Carburetor Choke for carburetor

The front choke on a motorcycle is typically used to help start the engine by enriching the fuel mixture when the engine is cold. The choke is usually controlled by a lever or button located near the throttle, and is typically only needed when starting the engine from a cold state.

To connect the front choke on a 2000 Suzuki Intruder 1400, you will need to locate the choke cable and follow it to the carburetor or throttle body. The choke cable will typically have a small lever or plunger at the carburetor end, which is connected to the choke mechanism inside the carburetor or throttle body.

To connect the choke cable, you will need to attach one end of the cable to the lever or button near the throttle, and the other end to the lever or plunger at the carburetor end. Make sure the cable is properly seated in the levers or plungers and can move freely.

It's important to note that every motorcycle is different, and the specific choke mechanism on a 2000 Suzuki Intruder 1400 may differ from the general information I have provided. If you are having difficulty connecting the choke on your motorcycle, it is always best to consult a service manual or a wiring diagram specific to your make and model.

If the spark is ok Fuel uel supply is next. The carburetors on these chain saws can really drive you crazy.
Before you touch the carburetor adjustments use some starting fluid directly squirted into the carburetor input with the choke on half choke. Pull several times. If the engine starts or tries to start the carburetor is the problem. Now you have 2 options. A) rebuild or B) replace. Here is the rub You will not find the correct L/H needle screw adjustments. (now restricted by the EPA) If the replacement carburetor is a Walbro go to the Walbro website
http://www.walbro.com/service-manuals/. Find your carburetor and download the info for your carburetor. Remember I told you not to touch the needle adjustments ok it's time now. assuming the are at the factory preset slowly turn each in and note the number of turns of each. This should be the setting of the replacement carburetor. If the settings were disturbed follow the guidelines in the Walbro service manual for your carburetor. Make ONLY !/8 turn adjustments at a time. Depending on your chainsaw model follow the manufacture starting instructions. I have found if it says pull 5 times on full choke then go to half choke and start do that. If you pull the plug and check It should be dry not wet if you pull with the choke on full and the plug our you should smell the fuel mixture. reinsert the plug and try starting again. Good Luck

Carburetor needs to be rebuilt. I won't even think twice about. the diaphram is on it's way out.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/anthony_e4f197748c31eabd

This generator is equipped with an auto choke. What is likely occurring is as the engine warms up the choke is returning to the normal choke off run position leaning the mixture two lean to maintain operation of the motor.

This is occurring because the residual fuel that was left in the carburetor has evaporated and the gum residue is reducing the fuel flow through the carburetor. When the choke is applied the mixture is rich enough to support running and as the choke returns on its own to the run position the mixture leans out and the generator stalls..

Override the choke when the engine is starting to falter to confirm the problem. Continuing to attempt to run the engine possibly adding a carburetor cleaner additive to the gas will likely return the unit to normal operation.

If attempting to enrich the mixture by applying choke when the engine begins to falter does not work then a fuel flow problem to the carburetor may be the root cause. I would look for a plugged fuel filter or restricted fuel flow from the tank to the carburetor. What is happening is when the unit is at rest the carburetor is filling with gas and as it is running because of a restricted fuel flow the level lowers in the carburetor bowl resulting in a mixture to lean to run.

hi
i do not know what motorcycle you have ?
but i detect you may have a choke problem
some motorcycles have a manual choke
and some have an automatic choke

automatic choke comes on with the ignition and
goes off when the motorcycle gets to normal running temperature
hopefully it could be a just a relay that operates your choke
but the other problem with automatic chokes are
if the motorcycle is only used for short journey's
it does not give the bike chance to get up to normal running temperature
eventually the choke will seize up in the closed position
this will make it feel like the engine is choking out as you described
to repair this you will need to remove the carburetor's find out where the choke is
take it apart and clean it up and reassemble the choke mechanism and reassemble the carburetors
refit them to the motorcycle

if your choke is a manual choke
there is a good chance your choke is seized in the closed position
if so it means that the bar between your carburetors that operates the choke has seized
to repair this take the carburetors off
find the bar that operates the choke
and spray some fine oil and move it around until it frees off the mechanism
then refit the carburetors to the bike and give it another go

good luck
ride safe

Sounds as if your choke is hanging up, or not opening at all. With the engine warm remove the air cleaner, there is a butterfly valve right inside the top of the carburetor If this is closed or mostly closed your choke needs to be adjusted. There are manual and electric chokes, yours should be an electric choke. First with engine cold and the key turned to on check for voltage at the choke wires. If you have voltage, then you might just need to adjust your choke. Electric chokes heat up an element inside the choke to tighten a spring and open the choke butterfly valve at the top of the carburetor. There should be between 4 and 5 screws that hold a ring around the choke housing on the side of the carburetor with the wires going to it. While holding the round choke housing in place loosen all of the screws on the retaining ring. If you can feel the choke housing wanting to spin turn it the opposite way that it wants to turn. Do this in stages until your choke butterfly valve is open with the key turned on, or the engine warm. Hope this helps if you have more questions just ask.

you di not say what kind of car or truck. could use some more details. it sounds like your carburetor choke is stuck on. you will have to have the carburetor choke replaced and or the whole carburetor rebuilt or replaced. the choke may be 50 bucks plus labor and a carburetor is 300 plus labor.

It is not listed as a replacement part on the carburetor. You would have to remove the choke plate, and the choke shaft from the carburetor. These parts are press-fitted into the carb housing and the choke lever is also press fitted onto the choke plate shaft.

If the choke has to be on for the engine to run then there is a lean fuel mixture problem, and chek for a loose carburetor, intake bolts, dis-connected or missing vacuum lines/caps, or damaged carburetor or intake gaskets. Also, the engine idle rpm might be too low, the air/fuel mixture might be too lean, or the carburetor could be plugged up internally.

Hi !
Firstly see if the choke wire is stuck from inside itself or from the Carburetor side.
To check this you will need to pull - push the small knob on the Carburetor where the choke wire is attached. If it moves freely then the choke wire is stuck in itself.

If it is stuck from the Carburetor side then you could use a spray like WD40 to free the leaver.

Else disengage the wire from the Carburetor and pull the wire out from the inside. Clean the wire and lubricate it by using any good lubricant (engine oil works the best). Then slowly push the cable back and fasten the wire back with the Carburetor.
Regards
Berry.