should have a WHITE wire going to the HEADLIGHT, a WHITE wire going to the HEADLIGHT BEAM SWITCH (dimmer switch), and a WHITE wire, further on connected to a BLACK wire, going to the HIGH BEAM INDICATOR LIGHT.
THREE WIRES TOTAL

#7 should have a YELLOW wire going to the HEADLIGHT, and a YELLOW wire going to the HEADLIGHT BEAM SWITCH (dimmer switch)
TWO WIRES TOTAL

#8 should have a BLUE wire going to the HEADLIGHT BEAM SWITCH (this is the HOT lead), and a BLUE wire going to the LIGHTING CIRCUIT BREAKER.
TWO WIRES TOTAL

#9 (actually #10 on the wiring diagram, #s 9 and 11 are not used) should have a RED wire going to the FRONT STOP LIGHT SWITCH, and a RED wire going to BOTH the RED wire of the STOP LIGHT, AND the REAR STOP LIGHT SWITCH.
TWO WIRES TOTAL

Now, for the DISCLAIMER:

Your wiring might have been altered in the past, the colors might not be the same, and it is UP TO YOU to verify where/what the opposite ends of each wire connects to.
Again, the multimeter is handy for this.
Use it in OHM mode to act as a continuity tester.

ANYTIME you are working on the electrical system, ALWAYS disconnect the battery to avoid a short!!!!!

Fire back with more info if more info is needed. Hey Strech thanks again but my bike only has one t - fcbe980c-556a-4621-bd98-0351c17efeba.gif

Posted on Feb 10, 2014

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BIKE RAN GOOD BUT HAD BACK FIRE ONCE IN A WHILE REPLACED COIL RAN GOOD FOR 100 MILES SHUT IT OFF NOW HAVE NO SPARK TO PLUGS


Could be an ignition module. Check the coil first.

Check your pick-up sensor located inside the timing cover, behind the adjustor plate. If the filament is not intact you will have no spark.
A defective coil, cam position sensor, or stator will also cause a no spark condition.

First check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). THEN check the condition of the battery and do a voltage test
and recharge the battery if it is below 12.60V. THEN check the condition and tightness of the battery connections
and perform either a conductance test or a load test and replace the battery if and as necessary. THEN remove the spark plug cable from one of the spark plugs and remove the plug and visually check the condition of the plug. THEN attach the HT cable to a SPARK TESTER and clip the tester to the cylinder head bolt and crank the engine over looking for spark and repeat the procedure on the other cylinder also. Be aware that the Engine will not spark with both spark plugs removed, so when checking for spark, use a SPARK TESTER with both plugs installed.

Ignition Coil Primary Circuit Test
Remove the coil. THEN set your ohmmeter scale to RX1 and place ohmmeter leads on the primary coil windings A (front of coil) to B (middle of coil), B to C (front of coil) and check for primary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range is 0.5-0.7 ohms. If primary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.

Ignition Coil Secondary Circuit Test
With the ignition coil removed from the motorcycle and the ohmmeter set to the RX1K scale place the ohmmeter leads on the secondary coil windings B (middle terminal) to
R (rear secondary terminal/socket), B to F (front secondary terminal/socket) and check for secondary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range will be 5.5-7.5K ohms. If secondary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.

Test Results
A low resistance value indicates a short in the coil winding which requires coil replacement.

A high resistance value might indicate that there is some corrosion/oxidation of the coil terminals requiring the coil terminals to be cleaned and the resistance test then repeated and if after the test is repeated the resistance is still high after the terminals were cleaned the coil must be replaced.
If there is an infinite ohms or no continuity) resistance value the coil is open and must be replaced.

May 13, 2014 | 2001 Harley Davidson XL 1200 S Sportster...

1 Answer

Hey Strech thanks again there are six terminals on switch the red is on the one 10:00 and that is going to the circuit breaker underneath the dash the blue is on the one about 1:00 that also is going to...


The older Knuckleheads (and flatheads) and early Pans had 5 terminals, but later ones (like yours) had 6 terminals.

You keep saying the BLACK one goes back to the battery, but you haven't told me (I have only been ASSUMING) if it goes to the POSITIVE terminal of the battery, NOT the negative, correct?

