Question about Harley Davidson FLHRCI Road King Classic Motorcycles

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Mobil 1 gear oil in transmission foaming

I drained old fluid, it was clear..put in mobil 1 syn. 70-140 started the bike , let it run 5 min.. the new oil was foamy and milky looking.

Posted by Anonymous on


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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 42,943 Answers

Hi Anonymous, drain it and put in Harley davidson Syn 3 Good luck

Posted on Apr 28, 2015


6 Suggested Answers

  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: gear/clutch problem

does not seem like the waterpump. is the clutch set too loose?
usually in wire based clutches, if the clutch cable is set to be too loose, or if it is frayed, and needs replacement, the bike will jump and stall.
check that.

Posted on Dec 11, 2008

  • 431 Answers

SOURCE: 1992 kawasaki Vulcan 750 stops running

Sounds like what you realy need to do is remove the carb jets and give them a good clean , this if I am right is the twin V 8 valve engine with twin Klhein carbs , make sure also your air filter is not dirty and check tank fuel filter ,, other than that you may be intrested in the manuel obtainable from this site
hope this helps good luck .. and Live long and prosper lol .. Regards Vortash

Posted on May 12, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: bike starting problem

ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side or bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the
carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the
carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.

Please rate this solution. Thanks!

Posted on Jun 29, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Changin oil on a 2003 Ultra Classic

You drained the Transmission! The trans drain plug is behind the oil drain plug....!!!

Posted on Jul 21, 2009

  • 2702 Answers

SOURCE: Mobil 1 LS 75w-90 synth gear oil for final gear oil replacement?

use EP80 or EP90 gear oil only,,,,

Posted on Nov 21, 2009

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How many type of gear oil must I put in my MK4 golf, d transmission is automatic

you have automatic trans ?then any good quality trans fluid will work you can use systhic also ,you have engine and filter for the motor 10-30 ,5-30 or syn works well ,rear end oil or syn.and if its diesel engine ,also ask you volkswagon dealer and go by what they say to install there is also power steering oil for that and in your owners book it will tell you what to use and brake fluid also in the owners book

Apr 19, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Where and how do you put transmission fluid in a 2006 Freightliner Century with a Eaton Fuller manual transmission

Most manual transmissions don't use transmission fluid such as you would find in Automatic Transmissions... that I have ever heard of. They use a heavy grade multi-viscosity oil called, "gear oil}, especially made for manual transmissions. Typically, it's 70-90W SAE NGLI 4 or 5 grade oil pr maybe 90-110W SAE depending upon the mfr. To be sure, look at your owner's manual or use a Fleet Services catalog under one of big oil mfrs, like Shell, Ashland's Valvoline, Mobil, Quarter State, or Texaco. Usually, there is a large bolt at the sump, don't remove and drain out the fluid until you locate the fill access nut and can loosen it. Make sure your truck is on level ground. The fill access bolt is usually either a quarter inch square nut that you can turn with a 1/4" open-end wrench; however, some use an indented 1/4" or 1/2" indented square bolt/plug that you can use a suitably sized ratchet extension bar end with a ratchet to open. (Shorter length bar is often better for work in close quarters.) You will find the fill plug on one the side of the transmission casing, up high when your lying on your back underneath. Open the fill plug first, before you drain the transmission sump. Many transmission sump drain bolts have a thin metal washer on them that serve as a gasket... get a new one to replace the old one. Using the old one may cause a slow leak you won't be able to stop the very slow dripping on. The sump nut will have small pieces of metal filings on it, collected as the transmission gears wear... wipe off the magnetic underside of the bolt to clean it out with a rag. A toothpick works great at getting the fine metal particles off from around the edges. (Reminder: Take the fill port bolt off first and then drain the transmission sump by removing the sump nut.) After draining, put the "cleaned" sump bolt back on with the new washer. Ensure you have a short length of clear plastic tubing with you to push onto the open nozzle end of the gear oil container that is best cut with a carpet or box cutting razor with handle. (Remember to break the inner seal underneath the screw top nozzle.) (TIP: If there is little room to raise the bottle above the fill hole and squeeze it to empty it through the plastic tube into the fill port on the transmission, buy an extra quart of gear oil... it is easier to squeeze a full bottle and and top it up with another one as it gets too hard to squeeze when empty to make the oil come out..; go slow or you can squeeze so hard the nozzle will break and cover your hand with gear oil.) Fill the Manual Transmission case to the point where gear oil starts to trickle out of the fill hole and then put the square bolt back in with the open-end wrench or ratchet extension bar end. (TIP: Using an extension bar end is preferable to just a ratchet tip as it adds leverage to make the removal easier.)

Apr 10, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to put gear oil in Honda civic hatchback 1992

gear oil filler is usually under the car on the transmission itself. the lowest screw or hole must be the drain plug/screw. you have to drain the old oil first, close the drain then pour in the new transmission oil.

read the owner's manual for fluid capacities.

Oct 14, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 2004 xl883 converted to 1200 need to change the fluids. does the transmission and the primary use the motor oil that you are putting in bike or is it differant. and when you drain oil and...

You engine uses three quarts of 20W50 oil. The primary and transmission share the same oil and it uses about a quart of oil. One the late model Big Twins, you can use H-D's Syn 3 in all areas. Not sure about the Sportster. I've always used the H-D primary/transmission lubricant for Sportsters. If you wish to use any other brand of lubricant, you need to go to their website and check to see what they say use in what area. Some of the other popular lubricants are Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobil V-Twin, and Red Line.

