Question about 2005 Triumph Rocket III

2 Answers

Clicking noise from the rear brakes of my 2005 Rocket 3

My brake pads are "dragging" on the rotor. I've got a clicking sound coming from the caliper area.of the rear brake. The rotor is of course getting extremely hot. I've replaced the pads, fluid (including thorough bleeding of the system) and deglazed the rotor. Doesn't make this noise on center stand, only when I roll it on the shop floor or riding at low speed can I hear it.

Posted by on

  • 1 more comment 
  • jj5986 May 30, 2009

    although I've yet to try that. I thought I had isolated it to the rear brake system. When I removed the caliper and rolled the bike forward and back...there was no clicking noise anymore. I don't think wheel bearings would cause the rotor specifically to heat up so very hot. Do you? When I apply the rear brake, the noise goes away.

  • jj5986 May 30, 2009

    My brake pads are "dragging" on the rotor. I've got a clicking sound coming from the caliper area.of the rear brake. The rotor is of course getting extremely hot. I've replaced the pads, fluid (including thorough bleeding of the system) and deglazed the rotor. Doesn't make this noise on center stand, only when I roll it on the shop floor or riding at low speed can I hear it. When I remove the caliper and role the bike, there's no more "clicking" noise.

  • jj5986 May 30, 2009

    Haven't tried the suggestion yet, but it seems to be the exact solution to my problem! I'll be surprised if that doesn't fix it. Big Thanks!



2 Answers

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points


    An expert that got 5 achievements.


    An expert who has written 50 answers of more than 400 characters.


    An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.

  • Expert
  • 151 Answers

Check out properly  there will be  a small burr on the part of the caliper that on which  the pad tabs slide across. when you  pull the lever it would load up pressure behind the pad that was stuck on the burr then it made a clicky/tingy sort of noise as it sprung past it. check out carefully and listen  the click in the lever
it can be  fixed  by removing the pads and smoothing off the surface with a flathead screwdriver.that will help.
--------------- another reason could be the thread in the caliper would  been destroyed and the umbreako holding the caliper to the frame will  only be grabing onto about 1 and a half turns of thread.and this makes noise when caliper is there.and noise goes when caliper removed. --------------------- to reset the distance of the pads to the rotor so they don't have to move so far - "Pull off the wheel and insert a clean piece of metal or plastic slightly thinner than your brake disc in between the disc pads, squeez the lever and reinstall your wheel. If you can't find a spacer try squeezing the lever slightly. The object is to get the rubber seals that retract the pads to move a closer to the rotor. This moves the levers engagement point further outboard. If the brakes drag after your adjustments, simply remove the wheels and pry the pads a part with a clean flat flat head screw driver. Pump the levers with the wheels in place to reset the pads and try once more. The idea is to trick the XTR into engaging earlier, reducing the levers distance before pad contact."
-------------------- I think because the pads were having to move a fair distance further in to grab the rotors, that was contributing to the pads sticking to the grooves and creating the clicking sound as it moved past.-
this will help. thanks.please do rate the solution.thank you for using fixya.keep updated.

Posted on May 30, 2009

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points


    An expert that got 10 achievements.


    An expert that got 5 achievements.


    An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.

  • Master
  • 948 Answers

The next thing I would check is the rear wheel bearings. Pull the rear wheel and have a look at them. See if you have any lateral movement at the wheel when you put the bike in the air and attempt to rock the wheel from side to side, attempting both top/bottom movement and side to side by gripping the front and the rear of wheel.

Posted on May 30, 2009


1 Suggested Answer

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add



Related Questions:

1 Answer

What causes rear wheel noise

  1. Tire issues;
  2. Contaminated differential oil or low oil level in the differential;
  3. Bad rear bearings;
  4. Brake issues (worn pads, caliper dragging, parking brake not releasing;
  5. Microscopic crack in the wheel (if the "noise" you are describing is a clicking sound).

Jul 23, 2014 | 2008 Lincoln Mkz

2 Answers

Why does my 2005 Pontiac Grand Prix make a clicking sound when braking right after the brakes were changed?

My first guess would be one of the brake pads or the caliper is moving. You should be able to jack up one wheel at a time and find out where the noise is coming from.

May 27, 2014 | 2005 Pontiac Grand Prix

1 Answer

My 2004 makes a load clicking sound when i come to a stop and on the open road it pulls hard right. it has new brakes and has been inspected by multiple garages and it comes back fine. my question is cold...

now a worn or damaged outboard CV joint would make a clicking noise while turning. when the vehicle pulls to one side during braking it could be a number of problems.
1. incorrect tire pressure
2. front end out of line
3. restricted brake lines or hoses
4. drum brake or caliper assembly are malfunctioning
5.loose suspension parts
6. loose calipers
7. excessive wear of brake shoe or pad material or disc/drum on one side

i myself own a 2006 hyundai and just did a complete all 4 wheel brake job including rotors.......saved a bundle, special tool for the back brakes for calipers...........also just bought a 2012 it.
good luck,

Sep 10, 2011 | 2004 Hyundai Elantra

1 Answer

My 2005 mazda 3 4dr s rear brakes make alot of squeaking dragging, rubbing sound when applied. is this normal with new brake pads?


