Question about 2008 Suzuki GSX-R 600

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WHen I pull the clutch lever in on my 2008 gsxr600 the clutch will not inguage. I have adjusted both ends of the cable. Could this prevent it from not starting?

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Hi prock,

you have a possible problem with the clutch lining or the engagement assembly of the clutch. getting the line too tight will get the clutch in too deep preventing the bike from starting.

best bid is to have it checked by your dealer and let the warranty work for your side.

regards,

voodoo

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

  • Mariosar Jul 05, 2011

    Hi,
    I'm riding a Suzuki GSX R600 2010, and when I press the clutch lever I feel its too tight. How can I solve this??

    Thanks!!

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1 Answer

How do I adjust a new clutch cable on a 2005 Yamaha v star 1100?


The normal method is once the cable is lubed and located at the engine and lever ends, the cable adjusters at both ends need to be adjusted to give the correct inner cable slack. I normally apply grease to the outer sheath metal crimps (this ensures they move in the adjusters). I then make sure the engine end adjuster has a small amount of clearance between it and the clutch rod. The final adjustments are then made using the cable adjusters at the lever and engine ends. You need to have about 10mm free play at the lever end. Check the manufacturers hand book for the exact dimension. Please make sure you route the cable the same as the old one, also when you pull in the lever it should close quite sharply when released. If it returns slowly or is stiff to operate then recheck cable route and try adding more lube to the inner cable.

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1 Answer

1st and 2nd gear keep jumping out of gear


You may want to make sure the clutch cable is properly adjusted. At the clutch lever on the handlebars, pull back the rubber cover over the end of the cable where it goes into the lever. You'll find a round lock wheel that you tighten to prevent the clutch cable adjustment from moving. Loosen that wheel then you can turn the clutch cable adjustment in or out to adjust the clutch engagement and take up. For those bikes, you want to adjust it so that there is a small amount of slack in the clutch lever. Look at the "crack" where the lever pivots when you pull on it. Adjust the clutch cable by turning that adjustment in or out until you have just barely enough opening to slip a nickel edge into the very outside of that "crack" when you apply very, very light pressure to the clutch lever (just enough pressure to take the slack out of the lever). Tighten the lock wheel back into place and try it now. Also, make sure you are using a good, FIRM foot pressure to engage each gear. If you don't engage firmly enough or the adjustment is out, then it will pop out of gear. You notice it more on the lower gears because the lower gears allow the engine to send more torque thru the clutch, thereby providing more force to make it pop out of gear.

If this doesn't help, then take it to a shop to see if it's simple worn clutch disks (easy to replace on this bike) or if the gears have worn teeth in the transmission.

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How do i fit a clutch cable to a honda cbr 125?


The clutch cable is fitted to the lever and the clutch arm on the top of the crank case beside the oil cap. Remove old cable (remove side fairing if you need to for access to cable end) slacken the new cable adjusters as much as possible fit to the clucth arm on the engine and fit to its seat route the cable the same as the old one up to the clutch lever, fit the cable end to the lever, hold the cable sleve tight pull the lever to strech the cable and drop into the lever seat, adjust the cable for 2mm of free play at the lever before the cable is pulled

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1 Answer

I own a 2008 Hyosung GT 650 and never had any issues until now. At first all I had to do was pull back on the clutch lever and start the motorcycle...no problem. Then I had to let off a little bit to get...


Hi, Paul_nason the ignition circuit cut-off system comprising of the side stand switch, clutch switch and neutral switch has the following functions:
a. It prevents starting when the transmission is in gear and the side stand is up, but the clutch lever is not pulled.
b. It prevents starting when the transmission is in gear and the clutch lever is pulled, but the side stand is still down.
c. It cuts the running engine when the transmission is in gear and the side stand is moved down.
Periodically check the operation of the ignition circuit cut-off system according to the following tests.
With the engine turned off:
1. Move the side stand down.
2. Make sure that the engine stop switch is set to "RUN"
3. Turn the key to "ON".
4. Shift the transmission into the neutral position.
5. Push the start switch if the engine does not start the neutral switch may be faulty.
With the engine still running:
6. Move the side stand up.
7. Keep the clutch lever pulled.
8. Shift the transmission into gear.
9. Move the side stand down if the engine does not stall you may have a faulty side stand switch.
After the engine has stalled:
10. Move the side stand up.
11. Keep the clutch lever pulled.
12. Push the start switch if the engine does not start you may have a faulty clutch switch.
This check is most reliable if performed with a warmed-up engine.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
2008 GT650R Wont start
Troubleshooting Starting Cranking Problems on Hyosung Motorcycle
HYOSUNG GT 650 Service Manual
https://www.alpha-sports.com/Parts/H_GT650R.htm
HYOSUNG GT650 Owner Manual
HYOSUNG GT650 PARTS CATALOGUE Parts Catalog

May 02, 2017 | 2008 Hyosung GT650

1 Answer

My gsxr600 2008 sometimes doesnt select neutral


If it is hard to get to neutral meaning you feel undue resistance and it skips past neutral into 2nd gear, check your clutch adjustment. It sounds like the transmission parts that are supposed to be stationary when you pull in the clutch are still moving from clutch drag.

