Question about 2001 Buell Blast
You probably have the clutch too tight - so it isn't released all the way. you might have already smoked your clutch tho.
Posted on Nov 06, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hello chopper...glad to see a Buell owner, sorry to hear you are having problems. I have a 2000 Thunderbolt.
When you adjusted your clutch did you adjust it both places..one behind the rubber boot for cable adjustment and the other behind the primary cover?
Also check inside your primary and look for anything that might be rubbing where it shouldn't. New noises are often caused by a new occurence. Also look for metal shavings in your primary fluid and make sure it's full.
Good luck...hope this helps
Posted on May 23, 2009
Your clutch needs to be adjusted. Before you adjust it at the lever you must adjust the clutch itself.
On the primary cover is the clutch inspection cover just behind the driver footpeg bracket. Unfortunately to get to it you must remove the Y-bracket and it's a PITA. The nuts that hold it are in a tight space under the seat just below the base of the fuel tank. Before you remove the bracket completely, just loosen the nuts as far as you can without removing them. You may have enough play to pull the bracket out of the way of the clutch inspection cover.
3 allen head screws hold the inspection cover in place. Be careful not to damage the paper gasket. You should be able to reuse it but to be safe, get yourself an extra before performing the adjustment. It's cheap insurance.
With the cover off you will be able to see the face of the clutch pack. In the center is a stamped steel nut held in place with a spring. It is a type of lock nut that will keep the clutch from readjusting itself. Simply pull this out (nut & spring) and set it aside.
In the center you will now see a shaft with a slot in it. This is where you will make the clutch adjustment. Using a regular screw driver simply turn the shaft clockwise until it firmly seats. Do not crank it down hard! Snug it down once, back it out a turn, then snug it down again. Once snugged down, back it out only 1/4 turn.
Replace the lock nut and spring being careful not to tighten or loosen the adjustment you made any more than needed to get the nut to seat inside the clutch. Once the cover is in place the spring will press against the lock nut keeping it secured.
Make sure where the gasket sits is clean before replacing the gasket and inspection cover. Do nut over tighten the 3 screws that hold the cover. It is only aluminum that they are threading into.
Replace/tighten the Y-bracket for the pegs back into place. If you do not have small hands it might be a good idea to have a small-handed person available to assist you in getting the nuts back on the bracket bolts and hand tightened as much as possible for you.
Now that the clutchis adjusted, you can make adjustments to the cable itself to get the free play out of the clutch lever. The cable adjustment is made at the adjuster located roughly halfway between the lever and the bottom of the bike. It's covered by a rubber boot that keeps out dirt and moisture. Carefully pull the boot to expose the adjustment nuts. The clutch lever is considered properly adjusted when there is 1mm of play between the lever and where it hits the stop near the pivot bolt.
It's really an easy job but don't try to adjust it only at the cable. Adjusting the clutch pack itself it really a breeze and even your shifting should be a little smoother. Good luck! =)
Posted on Jun 22, 2009
make sure carb is cleaned properly, throttle cables adjusted properly, idle is set properly all of this iaw a buell service manual! Buell Blasts do not have a sump; the oil after it has warmed is the actual level; after it sits a few days the oil "sumps" into the crankcase and indicates a low or in your case a proper level. this is a common occurance on HDxl motors and buells. the proper way to check your oil is after the bike is warmed and either on the stand or upright and level depending on year and model. Refer to your owners manual or service manual. if carb is cleaned and adjusted properly investigate for intake leaks. main jet doesn't contribute to fuel delivery until about 2500+ rpm on the blast; if it is stalling before that point check slow jet; you will theoretically be checking/cleaning all jets and the vacuum piston/ diaphram. engines are engines, however all brands have specific nuances and should be worked on by make specific techs. if you are planning on doing your own work get a manual, you will be surprised how much you learn and how easy it will be....T
Posted on Jul 09, 2009
Either fuel filter is clogged or air filter is clogged or carb/fuel injectors need to be thuroughly cleaned
Posted on Oct 12, 2009
Testimonial: "It ended up being the Carb needed a good cleaning. Thanks!! J"
Yamaha has a curved washer style clutch spring that it uses for this model. These have been prone to slipping from day 1. Normally when you get on the throttle hot and heavy. A new spring will help the situation for a while but you may have to replace the clutch pack to get more pressure through out the clutch pack if the bike has high miles on it. Maybe the dealer would know if the VMAX spring is heavier and would work as a replacement.
Posted on Apr 25, 2010
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