IF the BLACK wire is in fact coming from the battery's POSITIVE side, hook it up to the 4 o'clock position - the jumper wire going from this terminal to the one at 1 o'clock IS NEEDED TO FUNCTION PROPERLY!

You stated, "the red is on the one 10:00 and that is going to the circuit breaker underneath the dash the blue is on the one about 1:00 that also is going to the circuit breaker"

Does this mean BOTH the RED and BLUE wires are going to the SAME circuit breaker?
If so, do they BOTH connect at the same circuit breaker terminal stud, or one to one stud (at one end of the circuit breaker), and the other to the other stud (at other end of circuit breaker)?

Feb 11, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

This question is for Strech.Hey bro you have give me a whole lot of information I know you are a very smart guy especially when it comes to bikes.So I don't know if you caught my question about the...


As far as the terminal board (terminal block, terminal plate) , I assume you mean something like this:

http://img.jpcycles.com/zoom/382-054_A.jpg

You may or may not be using all of the connections (they come in different standard lengths, and might have more connections than you need).

Now, I can't remember which wiring diagram I sent, so I'm starting over with this:

http://shovelhead.us/specs/wire/1976_FL_FLH.gif

The lower diagram is actually an continuation (to the right) of the upper diagram.

On the upper diagram, item #1 (to the right of the headlight, with little spots inside of it numbered 1 - 11) is the FRONT TERMINAL BOARD.

On the lower diagram, items # 17 - 20 comprise the REAR TERMINAL BOARD.

These show how many wires go to each terminal connection (example, terminal #3 in FRONT TERMINAL BOARD shows 5 wires connecting to that one terminal, #s 9 & 11 are not used).

Now your wire colors MIGHT not be stock.

In which case a multimeter would help you chase the wiring:

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html

Also, do you have a Fat Bob tank center dash ignition switch?

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTA5MVgxMjI2/$(KGrHqZHJDME63ZMWiUbBO3tGwQzH!~~60_35.JPG

Or a key switch mounted somewhere else?

http://demonscy.ipower.com/i_pics/ignition_17-124_1.jpg

If the dash switch, this might help:

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/931/dashswitchwiringdiagram.png

If a key switch, three wires would be:
1 - hot lead coming INTO switch
2 - lead going to ignition, brake light, instrumentation (for running without lights)
3 - lead going to lights (headlight, taillight) for ignition AND lights.

Hopefully, this will start you off.

Fire back with any questions

Feb 08, 2014 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Have a delcotron alternator ,what to know where no.1 terminal and no.2terminal wire goes it is on my 1946 cj2a jeep my amp hand does not show a charge had alternator checked out and is ok


  • Use a wrench to remove the negative and positive battery cables: They are clearly labeled "+" and "-." Always remove the negative cable first, as this isolates the power to the metal parts of your car. Tuck the cables away from the battery as you don't want them to accidentally touch a battery terminal when you're wiring your alternator.

  • 3

    Locate the alternator terminals. There are two: one marked "live," "pos" or "+" and the other marked "neg," "field" or "-."

  • 4

    Locate the two cables. The positive (red) cable goes to your battery via a wire loom or harness. The negative (black) cable attaches to a metal part of your car.

  • 5

    Check how the cables attach to the alternator terminals. Some connect using eyelets that hook over the terminal and tighten with a bolt; others connect by inserting the wire under the terminal and tightening a bolt.

  • 6

    Loosen the two bolts using a suitable-sized wrench or, if the cables connect using eyelets, remove the bolts.

  • 7

    Insert the exposed end of the negative (black) cable under the loosened bolt on the negative terminal of the alternator, then tighten the bolt. If the cable has an eyelet, hook it over the terminal and screw the bolt back in place and tighten using a wrench.

  • 8

    Insert the exposed end of the positive (red) cable under the loosened bolt on the positive terminal of the alternator, then tighten the bolt. If the cable has an eyelet, hook it over the terminal and screw the bolt back in place and tighten using a wrench.

  • 9

    Replace the positive battery cable on the positive battery terminal using a wrench. Replace the negative battery cable on the negative battery terminal.

  • May 17, 2011 | Jeep CJ Cars & Trucks

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    Seams to be that both sides of the coils are reading the same volt surely this isnot right


    Basic coil tests are for Primary and Secondary ohms (resistance) values and I.B. or an Insulation Break meaning you have a short.

