Question about 2007 Ducati Sport 1000 Monoposto

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NO brakes My dad parked his 68 Camaro inside an enclosed trailer where it sat for around 2 years. The aluinum intake had corroided...exhaust had rusted. When we finally had room in the garage we got the car out and it had NO brakes. In the process of a repaint I decided that we should change over to Silicone fluid. We cleaned the lines several times as well as the entire system. The car still has no brakes....and a lot of trash..rust?...in the lines...master cylinder..calipers... I am getting the blame....I however blame the storage of the car inside the enclosed trailer...condensation!!! Anybody have a better reason???

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  • tombones May 11, 2010

    You are right. Father doesn't always know best.

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Brake fluid will create rust in the braking system and that is why it should be replaced at the proper intervals.
The rust most probably was already in the system before it was garaged

Posted on May 27, 2009

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Intake or exhaust manifold? Intake manifold is gasket is a pretty big job that gets complicated even further with tight working quarters under the hood of a camaro. You have to remove the fuel injection system to access the intake. you may also have to remove some of the drive accessories, e.g, AC, alternator, etc. GM was using a two piece intake for a while. not sure if your car has one or not. you will need to get gaskets for the upper and lower intake. you will need a large assorment of tools and several hours to perform the task. Get a repair manual and look over the procedure before starting. Locate all the components the procedure mentions. Follw the instructions and take your time. Lay everything out in an organized manner as you pull it off your car. Keep everything clean and be careful not to drop anything down the intake ports...Reassembly is just the opposite, keeping things organized will save you time going back together. good luck. exhaust manifold will be a major pain in the backside. pay somebody if its the exhaust

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Did you check the vacuum hose to brake booster ,if it has vacuum assist power brakes ?

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From this chart - I think you may be misreading the number - 3970010 is possibly the actual number: Which makes the engine pretty old 68-72 350 V8 - 4 bolt main. I included past this number so that you can see that the number you posted doesn't actually exist. And thus my conclusion that the 9 is most likely a 0. Hope this helps. 3970010 350 69 Corvette late 69,4 bolt main 3970010 302 69 Camaro Z/28,Late 69, 4 bolt main 3970010 350 69-79 Truck 2&4 bolt main 3970010 350 69-79 Pass,Chevelle,Camaro,Nova,MonteCarlo 2&4 bolt main 3970010 350 70 Corvette 300,350,370 HP 4 bolt main 3970010 350 71 Corvette 270,330 HP 4 bolt main 3970010 350 72 Corvette 200,255 HP 4 bolt main 3970014 350 69-77 Pass,Chevelle,Camaro, Nova,MonteCarlo 2 or 4 bolt main 3970014 350 69-79 Truck 2 or 4 bolt main 3970014 350 72 Corvette late &undefined;72,200 HP,255HP 4 bolt main 3970020 307 68-73 Pass,Chevelle,Camro, Nova 3970020 307 69-73 Truck 3970024 307 69-73 Pass,Chevelle,Camro, Nova,Truck 3992386 327 68-69 Pass,Chevelle,Camro, Nova,Truck Large Jounal

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1 Answer

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by releasing the park brake you are in fact putting air in the park brake (spring brake diaphragms) that compresses the springs and allows the brakes to release. When you apply the park brake you are in effect dumping the air out of the system and allowing the spring brakes to come on. The light is telling you that there is insufficient air in the park brake circuit to fully release the spring brakes. Some ideas are that the air lines on the trailer are opposite to the prime mover(tractor), there is a kink in the air lines in the trailer , the air tank that holds emergency air for the spring brakes system has an internal leak in a valve between chambers or externally between air tanks. I would make very sure that I fixed this problem before I travelled as the consequences of a trailer wheel lock up at speed could have very serious results.

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1 Answer

I have a 1984 camaro an everytime i press the brakes its real hard to press


Check your vacuum booster control unit its on the fire wall in front of the steering wheel the master brake cylinder is mounted to it . Its vacuum opperated off the engine vacuum and is what gives you power brakes Look under it on the fire wall see if there is brake fluid on the wall also check the connection to the vacuum hose that comes from the intake manifold for leaks its a large hose 1/2 inside dia .It could also be leaking inturnaly witch it would be harded to tell but this is your problem you can pick one up at a junk yard for 20 dollars or so

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1 Answer

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I would unplug the parking brake switch and see if the light goes out. The erratic idle indicates a possible vacuum leak, check carefully around the throttle body mounting. Since it sat for a long time the throttle body gasket may be leaking. Check the intake manifold for tightness too. You probably replaced the PCV valve already. Leaking head gasket, may want to do a compression test. I did some checking and unfortunately your mileage may not be that far off, I got a wide range of fuel mileage ratings from 11mpg to 14mpg. That being said, a malfunctioning emissions system or restricted exhaust could cause excessive fuel consumption. Any chance a rat climbed in your tail pipe and built a nest? Ha Ha Ha. You haven't mentioned any check engine lights being on, still there could be an emissions system problem.

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2 Answers

Trailer brakes


Take a 12 volt test light... the kind that has a spring loaded clip to hold the probe into the wire, and insert it into the wire just before the trailer plug, vehicle side. (Blue I think) If there is a connection, the brake should see it and you should have an indicator light. When you activate the brake the test light should lite up. If not, move up to the brake actuator and test the blue wire. If there is nothing at the actuator, check the black wire. It is power to the controller. If no power there, check fuses again. If it does pick it up at the plug, connect the trailer and test the trailer itself. First ground to the trailer and then to the truck. Most problems are ground wire related. Then move to the axle and test it there. For the brakes to work, and even show on the indicator, there has to be a ground and power to the brakes themselves. There are 2 wires to each brake... a ground and a power. Test across both wires to make sure you have power and ground. You can also hook another trailer to your truck or another truck to your trailer. Lights can work through trailer ball ground. Brakes can't. leave the trailer unhooked from the trailer and hook the wiring up and test the lights. That usually will indicate a good or faulty ground. Also make sure there is a GOOD ground to the truck frame/body. Also try http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx. They have a great website with lots of info. Hope this helps. Mike

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1 Answer

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Intake brings the air outside into your room, exhaust pushes the air inside your room out.

What setting you use depends on your personal taste of temperatures and the temperature inside vs outside. If you set the thermostat to 72 degrees and it is more than that outside then I would use the exhaust setting. If you set it to 72 degrees, and it is 68 outside but 84 inside then I would set it onto intake to cool the inside air.

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1 Answer

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