As long as they are adjustable it's not too bad. Remember to change pushrods one at a time. First you have to pull the upper chrome covers off. These have a little (kind of) handle. They are halfed, but they look one piece. Pull down & out. 1: Once chrome covers are off, turn motor slightly until the valve your working on is closed & lifter is on lowest part of base circle on cam at BTC. in other words, while turning motor slightly in BOTH directions, lifter should be all the way down, and stay down. this assures that your not on or near the up ramp of the cam lobe. 2: Then you can remove pushrod by loosening lash adjustment (on bottom) until pushrod comes out. 3: Put new pushrod through partial chrome tube exactly as removed from old pushrod. 4: Set valve lash or pre-load, and then, one at a time, repeat procedure from step 1.
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Re: 95 Harley FXSTC Pushrod replacement
A little something to add to the above solution...be advised that there are TWO kinds of aftermarket pushrods for Harleys. Adjustable and easy install. Adjustable pushrods you have to break the cylinder heads loose to install them. The easy install type slips right in with no extra work. Make sure the ones you get can be installed without removing the cylinder heads.
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Factory Evo lifters have a range of adjustment/compensation of a little over .200 of an inch. Your aim is to set the pushrods to run in the middle of that range. Screamin Eagle pushrods use a 24-pitch thread, which lengthens them by .041 n change per turn. Set the pushrod in place with the lifterer all the way down, adjust to zero play, then extend it by 15 flats of the hex, to a total of 2-1/2 turns, extending the pushrod .100 of an inch. This puts it in the middle of travel of the lifter, and you're on to the next! Remember to allow plenty of time for the lifters to bleed off oil between each rod adjustment before turning the engine, to avoid bottoming out a valve. Adjust one at a time, 10 minutes wait time between each pushrod is a good rule of thumb. Ride safe!
Stock lifters often allow valve noise. Consider velvet touch or Jims' lifters AND lifter blocks.
Adjustable push rods are okay.
Adjustment: I prefer TOTALLY dry lifters get the lifter at its lowest point and FULLY collapse the lifter. then turn looser by 1 to 2 1/2 turns. What this does is allow for a loss of oil pressure without engine destruction.
This procedure is essentially the opposite of the normal procedure.
Many HDs have intermittent valve tapping and we have traced to the lifters. HD says "It's a Harley", but a valve tap ruins the whole ride.
To adjust the valves on your Ironhead, the engine must be stone cold. You want to adjust the tappets so that you have zero backlash on the cold engine. As the engine heats up, the cylinder and heads expand upward creating valve lash in the valve train. This is why you want zero lash with the engine cold. If you get the valves set too tightly, it'll hold a valve open ever so slightly and make starting difficult.
To adjust the valves, bring one piston to TDC on the compression stroke, both valves closed with tappets in their lowest position. Pop the pushrod covers loose and loosen the lock nut on one of the tappets. Adjust the top part of the adjuster outwards until the pushrod can no longer be turned with your fingers. Turn the lock nut down but don't lock it yet. Gradually turn the top adjuster downward until you can spin the pushrod with your finger and finish locking the lock nut. Recheck the pushrod to see if it still spins but has no up and down movement. Do the same with the other pushrod on that cylinder. Remember, if's better to get the pushrods adjusted slightly loose rather than slightly tight. It might rattle a bit more but it'll start easier as well. Put the pushrod tubes back together and then do the same thing with the other cylinder.
If your bike is equipped with the Evolution engine there is no adjustment on the rocker arms, the engine is equipped with hydraulic tappets. The pushrods on the Big Twin Evo engine are color coded and go in a particular position. They are different lengths. The blue color coded pushrod is the rear intake pushrod, the purple color coded pushrod is the exhaust pushrod. The pushrods for the Evo Sportster are all the same and there is no adjustment on those eiher provided they are stock.
Now, if you are working on something other than an Evolution engine or you have aftermarket pushrods, please repost and I'll tell you what I know about the valve adjustment for your engine.
When you adjust the pushrods on any H-D Evolution or later engine, you must compress the tappet by 0.100". According to the list that I have, you must turn the pushrod three complete turns (18 flats) to lengthen it this much. I'd double check your pushrods to make sure this is correct. Find a point where you can measure the pushrod and take a measurement using a dial caliper. Turn the pushrod to extend it by three full turns and remeasure the pushrod. It should be 0.100" longer.