Jun 27, 2011 | Suzuki Monster 1100 Motorcycles

1 Answer

Riding yesterday and clutch cable went, felt like a rubber band breaking. Had a look today, not broken at either end. Can I fix this myself?


Sure you can fix it yourself. First lets make sure the cable is broke. When you pull in the clutch does the other end of the cable move?
If not then disconnect the cable from the lever and pull on the end by hand. Did you just pull a broken cable out of the sleeve?
If so then purchase a new cable and replce the broken one paying particular attention to the way it is routed. place the adjuster on the lever end a tad less than half way. Adjust the clutch end of the cable to take up the slack. Work the lever 3 times ( to seat everything) and use the adjuster at the lever for final adjustment. You want about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of play at the end of the lever befor the cable starts to actuate the clutch arm. Adjust and lock.

Dec 30, 2009 | 1998 kawasaki ZZR 250

1 Answer

How do you adjust the clutch. Mine doesn't completely disengage when I shift gears. Too much play in the clutch handle.


You need to adjust the clutch cable adjustment for the clutch handle, THEN adjust the clutch itself.

1.First go to the clutch cable. Halfway down the cable is a rubber boot. Pull the rubber boot up the cable, (Or down. Pull it. Do NOT push), until it clears the adjustment. (The adjustment is a hex shaped piece, that is made of two parts. It's called a Barrel)
Use a 9/16 inch open end wrench, and a 1/2 inch open end wrench. Loosen the lock nut until you have around 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch clearance, of slack in the handle.
(Where the clutch lever, touches the clutch lever mount on the handlebars)

2.Now open the derby cover.
(The round cover on the back of your primary cover. Not to insult your intelligence. This -> https://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=02649&store=&catId=&productId=p02649&leafCatId=&mmyId=
<-shows a custom primary inner, and outer cover. The derby cover is the round cover all the way to the right, on this custom primary cover. You can click on the photo to enlarge)

You will then see a single threaded stud, (Adjuster screw), in the middle of the clutch pressure plate.
This adjuster screw has a nut on it, to lock the screw from turning. (Jam nut)
Hold the stud end,(adjuster screw). from turning with a large flat tip screwdriver,
(May have changed to a small square end, that you use an open end wrench on), loosen the jam nut with an open end wrench.

Turn the adjuster screw in, until there is 1/8th inch slack of the clutch lever, to the clutch lever mount.
(The clutch lever mount is the part that attaches to the handlebars. The clutch lever is the part you squeeze in with your hand. The slack is the small space in-between the clutch lever, where it touches the clutch lever mount)

Now turn the adjuster screw out 1/2 turn. Tighten the jam nut. (Make sure you hold the adjuster screw in that place you set, as you tighten the jam nut. DON'T let the adjuster screw turn as you tighten the jam nut!)

3.Now tighten the lock nut, (Jam nut), on the adjustment barrel for the clutch cable. You should grease the threads of this adjustment barrel to prevent corrosion in the future. Pull the rubber boot back into place.

4.Replace the derby cover gasket as these will leak like a sieve. Replacing this gasket is cheap insurance. Install the derby cover, tighten the derby cover screws evenly. (Go to one screw, tighten until it touches. Then go to another screw, and do the same. After all three are touching, snug them down one turn at a time, going from screw to screw)

This is a thin cover. If you don't tighten the screws evenly, you can cause this thin cover to warp, and be the cause of a constant annoying oil drip.

Jul 13, 2009 | 2002 Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide

1 Answer

Clutch Cable Snapped


Hook the cable on the case lever then route the cable to the clutch handle. Turn the adjuster lock wheel all the way to the outer end of the adjuster then turn the adjuster all the way into the lever mount. This makes the adjuster as short as possible. Line up the cut-outs in the adjuster and the lock wheel to the cut-out in the lever mount. Hook the end of the inner cable into the clutch handle. Now pull the outer casing of the cable to the end of the adjuster. If the cable end isn't long enough to slide into the end of the adjuster then put the end of the outer cable on the adjuster shaft at the lock wheel and pull the clutch lever in. Now quickly release the lever while pulling the outer cable to the end of the adjuster. Normally it will pop into place so you can set the clutch lever 1/4" end play. You may need to try it a few times until you get it.

