Question about 2004 Yamaha YZ 250 F

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Yz 250 4-stroke It's extremely hard to kick over, so it has a pressure release lever on the handle bar. Is there some "proper" way to kick it over, or do I just kick it while holding the "pressure rel

Bike will not run if the choke isnt on. in other words it starts then as soon as you push the choke in it stalls please help! I just bought a yz250 4stroke. It's extremely hard to kick over, so it has a pressure release lever on the handle bar. Is there some "proper" way to kick it over, or do I just kick it while holding the "pressure release lever" once, and then kick it regularly to get it started??

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  • Yamaha Master
  • 3,433 Answers

That lever is a compression release and pulling it will make kick stating an excersie routine. Kick start without the pulling the lever. See how that works. good luck.

Posted on May 29, 2009

  • Ned C Cook
    Ned C Cook May 29, 2009

    That lever is a compression release and pulling it will make kick stating an excersie routine. Kick start without the pulling the lever. See how that works. good luck.

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How to start yamaha yz 400f?


pull the choke out, make sure fuel is on, DO NOT turn the throttle before starting. now you have to make sure the cylinder is at the top of the stroke, give the bike a couple short, easy kicks your not trying to kick it over yet, you are just trying to get the piston to the top of the cylinder, as your givivng it the short easy kicks, you will notice that the kick is getting shorter and harded......until you are at the top of the stroke....now it is ready to kick over, hold the hot start lever in about half way to release some compressionand give it a hard strong kick, if it doesnt start on that kick, make sure you are at the top of the cylinder again and when you are, give it another strong hard kick all the way to the bottom, when it starts immediatly release the decompression lever or you could do damage to the valves. relaese the choke, you dont want to leave the choke on too long because it is a very rich gas mixture and will eat the oil off the cylinder walls after a while. and DO NOT high rev the bike until it is warm, because you need to make sure that oil has gotten to the top end. it isnt a 2 stroke, ya cant make her screem right away.

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2004 YZ 250 4 STROKE PROBLEMS STARTING


There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting. Below are generic instructions.
  • The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
  • The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
  • The de-compression lever, always used.
  • The throttle, used to prime the cylinder, (power valve).
Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm, (Power valve), in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), for six kicks. After six kicks go ahead and twist the throttle again for a second priming. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting. Note that not all carbs have a power valve. When a power valve is not present you should crack the throttle open only 1/8 inch from closed on each kick.

Go to this site and you can download a free PDF service manual. The site may take up to 20 seconds to load the complete list of manuals. Yours is on the list.
www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

Nov 19, 2009 | 2004 Yamaha YZ 250 F

3 Answers

Hey guys, i have a rmz 250 2005, i have heard this specific model came out the Kawa factory, is this true?? and if so, are the valve clearance settings the same??as the rmz still battles to start, should i...


Call a Honda dealer with the frame number on the bike. They should be able to tell you where the bike was manufactured. The valve settings should be the same no matter where the bike was made. There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting. Below are generic instructions.
  • The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
  • The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
  • The de-compression lever, always used.
  • The throttle, used to prime the cylinder, (power valve).
Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm, (Power valve), in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), for six kicks. After six kicks go ahead and twist the throttle again for a second priming. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting. Note that not all carbs have a power valve. When a power valve is not present you should crack the throttle open only 1/8 inch from closed on each kick.

Nov 19, 2009 | 2004 Honda CRF 450 R

1 Answer

I cant start the bike


There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting. Below are generic instructions.
  • The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
  • The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
  • The de-compression lever, always used.
  • The throttle, used to prime the cylinder.
Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), for six kicks. After six kicks go ahead and twist the throttle again for a second priming. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting.

Nov 14, 2009 | 2006 kawasaki KX 250 F

1 Answer

2007 honda crf 250 r hard starting when cold ,


There is a proper way to start an engine. Most bikes have four controls to assist in starting.
  • The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
  • The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
  • The de-compression lever, always used.
  • The throttle, used to prime the cylinder.
Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), until the bike starts. Go ahead and give it another primer shot after the 5th kick attempt. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting.

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2 Answers

VERY hard starting takes way to many kicks usually play out befo


There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting.
  • The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
  • The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
  • The de-compression lever, always used.
  • The throttle, used to prime the cylinder.
Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. Give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kickstart lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from a backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), until the bike starts. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting.

Top rating for this answer? Thanks!

Jun 11, 2009 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 250 F

1 Answer

2005 250 f 65 kicks to start


Several things can cause the problem. First, spring for a new spark plug. The stock plug is NGK CR8E. Now the plug is eliminated as a problem. Next, pull the slide out of the throat of the carb. Now remove the jet needle. Put the needle clip on the 4th notch, (this is the stock setting). Use only premium gas. Next, follow the starting instructions below.

There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting.
  • The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
  • The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
  • The de-compression lever, always used.
  • The throttle, used to prime the cylinder.
Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. Release the de-compression lever and give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from a backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), until the bike starts. A good battery and clean air filter will also aid in starting.

This will likely tame the beast for you. Please rate this answer. Thanks!

Jun 06, 2009 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 250 F

2 Answers

Is there a proper method to kick starting a 4-stroke? my bike has a pressure release... I've heard you kick it over while holding in the pressure release until you reach the engines TDC then give it a


Yes, there is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting.
  • The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
  • The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
  • The de-compression lever, always used.
  • The throttle, used to prime the cylinder.
Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. Release the de-compression lever and give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kickstart lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), until the bike starts. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting.

As to the inability to keep the bike running, Clean the fuel system.
ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors. Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ). Be sure the gas cap vent hose is clear and the fuel petcock vent hose is clear. Check to see the fuel flows freely through the petcock.

Drain the carburetor. There should be a large screw on the bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine. At the back top left side of the carb is the TPS, Throttle Position Sensor. Do not remove the TPS from the carb. Rather, disconnect the TPS wire lead from the wiring harness.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the air screw on the outside back throat of the
carb and spray into the screw hole as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
IMPORTANT > re-install but do not tighten the air screw down. Only screw it inward until it LIGHTLY seats. Now turn the air screw one and one half turns outward. Pay special attention to the pilot jet, aka > idle jet. It is located at the front edge of the carb. Turn the adjuster outward 1/2 turn. Put the
carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road. I suggest you install an in-line fuel filter between the petcock and carb.

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

This all sounds complicated, but right now it is a learning process for you. Pretty soon your friends will be asking YOU for advice.


Please top rate this solution. Thanks!

May 30, 2009 | 2004 Yamaha YZ 250 F

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