How to replace front drive shaft ?

lost the user guide, it covers all that in glove box
is is free here in USA google the users guide and bingo.
RWD opts if even allowed is there. in said book
FORD.
the manual (ours) shows 3 dial settings,
only 2wd is one.(no sure me how this works)
or is the car have this.
TRAC-AUTOMATIC 4 selctions not just 3.
FOUR-WHEEL DRIVE SYSTEM??????????????????
2H in this box is RWD only, rear wheels.

2H in the manual
2Hposition delivers power only
to the rear axle.

This is not easy....You will need air tools ,spray penetrate,seal remover,hammer,and Jack stands..Seal installation tool,.All proper tools..safety glasses.correct seal replacement.,new lock nut...Set park brake,block rear wheels,raise vehicle front and safely place jack stands under each side of lower control arms..Spray lube front drive shaft mounting hardware and lock nut that holds Yoke on front diff..Let it set to penetrate..put vehicle in neutral..Mark shaft to yoke location and direction perfectly because it has to be installed in perfect timing exactly how it was removed..,Remove drive shaft..Remove lock nut and yoke from front diff...You will have to hold yoke while removing lock nut because it will spin..PROTECT HANDS..( These can be VERY DIFFICULT to remove..Sometimes they have to be heated..You will need a yoke removal tool if it doesn't tap off with hammer...Mark exactly the yoke to spline location before removal..You can take close up photos however Mark it also to be sure...If you re-install it wrong it will vibrate terribly..Once yoke is removed You can remove seal.Make sure the new seal is correct...CAREFULLY..DO NOT DAMAGE SPLINES WHILE REMOVING..Sometimes even the perfect seal remover will damage splines..So cover it to protect spline threads..Clean all areas once seal is removed..Make sure nothing is pitted or damaged...Install new seal with installation tool..Lightly,perfectly tap it flush with diff..You can use old seal to install new seal if you don't have installation tool But only a pro should do that...Once in place Line drive shaft yoke with your marks and tap it on ..Use NEW LOCKNUT AND TORQUE IT TO SPEC..Install drive shaft as marked..torque to spec..Lower truck and check fluid..Complete..

it may be you need to take it out again .and grease the spline and refit it .check it by turning the hub to check it is ok.

The best thing to do is completely remove the front drive shaft (assuming you are talking about the front CV boots).
1) Jack up the front end of the vehicle.2) Remove front wheel(s), track rod ends and slacken [don't remove completely just yet] the centre hub nut and remove split pin.3) With the gear in neutral, and using an appropriately sized round punch and hammer, punch out the location pin from the drive shaft where the drive shaft meets the gearbox output shafts.4) With the assistance of a flat screwdriver, lever and pull the drive shafts off the gearbox output shafts and let them drop down. 5) Using a rubber mallet, hammer the drive shaft through the front hub. You kept the nut on the end of the shaft initially so as to prevent damage to the drive shaft threads during hammering. This nut will have to be backed off and eventually removed as the shaft slides through and out of the hub unit.
With the entire shaft removed from the vehicle:
1) Cut off or slacken and remove any rubber boot retaining clips.2) slide the rubber boot(s) towards the centre of the shaft.3) Remove the inner joint first by using a small, flat screwdriver to flick out the retaining wire from the inner lip of the joint. (Keep this wire)4) Slide off inner joint cup and clean.
5) Locate the spring clip from the inner end of the shaft and carefully remove without over-stretching. if you have no replacement.
6) Slide off inner C.V. joint, and clean.
7) Remove damaged boot(s), clean all components, re-grease with LM grease and replace.
8) Reinstallation is the opposite of removal steps.


Note: Take care when re-installing drive shaft to gearbox output shaft. This will usually only align to a single position. Before tapping retaining pin back into place, visually inspect alignment of the shaft's holes. You can use your round punch to help align the holes before re-installation of the retaining pin.


Tip: With the removal of the front drive shafts, it may be a good opportunity to also replace front gearbox output oil seals and front wheel bearing-drive shaft dust seals. These are fairly inexpensive and may prolong the life of components as well as reduce the need for repetitive removal of parts.

yes but make sure you don't in gauge the front axle

find u a used driveshaft in the salvage yard just make sure you get the correct driveshaft for your turck

Front and rear impeller shafts?? Not sure if you mean drive shafts or not? The problem could be in your front drive axles/drive shaft. If you replaced them all that would be 4 total (very expensive). I would try another shop if that much was replaced and didn't solve the issue. When does the problem start in idle, driving on bumps, highway? Could be a motor problem too. Need more info.

IF I REMEMBER YES THATS GIVE YOU THE PLAY TO PULL SHAFT OUT

Remove tire, remove axle nut, pop ball joint off, remove clip, pull axle

For a more detailed instructions, go to autozone.com and register for free.
Now you will have full free online repair manual

No!!! Do not tow.
Unless it is a very, very short distance...do not tow. Are there lock out hubs on front? If yes, unlock them, and then remove the rear drive shaft from the rear end. If you can unlock the front hubs, then this will prevent the front differential from turning the front drive shaft to the transfer case. Then you can disconnect the rear drive shaft, and hang it somehow up high against the body so that it will NOT be HIT by the spinning connector yoke on the rear end. Leaving the drive shaft in the transfer case will prevent the loss of oil. BUT......It is critical that it completely clears the spinning yoke on the rear end... or else it will be damaged and may damage other things also. It is also important to remember that as you tow, the vehicle bounces up and down, so there needs to be several inches of clearance between the drive shaft and the connector yoke on the rear end. . If you do not have lock out hubs in the front, then disconnect the front shaft from the front end and hang it also. Use PB Blaster or similar oil to ease the process. If towing on a tow dolly, then you need to only remove the rear shaft. Be careful and make sure that whatever you use to hang the shaft is sturdy.