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One possibility is the rear axle isn't aligned so the rear wheel/tire runs true to the axis of the frame. This can be visible with the drive belt not running true on it's sprocket, pulling to one side of the pulley, rather than being about equal spacing on each side of the belt to each side of the pulley. The other possibility is the rear wheel was removed, and the axle spacers weren't reinstalled in the correct position(s). The axle spacers are different lengths, and are specific as far as which one goes on the left, which one goes on the right.
Go to this site http://www.bikebandit.com Choose OEM parts and locate your bike and go to wheels and brakes. The brake caliper bracket acts as the spacer on one side and the axle spacer goes on the other side. There may be two small "spacers" that are actually inner races for the wheel bearing seals to ride on in both sides of the wheel.
Hello, No a 2000-up Wheel has "Sealed Bearings" and the Lip around where the Disc Rotor Bolts is Larger (2.200") than the 1995 Wheel which has a Lip around where the Disc Rotor Bolts is 2.000". Also The width of the 2000-up Wheel will be a little Wider (about .200" = a little under 1/4"). The Wheels from 1984-1999 will be the Same for the Same Model of Harley. All Harley Wheels from 1973-1999 used 3/4" "Timken" Bearing (Tapered Caged Rollers), Wheels 2000-Up used "Sealed Bearings" 3/4" & 1" I.D. and in 2008 some started using 25mm Wheel Bearings. Anything is Possible if you Own a Machine Shop and want to Bore out your 1995 Disc Brake Rotor I.D. to 2.220" and Make New Axle Spacers and Machine off aprox. .100" off each side of the Hub. Thanks Bob @ Bob's Cycle Supply Since: 1976
Pull the rear axle, and spacer on the brake side of wheel. Un hook brake rod and brake strut. Position yourself on the brake side of the bike and pull the rear wheel straight out of the final drive housing. Put a little grease on thhe final drive splines upon reinstalling the wheel to aid removal next time.
Unless someone has changed a spacer or something , the rear wheel should be centered with the frame, not necessarily the swingarm. The rear brake caliper bracket acts as the spacer on the right side and there is a spacer on the left side. This spacer on the left side should be just short enough to get into the swingarm without a lot of excess space once installed. You should not be squeezing your swingarm more than 0.125 inch or so.
Now, there are other things that will cause the tire to rub the final drive belt. Too wide tire will do this. The '94 models used the old style wide belts unlike the narrower belt used by the later models. If you install a like is on a later model, it's too wide and will probably rub. The next reason for tire belt interference is the rear tire not being adjusted correctly and it is not under the bike straight. Adjust the rear wheel by measuring the length of the adjuster bolt relative to the axle. These measurements should be the same on both sides of the swingarm. If you can't do that, find something about six feet long that you can use as a straight edge to check the alignment of the rear wheel to the front wheel. Keep in mind that there is an offset designed into the front wheel. Just make sure that the rear wheel is as straight relative to the frame as you can get it.
Even with all this stuff correctly set, the final drive belt will be close to the side of the tire but it should not rub.
If you have the wheel properly installed, putting the rear brake back on the bike should not be a problem. The brake caliper bracket should act as the wheel spacer on the right side of the bike and must be properly positioned in order to get the axle back in.
With the caliper bracket on the bike, make sure the brake pads are properly positioned in the caliper bracket. Double check to see that the pads are not installed backwards, especially on the back side of the rotor. Carefully, slide the caliper down over the pads, without distrurbing them, and into the caliper bracket. If this is giving you a problem, you may have to press the piston in the caliper back into the the caliper just a bit to clear the pads. If you replaced the pads with new pads, press the piston all the way back into the caliper. I usually use a large pair of slip joint pliers or a large C-clamp to do this with. Make sure you put a rag or something around the caliper to protect the paint. Good Luck!