Clutch not fully disengaged, hard shifting - 96 FLHTCU
Symptoms started a few weeks ago, and I adjusted the clutch cable to remove some play in the clutch lever. This resolved the issue. Now symptoms have returned, but there seems to be very little play in the clutch lever this time. Is my clutch cable going bad? Is the clutch going bad?
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Re: Clutch not fully disengaged, hard shifting - 96...
If the previous solution doesn't fix it, beg, borrow or steal (maybe even BUY) a service manual and run thru the clutch adjustment BY THE BOOK.. I also would suggest removing the clutch cable and checking for binding, fraying, kinks, etc. If the problems still persist, total disassembly and inspection of the clutch will have to be done.
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First, make sure the clutch is adjusted correctly..This video is a basic tutorial.. use it for a guide BUT DO the steps as I TELL YOU..
1. Loose the cable adjuster at the handle bar.. run the adjuster in - (give it as much slack as you can)
2. The clutch actuator lever on the engine case should be able to move about 8mm (.325") before it starts to disengage (gets hard to move)..
3. Adjust the cable at the bottom adjustment to take up any slack at this point.. ..you MIGHT/should be able to feel some (NOT FULL TENSION) clutch disengagement in the handle bar (clutch) lever at this point.. IF YOU CAN'T - tighten the cable at the bottom adjustment ONE round at a time until you can feel (a small amount) tension and have at least/about 12mm (.48") max. of play in the lever (BETWEEN THE LEVER AND THE MOUNT when YOU START TO FEEL TENSION... - NOW - in the clutch lever (handle bar).. when you can feel tension in the lever... >> you should start adjusting the lever to have (at least) approximately 1/8" - (3mm) of play (gap) between the lever and mount.. when you have this set correctly, the clutch adjustment question is eliminated. If the adjustment has not helped and you had to do A LOT of adjusting. you need to replace the clutch cable.. and do this adjustment process again. NOW adjustment is NOT part of your problem. If this fixes your problem GREAT!!
.. If not.. now.. we have to move internally..The next issue will be grooves worn into the arms of the clutch basket be the fiber clutch plate ears..(see picture) (the ones that keep the plates stationary when you shift to help disengage the clutch). Also check the actuator arm (see picture below) for wear..
Ok.. if you have gotten this far and everything seems good, reinstall AFTER YOU HAVE METICULOUSLY CLEANED THE BASKET!! The clutch should be working now.
Congrats!! If you need professional port work contact me.. Suzuki RM80 250 89 95
Hi, Teddy when your clutch wears out it will start to slip if you have excessive free play in your clutch cable/lever pulling in the clutch lever will not fully disengage the clutch plates and the end result is clutch drag when a clutch is properly adjusted the clutch plates completely disengage and there is no drag. Good luck and have a nice day.
It sounds as if your clutch is dragging and not disengaging fully. I assume that the position that the clutch starts to take when pulling off is very close to the handle bars. If the clutch is cable operated, try to take up some of the slack on the cable to give it more travel and thus fully disengage. If it is hydraulic then you could have a problem such as a leaking cylinder or low brake fluid.
Shifts hard,or bangs/slams in gear just means you need to take a bunch of play out of the clutch lever.Adjust the cable far enough that there is very little play in lever and the slam will go away.Clutch is dragging when you shift and won't allow gear alighnment smoothly,that's all.Need clutch fully open when shifting.
The clutch plate or clutch adjustment seems to be the most likely thing in that it is not disengaging fully. Check the adjustment. There should be about 1" play at the top of the pedal movement and then the clutch should start releasing about halfway down. The other thing it could be is worn gear linkages and joint bushes. Have someone move the gear lever and check for play along the gear change train from the gear lever to the gearboxselector input.
To remove the old cable first shorten the mid-cable adjuster to give as much free play as possible. If you need more free play screw in the adjuster at the clutch lever as much as possible and line up the slots so you can disconnect the cable from the clutch lever. Then remove the shift lever, and possibly the left footrest if needed to remove the front sprocket cover. Remove the cotter pin and disconnect the cable from the clutch release lever. Make a note of the routing of the old cable so you can replace it. Install the new cable with a new cotter pin at the lower end first, and route it the same as the old cable. To adjust the new cable, shorten the mid-cable adjuster as much as possible. At the clutch lever, turn the adjuster in and leave about 1/4" of threads showing between the locknut and the lever body. With the front sprocket cover still off, loosen the locknut on the clutch release lever and back the screw 3 or 4 turns. Turn the clutch adjusting screw in until it becomes hard to turn and then back it off 1/2 of a turn and tighten the locknut. Now lenghten the mid-cable adjuster until there is no free play and tighten the locknuts. Check that the lower end of the cable is fully seated in it's socket. At the clutch lever, turn the adjuster in so you have 1/16" free play, and tighten the locknut. Replace the front sproket cover and the shift lever and footrest.
Pulling the lever releases the clutch. Disengageing it so you don't go. Ok, in order to engage the clutch fully, you release the lever and you must have at leas 1/4 inch free play.
If it is not going in gear easily, you probably have too much free play and you are not fully disengageing.. There is the possibility of an internal adjust ment Try the above and let me know how or if that works. Clutch lever pulled by closing your fist releases the clutch for shifting.
either your clutch needs to be adjusted or your clutch has something in it preventing it from fully releasing. either way its best to take it to the shop or someone who knows how to properly inspect the primary case. in my case, a plate fell apart and the rivets were in between the clutches.
start with the clutch fluid, is it full? check the clutch cable from the pedal to the transmission, does it have a lot of play in it, is it adjustable? check the bushings on the shifter base, does the shifter itself have a lot of play in it? i'd start with those, if all those are ok then it might be the clutch itself. when a clutch gets worn down it doesn't release fully causing a hard shift or grinding when going into gear. put the truck on a flat surface so it doesn't free roll at all, with the engine off, put the truck in first or reverse, press the clutch pedal fully to the floor and start the engine. let off the brake. if the truck moves at all it means your clutch cable is out of adjustment or its just getting worn out. provifing the shifter and the fluid level is good.