Manual yamaha dt 175

SOURCE: Yamaha Fazer 600 - keeps breaking against me when riding

I suspect poor fuel delivery or starvation. At those rpms your bike requires a lot of fuel.Replace any and all fuel filters, check fuel lines for any kinks. Drain tank (petcock on pri ) then remove and clean petcock , replace. Run a bottle of techroline thru your next couple tanks of gas....Good Luck to you my friend...Tim

SOURCE: how do i remove the magneto flywheel from a yamaha

You will need a flywheel puller, ( dealer can sell you one > low cost ), and a hammer.
Remove the nut and washer holding the flywheel. Now screw the puller into the flywheel as far as it will easily go. Be sure to back off the pullers' center screw when mounting puller. Tighten the center screw REALLY tight then firmly strike the center of the puller screw with a medium size hammer. Alternate tightening the center screw and striking with the hammer. To tighten the center screw you will want to strike the screw handel with medium hammer force. A few blows with the hammer should pop the flywheel.
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SOURCE: what type of clutch oil should i use thanks

10w40 is what you want for the gear box. Yamalube two stroke engine oil is what you want for the small oil resevoir side cover

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SOURCE: Yamaha Enduro Clutch not engaging

i actuall have a yamaha enduro 100 and had this same problem.
First thing is take the clutch apart take all the rings out and clean them good with momry cloth assemble the clutch compleatly as it came out and when tighting the springs tight them all one turn at a time and after everytime you go around try to move youre clutch with youre bike in gear. if it trys to move it is engageing just keep turning the screws untill they stop. also recomend putting threadlocker on the drive gear bolt and the clutch bolt that holds the clutch on. if you have and questions just e-mail me at [email protected] just make shure to tell me that i responded to youre fixya question about youre bike and i will walk you threw it.

ps just rember to put the clutch pushrod back in

SOURCE: 1975 yamaha DT 175 it floods when the gas tank

I had the same problem - actually more than one problem:
1) Floats in the carburetor bowl (at the bottom of the carb) are getting stuck. Remove the carb; carefully disassemble the bowl & float assembly (pay attention to gasket orientation and don't lose the needle valve that the float-tab presses on!); use a carb cleaner from AutoZone or similar, and a toothbrush to clean all the parts. If carb is not too dirty, leave the jets and mixture-adjust screws alone (otherwise will have to re-adjust later).

2) Overflow tube is plugged (hence fuel in the cylinder instead of on the ground). Clean both ends of the brass-looking tube from inside and outside the carb bowl. Make sure you can blow through it or it is still plugged. Toothbrush and carb cleaner should do the trick. Replace the short flexible tubing that connects to the overflow on the outside of the bowl - transparent polyurethane tubing is less than $1 per foot at your local ATV/motorcycle shop.

3) Air Vent tube is plugged. Same thing as the Overflow tube but mounted higher up in the carb (not in the bowl). Clean it the same way and replace the flex tubing with another short piece of polyurethane.

4) Make sure the float-tab and needle-valve move smoothly. Mine was catching and getting stuck so I carefully "polished" the face of the tab with 400-grit emery paper, and then made sure to clean the area from grit. Smooth as a hot knife through butter now.

5) Set the float level by CAREFULLY bending the tab that pushes on the needle valve. On my 1981 175MX, float height spec is 21mm when just making contact with the needle. Yours may be different though.

6) Reassemble the carb after making sure all dirt and debris are gone. Use a new bowl gasket or at least put a good gasket-sealer compound on the old gasket. Attach the short lengths of transparent polyurethane tubing to the Overflow and Air Vent. When installing the carb, the Air Vent tube should just be 2" long and point out to the side; the Overflow tube should route through the frame near the swing-arm and point down to the ground.

7) MAKE SURE the Oil Feed tube coming from the AutoLube oil pump is connected to the carb (brass-looking fitting toward the cylinder-end). I replaced mine with transparent polyurethane tubing (different size than the Air Vent and Overflow), so now I can see that oil is being presented to the carb!

8) If the carb was nasty-dirty, you may need a new air filter. Mine was disintegrating. I recommend also putting an in-line fuel filter between the petcock and the carb, again using short lengths of TRANSPARENT polyurethane tubing (so you can see that fuel is flowing). You may also need to adjust & prime the AutoLube oil pump.

I highly recommend getting a Clymer manual (check eBay) which shows all these procedures and gives you the right specs for float height, etc. based on your model / year.