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Need a bit more info. If it's the front bearing, it's fairly straight forward. Jack up the front, remove the tire, remove the caliper and caliper bracket, and front disk. You'll then see the bearing hub. Depending on if you have antilock brakes, there will be a wire attached to the hub as well. Remove the bolts holding the hub on and install the replacement. Install the rest in revese order. If it's the rear, pretty much the same except it will probably have the axle extending through the hub and secured with a large nut on the outside. This has to be removed as well as the other items listed. Can try one of the internet companies like Rock Auto. Have used their stuff successfully. Good luck!
Symptoms indicate tires out of balance. Can't necessarily tell by looking. If you want to troubleshhot yourself, try rotating front tires to back. If it gets better, you know the front tires were out of balance.
on that vehicle it,s replacement remove wheel remove brake caliper and pads remove brake caliper mount if you look on back side of spindle around area where axle comes thru you have three or four bolts remove bolts remove axle nut and hub bearing assembly comes off re-install in reverse order if this vehicle has 4 wheel abs unhook any wheel speed sensors
You need to have the front end inspected for damaged steering components. Check your Tie Rod ends, A frame bushings and ball joints to make sure there isn't excessive wear or lose connections. If all of that is in good working order Drive down the road with a friend in the next lane over and have them look to see if either wheel in bouncing. If either wheel is bouncing you need to replace the struts. they are replaced in pairs, both sides. The front end will need to be aligned after you do this.
Just make sure the cables are not binding or too short. Replacing the risers are pretty straight forward. Remove the four hold down bolts then remove the stock risers. Towel will help here to prevent handle bars from scratching the tank. Helps to have the front wheel straight before starting this process. Install the new risers using the hardware supplied. Be sure to check clutch and throttle for binding BEFORE riding. If they bind and prevent easy operation you may have to purchase extension cables. Be sure to torque the 4 bolts that hold down the handle bars properly. After a few trips check and tighten again to the proper torque settings. Installed the Baron kick back risers on my 1100 and it took a few trips to get use too. After that wouldn't take anything for them! Sitting higher and not all slumped over. Nice looking too!
Remove the steering knuckle assembly, as described previously.
Remove the bolts attaching the hub/bearing assembly to the steering knuckle.
the hub/bearing assembly from the front of the steering knuckle. The
bolt-in front wheel bearing used on the vehicle is transferable to a
replacement steering knuckle, if the bearing is in serviceable
condition. If the bearing will not come out of the steering knuckle, it
can be tapped out using a soft-faced hammer.
Thoroughly clean all parts, including the hub/bearing assembly mounting surfaces on the steering knuckle.
the replacement hub/bearing assembly onto the steering knuckle,
aligning the bolt holes of the bearing flange to the knuckle.
the attaching bolts and tighten evenly to make sure the bearing is
square to the face of the steering knuckle. Tighten the attaching bolts
to 80 ft. lbs. (110 Nm) on Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and
Breeze, or 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm) on Sebring coupe and Avenger.
Install the steering knuckle assembly, as previously described.
The owner's manual says to crank the steering wheel all the way to the
left. It is difficult and I had to lift the battery with one hand when
replacing it, but you can get between the wheel well and tire, without
removing the wheel.