    Refer to your owners manual for what type of coil you have. Different models have different ohms ranges.
    This test would be for a typical 3-5 ohms single lead externally grounded coil. You can usually identify an Externally grounded coil as they are grounded by the mounting fixture itself.
    TOOL REQUIRED - VOLTMETER that will read ohm values
    1. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE
    2. If the coil is in the bike disconnect wires from the two terminals to isolate it.
    3. Once you set your Voltmeter scale to ohms connect the red and black leads to each terminal. You should read between 3 and 5 ohms if that is the spec for your bike. You have now tested the primary circuit of your coil. If you read Infinity ohms replace the coil, you have an open circuit or break in your coil winding.
    4.Now take your black lead off one terminal and connect it to good ground, battery negative cable or non-painted frame bolt. Your meter should now read 0 or OFL (off line). If you do get a reading here your coil has a break in the insulation and is shorting out. Your only option here is to replace the coil.
    5. Repeat step 4. for the other secondary terminal. Red on terminal, black to ground. It should also read OFL.

    Another quick test option regardless of type of coil is to check Volts going to the coil with battery connected. If you have a 12vdc system and you are getting close to 12vdc at the coil terminal and nothing is coming out of the coil you either have a bad coil or connection.




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    I am writing you the method on how to change sparkplugs, you may now have an idea where spark plug is loacted.

    The Ford Expedition uses eight spark plugs to accommodateits eight-cylinder engine. Replacing the spark plugs every 75,000 miles is animportant part of overall vehicle maintenance. 1. Disconnectthe negative (black) battery cable from the battery terminal. Remove thewiring harnesses from the spark plug coils. There will be four on each side ofthe engine block, which you can remove by simply pulling them out of the sparkplug coils. 2. Unscrew the 7mm bolt from each of the spark plug coils usinga socket wrench and 7mm socket. 3. Pull each spark plug coil out of the engine block. Pull themout slowly, being careful not to damage or tear the coils. 4. Use a socket wrench and spark plug socket to unscrew eachspark plug from the engine block. Once you remove these, discard them. 5. Place the new spark plugs into the engine block and tightenthem using the socket wrench and spark plug socket. 6. Slide the spark plug coils back into the engine block. 7. Bolt the spark plug coils back into place using a socketwrench and 7mm socket. 8. Reattachthe wiring harnesses to the spark plug coils. 9 . Connect the negative battery cable to the negative batteryterminal.

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    What is the best way to remove the alternator from my 1998 voyager 3.3?


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    Oct 16, 2010 | Chrysler Voyager Cars & Trucks

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    Replacing a starter on a 1997 ford expedition


    STARTER - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
    4.2L, 4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L Engines



    c52c9ec.jpg Fig. 1 Remove the starter terminal cover


    3ff0983.jpg Fig. 2 Remove the cables from the starter terminals


    34cb6ab.jpg Fig. 3 If equipped, remove the ground cable retaining nut from the stud and remove the ground cable

    91d1b4b.jpg
    Fig. 4 Remove the two starter retaining bolts-4.2L engine shown

    3c036eb.jpg
    Fig. 5 Remove the two starter retaining bolts-4.6L engine shown, 5.4L and 6.8L engines similar
    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
    3. Remove the starter terminal cover.
    4. Remove the terminal nut and separate the battery starter cable from the starter motor.
    5. Disconnect the solenoid S terminal connector, if equipped with a starter mounted solenoid.

    To disconnect the hard-shell connector from the solenoid S terminal, grasp the plastic shell and pull off; do not pull on the wire. Pull straight off to prevent damage to the connector and S terminal.
    1. Remove the starter motor retaining bolts.
    2. Remove the starter motor from the vehicle.
    To install:
    1. Place the starter motor in position and install the starter motor retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm).
    2. Install the battery starter cable and a terminal nut to the starter motor. Tighten the terminal nuts to 79 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
    3. Connect the solenoid S terminal connector, if equipped with a starter mounted solenoid.
    4. Install the starter solenoid safety cap, if equipped.
    5. Lower the vehicle.
    6. Connect the negative battery cable.
    7. Start the engine several times to check starter motor operation.

    I hope thats helped (remember rated this).

    Feb 18, 2010 | 1997 Ford Expedition

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