Question about Motorcycles
As far as the terminal board (terminal block, terminal plate) , I assume you mean something like this:
You may or may not be using all of the connections (they come in different standard lengths, and might have more connections than you need).
Now, I can't remember which wiring diagram I sent, so I'm starting over with this:
The lower diagram is actually an continuation (to the right) of the upper diagram.
On the upper diagram, item #1 (to the right of the headlight, with little spots inside of it numbered 1 - 11) is the FRONT TERMINAL BOARD.
On the lower diagram, items # 17 - 20 comprise the REAR TERMINAL BOARD.
These show how many wires go to each terminal connection (example, terminal #3 in FRONT TERMINAL BOARD shows 5 wires connecting to that one terminal, #s 9 & 11 are not used).
Now your wire colors MIGHT not be stock.
In which case a multimeter would help you chase the wiring:
Also, do you have a Fat Bob tank center dash ignition switch?
Or a key switch mounted somewhere else?
If the dash switch, this might help:
If a key switch, three wires would be:
1 - hot lead coming INTO switch
2 - lead going to ignition, brake light, instrumentation (for running without lights)
3 - lead going to lights (headlight, taillight) for ignition AND lights.
Hopefully, this will start you off.
Fire back with any questions
Posted on Feb 08, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If there is a clicking noise when you hit the starter button, then the relay should be fine.
If there is no sound, check the fuses before removing the starter.
Posted on Feb 14, 2009
I have a 98 VF2 750C Magna with a similiar problem as stated above. The starter switch is a quad pole switch which runs your accessories with the key on and also starts the bike. With some care take the switch assy. apart and the head lamp assy. Find the wire harness connecting the switch to the head lamp by following it down the trunk of the steering column. Disconnect and clean any corrosion (use baking soda and water with a small brass or steel brush) blow dry with compressed air. Check with multimeter between the contacts on the switch and the associated pins on the plug (easy enough they are color coded). Check each contact between pins and then to ground by touching a solid metal object with one lead of multimeter. All the wires should have continuity to each pin if not you have an open in the wire harness between the switch and headlamp plug. The only wire that should check to ground is the Blue/white wire (ground wire). If any other wires check to ground you have a short to ground replace switch assy and harness (57.00 @ Honda Direct). Out side of these measures you can check between the forward to contacts on the switch and the associated pin in the headlamp while depressing the switch. If you have no continuity as I do then the internals of the switch are bad so replace switch assy. There is a new switch assy. available at Honda direct that replaces the old type found in your bike.
Hope this helps.
The problem is not in your CDI, Solenoid or Battery most likely since you can short the solenoid as seen by the switch you have installed and the bike starts and runs.
Posted on Apr 20, 2010
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