To install your pushrods, bring one piston to top dead center on the compression stroke. Make sure that both tappets on that cylinder are as low as they go in their bores. Install the pushrod with the pushrod tube into the head. Make sure you've got the O-rings in the head and the tappet block. Extend the pushrod by turning it with your fingers until it gets tight. Then, turn it three more turns using wrenches and lock the locknut. Do the same with the other pushrod. Let the engine sit and do not turn the engine until the tappets bleed down and you can again turn the pushrods with your fingers. This may take as long as ten minutes. Once you can turn the pushrods by hand. Bring the other cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke. Make sure that both tappets are at the low point in their bore. Install the other two pushrods the same as you did the first two and allow the engine to set until the tappets bleed down. Once you can spin the pushrods in your fingers. Finish installing the pushrod tubes.
Now, this is accurate provided your pushrods have a 32 threads per inch adjuster. If not, you must figure out how many "flats" that you have to turn the pushrod to lengthen it by 0.100". Substitute this number of flats in for the number of turns to lengthen the pushrod after you get it finger tight.
The tappet plunger has approx. 0.200" of travel in it. You want to adjust the pushrod so that the plunger in the tappet is about mid way in it's travel or 0.100" or there abouts.
Uhh, if the pushrods in your 1994 model bike were stock, they are not adjustable. They should be color coded at to where they go. If this is what you have, they go in the following positions:
Purple - Rear Exhaust
Blue - Rear Intake
Yellow - Front Intake
Green - Front exhaust
Now, if they have been changed to adjustable push rods by you or some previous owner, the first thing you have to do is figure out how many turns of the adjuster it takes to make the pushrod 0.100" longer. Turn the adjuster all the way inward making the pushrod as short as possible. Now, using a caliper, turn the adjuster outwards until you get a measurement of threaded rod that is exactly one hundred thousandts long. Then turn the adjust all the way back inward while counting the number of "flats" on the hex adjuster that you turn until it bottoms out. You must do it this way because different manufacturers of the pushrods use different thread pitches on their adjusters.
Once you know how many "flats" it takes to make the pushrods 0.100" longer install the pushrod into a position with the tappet all the way down. Adjust the pushrod out using your fingers until you get all the slack out of the pushrod. Then turn the pushrod adjuster outwards the number of turns that it takes to make the pushrod exactly 0.100" longer.
Once this is done, you will not be able to turn the pushrod. You must wait for the hydraulic tappet to bleed down before you can turn the engine. If you do turn the engine before the tappet bleeds down, you may bend the valve. Do not turn the engine until you can turn the pushrod with your fingers. Proceed until you get all pushrods installed and adjusted in this manner.
If the engine is stock, there is no adjustment to the valves. The engine is equipped with hydraulic tappets that take up for any wear or heat expansion of the cylinders. The pushrods are non-adjustable but are of different lengths. They are color-coded as to what position they go in.
Now, if your engine has been modified and adjustable pushrods installed, they should work the same way unless they are way out of adjustment. Then, it depends on "whose" pushrods they are as not all pushrods have the same threaded ends on them. But, all is not lost.
Take one of the pushrods out of the engine and adjust the pushrod as short as it will go. Now, turn the end out until it makes the pushrod exactly 0.100" longer while counting the "flats" on the adjuster. When you install the pushrod, make sure the tappet is at it's lowest point in the bore. Put the pushrod in, don't forget the tube and the new O-rings, and adjust the pushrod out until you have zero backlash. Then adjust it out the additional number of "flats" that it took to make it exactly 0.100" longer. Lock the adjuster down. What you're doing here is the plunger of the tappet has a travel of 0.200" total and you're adjusting the pushrod so that the plunger is halfway in the middle of its travel so that it's got equal travel in both the up and down direction.
I think the SE pushrods have a 32 TPI pitch on the threads. If so, with the tappet all the way down in it's bore, adjust the pushrod longer until it make contact with the tappet plunger. Now, continue to lengthen the pushrod by 18 flats or three turns. Allow the tappet to bleed down before you turn the engine over. When you can turn the pushrod with your fingers, you can safely turn the engine.
The object is to adjust the plunger in the hydraulic tappet to approximately the middle of it's travel. The tappest have about 0.200" of travel. So, you want to adjust the pushrod out until it has zero clearance then go another 0.100" inch. You can measure how much three turns lenghtens the pushrod before you install them just to make sure.
first off remove all the pushrod covers. Then starting with any of them turn the motor over till one of the pushrods is all the way up. Then loosen the nuts at the bottom and turn the adjusting nut on it till you can just barely spin the pushrods with your fingers. Retighten the pushrod nuts. Recheck to make sure you can still turn it. Take your time doing it. and then replace the covers.