A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks!

Jun 21, 2009 | 1981 kawasaki Csr 1000

1 Answer

I would like to see exactly where you would adjust the clutch cable.demonstrate please.


Start at the clutch cable, loosen the locknut and screw the cable in so that there are no threads showing (till the adjuster touches the locknut.

You have to remove the derby cover (the big round cover with 5 screws on the outer primary) so the bike has to be sitting upright or the primary fluid will leak out.

Remove the derby cover, get an 11/16 (i think) socket and loosen the lock nut on the end of the clutch basket (use a hammer to tap the ratchet and loosen the nut).

Unsrew the nut a few turns and get an allen wrench (I forget what size but find one that will fit in the end of the rod that you just loosened up the nut on)

Using the allen key turn the rod in untill the clutch just start to engage, stop there then turn the allen 1/2 a turn out then using the ratchet and socket tighten the lock nut on the end of the clutch basket (tap the ratchet with a hammer to tighten so that the rod you just adjusted 1/2 a turn out does not move.

Now go back to the clutch cable and screw the cable back out so that you can see the clutch lever start to tighten up. Adjust the cable so that when you grab and pull the cable just before the lever you get a space just wide enough to slip a quarter into. So where the cable goes into the lever you want a little freeplay, the correct freeplay is 1/16 to 1/8, about the width of a quarter. Tighten the locknut on the clutch cable and put the derby cover back on.

Thats all there is to it, I hope this is clear enough, any questions just ask.

Here is the instructions from the manual:

1. Position motorcycle on a suitable lift, upright and level.
Point front wheel straight ahead.
2. Remove five TORX screws with captive washers to detach
clutch inspection cover from primary chaincase cover.
3. Remove and discard seal.
4. See Figure 1-20. Add free play to cable.
a. Slide rubber boot (1) off cable adjuster.
b. Holding cable adjuster (2) with 1/2 in. wrench, loosen
jam nut (3) using a 9/16 in. wrench.
c. Turn cable adjuster (2) until there is a large amount
of free play at clutch hand lever.
5. See Figure 1-21. Loosen jam nut (1) on clutch adjuster
screw (2). To take up all free play, turn screw inward
(clockwise) until lightly seated. Activate the clutch lever to
verify the balls are seated in the ramps.
6. Back out adjusting screw (counterclockwise) 1/2 to 1 full
turn.Tighten jamnut to 72-120 in-lbs (8.1-13.6 Nm), while
holding adjusting screw with an Allen wrench.
7. Squeeze clutch lever to maximum limit three times, to set
ball and ramp release mechanism.
8. Check free play.
a. Turn cable adjuster away from jam nut until slack is
eliminated at hand lever.
b. See Figure 1-22. Pull clutch cable ferrule (2) away
from clutch lever bracket (3) to check free play. Turn
cable adjuster as necessary to obtain 1/16-1/8
in. (1.6-3.2 mm) free play between end of cable ferrule
and clutch lever bracket.
9. Hold adjuster with 1/2 in. wrench. Using 9/16 in. wrench,
tighten jam nut against cable adjuster. Cover cable
adjuster mechanism with rubber boot.

10. Install clutch inspection cover and new seal as follows:
a. Thoroughly wipe all lubricant from cover mounting
surface and groove in chaincase.
b. Position new seal (1) in groove in primary chaincase
cover and press each of the nubs on seal into the
groove. The nubs will retain seal in position.
c. Insert screw (with captive washer) through clutch
inspection cover and carefully thread it into the top
cover screw hole.
d. Start the remaining four screws (with captive
washers).
e. Alternately tighten screws to 84-108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2
Nm) following torque sequence shown in Figure 1-23.

Jun 10, 2009 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHRC Road King...

3 Answers

Clutch not disengaging completely when handle pulled completely. Wants to tug me across parking lot. Hard to shift at slow speed. to find neutral shut it off.


either your clutch needs to be adjusted or your clutch has something in it preventing it from fully releasing. either way its best to take it to the shop or someone who knows how to properly inspect the primary case. in my case, a plate fell apart and the rivets were in between the clutches.

May 04, 2009 | 2006 Harley Davidson XL 1200 L Sporster...

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