Question about 2001 Yamaha TW 200

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1989 tw200 yamaha won't start

Have good spark, spark plug, put new gas in tank, bled excess fuel from line and carb. Tried electri start and kick start using combination of choke nd no choke with no positive result. Engine rebuilt 2 years ago with less than 300 miles. Would ride more often if problem resolved. Thank you

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G'day egdbcs . Ok.now lets see.You say good spark,so i'm presuming you are doing the old sight test.Try bending the arm on a know good sparkplug about 5-6mm,earth the plug and kick'er in the guts(crank it over)Be very carefull , high voltage danger.If there's still a good spark it's safe to say that there will also be a good spark under pressure in the combustion chamber,speaking of which you should also do a compression test,anything over 100psi should be ok. as i'm not to sure of the extent of the re-build,hopefully the valves were lapped and checked for straight and true and valve seals replaced,if you notice oil on the tip of the spark plug you could have a leaking valve seal or oil seal .Try putting a small amount of fuel directly into the combustion chamber ,tighten up the spark plug ,install the plug cap and.......Yeah ..You guessed it ..."kicker in the guts".If all the abouve are correct and true it should fire up.If it runs for 5-10 seconds then stops you've got some sort of fuel starvation problem , could be dirt in the carb,blocked idle jet ,or air passage or even the needle could have come off it's clip,believe me with an old bike like yours anything could be worn and loose inside that carby.The only other thing to consider is the timing.There may be a good spark but is it happening at the right time inside the engine???. I'll leave it all in your capable hands EGDBCS.Hope this helps to solving your worries. Chow for now......Tilleydog..

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
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4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
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18. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
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21. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
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Hi, Burton_jake and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enrichner.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
14. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
15. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
16. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
17. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
18. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
19. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
20. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
21. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
22. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
23. Check for engine trouble codes.
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