Good Luck

Jun 26, 2011 | Harley Davidson XL Sportster 883...

2 Answers

Changing transmission fluid


changing transmission fluid a messy job because there's no drain plug to change the fluid, but you can do it yourself if you're so inclined. To change the fluid, you have to get under your vehicle and remove the pan from the bottom of the transmission.
When you loosen the pan, fluid will start to dribble out in all directions so you need a fairly large catch pan. You should also know that removing the pan doesn't drain all of the old fluid out of the transmission. Approximately a third of the old fluid will still be in the torque converter. There's no drain plug on the converter so you're really only doing a partial fluid change. Even so, a partial fluid change is better than no fluid change at all.
A typical fluid change will require anywhere from 3 to 6 quarts of ATF depending on the application, a new filter and a pan gasket (or RTV sealer) for the transmission pan. The pan must be thoroughly cleaned prior to reinstallation. This includes wiping all fluid residue from the inside of the pan and scraping all traces of the old gasket from the pan's sealing surface. Don't forget to clean the mounting flange on the transmission, too.
When the new filter is installed, be sure it is mounted in the exact same position as the original and that any O-rings or other gaskets have been properly positioned prior to tightening the bolts. Then tighten the bolts to the manufacturer's recommended specs.
When refilling the transmission with fresh fluid, be careful not to allow any dirt or debris to enter the dipstick tube. Using a long-neck funnel with a built-in screen is recommended.
CAUTION: Do not overfill the transmission. Too much fluid can cause the fluid to foam, which in turn can lead to erratic shifting, oil starvation and transmission damage. Too much fluid may also force ATF to leak past the transmission seals.
Add half a quart at a time until the dipstick shows full. The transmission really isn't full yet because the dipstick should be checked when the fluid is hot, and the engine is idling with the gear selector in Park. So start the engine, drive the vehicle around the block, then recheck the fluid level while the engine is idling and add fluid as needed until the dipstick reads full.

Take care and good luck

Oct 26, 2010 | Toyota MR2 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What type of oil and how much does the 92 VT1100 use?

You will need to get 4 quarts of JASO MA rated motorcycle oil, a filter, and a drain bolt washer. Get 10w-40 for cold climate or 20w-50 for warm climate/long distance riding.Do not use any oil that says Energy Conserving on the label , it will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. Synthetic oil will make your bike run cooler and shift easier.Drain the old oil and put the drain bolt back in with a new washer. Change the filter and pour in 3 1/2 quarts of oil. Start the bike and run for a minute. Check the oil level and top up as needed.

Oct 01, 2010 | 1992 Honda VT 1100 C Shadow

1 Answer

I have never changed the oil. I have a 2005 harley-dvidson road glide and I need to see the service manuals pictures of the oil pan drain and the transsion drain plugs.

There are 2 plugs (5/8 head) 1 on left horizonal is engine oil, 1 on right going up is transmission just let the bike warm up for 5 mins then undo the one on the left and let the oil drain for a couple of mins once drained retighten plug back in cleaning it before then on the right side casing is a plug unscrew this and refill with oil untill its 3/4 full on sight glass and do the same with the transmission fluid but it may have a dip stick like in a car the plug is on the left buddy anymore info get back to me

Sep 22, 2009 | 2005 Harley Davidson FLTRI Road Glide

1 Answer

I have just got a 2005 883 hd sportster please tell me how many quarts of oil and the type of oil i need. How to drain and fill oil

The drain hose attaches to the frame at the bottom rear. Make sure the bike is at running temp before draining the oil. I use 20-50 mobile 1 full syn, 3 quarts. You must put 4 ozs in the filter to prime the system. After you drain the oil make sure you look in the oil tank before you refill it there is a tendency not to drain all of the old oil. If it dosen't all drain use a turkey baster to **** out as much of the old oil as you can. When you refill the tank you want the oil to come about midway between the lines on the dip stick. If you fill it to the top line you will get a lot of blow by out of your air filter.

Apr 04, 2009 | 2005 Harley Davidson XL 883L Sportster

4 Answers

98 fatboy engine noise.

Harley's do run hot, anywhere from 220 to 240 normally, and a little hotter this time of year. I suggest running a straight weight oil, and a little heavier weight in the summer. I use Valvoline VR-1 30 weight most of the year, and 50 or 60 weight in the hot summer, and I use Lucas 20w50 primary/trans for the primary and tranny. I don't bother with the extremely high prices of the HD oils. For the whining noise, you need to determine which side of the engine it's coming from. Whining will almost always be in the bottom end. There's nothing in the top end that should whine, and if there is whining from the top, it's usually an air leak around the carb. Start by checking the fluid levels in the tranny, and primary. These are the two most common areas to pick up a whining noise. If it's coming from the left, it's going to be in the primary, and usually this is caused by low fluid levels. From the right, it's going to be either the tranny, low fluid, or the oil pump. The oil pump is a gear type system. If you're running a light weight oil, say a 10w40 or HD 20w50, when the engine heats up and the oil thins, it can cause the oil pump gears to whine a bit, especially in the summer heat. So, check the fluid levels, if they check good, then change the oil, since the summer is coming to an end, go with a straight 30 weight. This should clear up the whining noise. If it doesn't, get back to me with the exact location the noise is coming from, and we'll go to the next level of diagnosing the whine, but I believe that this will cure it.

Aug 22, 2008 | Harley Davidson Harley-Davidson Motorcycle...

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