Oct 23, 2010 | 2005 Mazda 3

1 Answer

Replace rear brake pads

Rear disc brake pads offer better performance and are not as affected by moisture like conventional brake shoe style brakes are. Rear disc brakes are similar to front disc brakes. The main difference is that rear disc brake systems must incorporate the emergency brake system. There are two methods widely used for the emergency brake with rear disc systems. The first system is a brake shoe inside the brake disc that is actuated by the emergency brake lever. The second is a screw style actuator inside the brake caliper. When activated the brake pads are forced into the brake disc and held tightly by the emergency brake lever.
Step 1 - Identify Rear Disc Brake Components
rear_brake_pads.jpg Rear disc brake assembly includes; rear brake disc, rear brake pads, brake caliper mount and a caliper mounting screw. (Note: Some vehicles do not have the rotor mounting screw.)
Step 2 - Removing the Rear Brake Caliper Mount Bolts
rear_brake_pads_2.jpg To replace rear brake pads and rotors the rear brake caliper needs to be removed. First loosen the rear brake caliper mount bolts and remove them. Turn counter clockwise.
Step 3 - Lift Rear Brake Caliper from The Caliper Mount
rear_brake_pads_3.jpg After the caliper mount bolts have been removed, gently lift the brake caliper from the caliper mount. Inspect the caliper slides; they should move freely in the caliper mount. Remove rear brake pads and hardware.

Step 4 - Removing Caliper Mount Bolts
rear_brake_pads_4.jpg With a socket wrench or other appropriate removal tool, loosen the rear brake caliper mounting bolts. Remove bolts and lift the caliper mount and remove it from the vehicle. Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole. Tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub holding on tightly, using both hands. You do not want to drop the rotor.

Step 5 - Removing Rear Brake Rotor
rear_brake_rotor.jpg Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole, tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub, hold on using both hands and do not drop.

Step 6 - Install New Brake Rotor
rear_brake_rotor_2.jpg Check the new rotor against the old brake rotor to make sure they are the same size. Clean the mating surface on the wheel hub before the new brake rotor is installed. Reinstall rotor retainer screw.
Step 7 - Reset Rear Brake Caliper
rear_brakes_7.jpg Before new brake pads can be installed, the rear brake caliper must be reset. The reset tool winds the piston back into position so the new brake pads will fit. This style of brake caliper will not compress with a clamp tool; it can only be reset with the proper reset tool.
Step 8 - Reinstall Rear Caliper Mount and Install New Rear Brake Pads
rear_brake_rotor_3.jpg After the caliper has been reset, reinstall caliper mounting bolts and make sure the bolts are tight. Then match up the old brake pads to the new brake pads. They should be exactly the same except, of course; the old ones will be worn out. Check the new brake pads for proper fit and install any brake hardware that is required.
Step 9 - Remount Rear Brake Caliper
rear_brake_rotor_4.jpg Reinstall the brake caliper, align brake pad hardware and reinstall caliper mounting bolts. (Note: align the rear peg of the brake pad to the groove in the caliper piston.) Recheck and retighten all caliper and caliper mount bolts. Bleed brake system to relieve any air in the system. Before driving the vehicle, push the brake pedal down and let it up slowly. This operation forces the brake pads to travel to the brake rotors. DO NOT DRIVE VEHICLE until proper brake pedal operation resumes. When test driving vehicle listen for any unusual noises during the operation of the brakes.
WARNING! Always have the vehicle under inspection on level ground, in park with the emergency brake on. Always wear protective eyewear, gloves and necessary clothing before inspection or work begins. Never crank an engine over when anyone is near the battery or engine. Always have an operational fire extinguisher close by, obey all first aid instructions in the event of an injury. Never stand in front or behind a vehicle when cranked over or running. When engine is cranked over keep hands and clothing away from rotating components. Never move a car without proper brake pedal operation.

Jun 01, 2010 | 1995 Saab 900

1 Answer

Brake light on dash stays on while driving and when i come to a stop i here brakes queeking. but i dont know what brakes are bad. the front or back. also when im driving i here a clicking noise. i had the...

you may have a frozen brake caliper . That well wear out your brakes quick & when brake pads are worn
out that lowers your brake fluid causing brake lite to come on . To check brakes remove wheel and look for groves in rotors in front . rear is a bit more complex you need to back the automatic brake adjuster remove brake drum all pads should be at least 3/8th inch thick if not replace hope this helps CJ

May 26, 2010 | 1994 Chevrolet C1500

1 Answer

Rear end making noise like a muffler is bouncing off the pavement. This happens on and off. It feels like the brakes may be dragging but then it quits.

Sounds like the rear EMERGENCY brakes are binding or your ABS is kicking in.

The E brakes are inside the hub of the rear rotors. You have to separate the rear rotor from the axle hub as the E brakes work like drum brakes. The debris will set off the ABS and bind the rear wheels. Many brake shops and dealers just look at the calipers and pads and do not inspect the E brake.

Feb 16, 2010 | 2004 Ford F150

2 Answers

Installed new brake pads and roters on a 2005 accord. The brakes run very hot and have a smell. not sure if I have a problem

if it is braking normal no drag-shimmy-vibration /ur brakes are seating will smell until pads and rotor settle

Nov 11, 2009 | Honda Accord Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

R&R rotors and calipers on 2005 Ford 500 to do brake job

use a large c-clamp to bottom out the caliper pistons remove the caliper bolts .slip out the pads and remove the caliper from the disk
hang the caliper from a coathanger wire to avoid damaging the brakeline after replacement of the pads;brake bleeding is not needed Rotors are held on to the axle like a wheel; with bolts

May 29, 2009 | 2006 Ford Five Hundred

2 Answers

96 Ranger Grinding Sound Moving Forward

Did you check the rotors to see if they were cracked or 'thin' ? Rotors sometimes get really thin with use.And they can crack. Or as in one case that I know of there was sand between the rotor and the pads. The pads were also new. Removed the gravelly sand and they worked fine.

Nov 05, 2008 | 1996 Ford Ranger SuperCab

Not finding what you are looking for?
2005 Triumph Rocket III Logo

Related Topics:

175 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Triumph Experts

Arnie Burke
Arnie Burke

Level 3 Expert

4521 Answers


Level 3 Expert

76132 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22156 Answers

Are you a Triumph Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides