Question about 1984 kawasaki KE 125

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Idles high when choke is fully closed

I have a 1984 ke 125 when you close the choke it will go into a high idle open just a little she idles and runs fine. anybody with some input could reallyhelp me out .

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  • lilmissch722 May 26, 2009

    thanks for the info jpolicky you gave me some new things to test out i was thinking it could be the pilot screw adjustment.the carb is clean and has nothing clog now have thing about a leak in the crank seal, head or base gasket .do i spray the head with carb cleaner or in the carb ?if there is a leak the idle will change if it dont, does this mean i have no leak?


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You are running lean. it could be a leak in the intake track. a plugged carb passages and or jets. A leak in a crank seal or head or base gaskets. spraying carb clean in any of these areas will change the idle if it is leaking in that area

Posted on May 26, 2009

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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Throttle cables improperly adjusted or pinched.
2. Idle adjusting screw needs to be backed off.
4. Air fuel mixture adjusted too lean start with 2 full turns.
5. Intake system air leak.
6. Fast idle choke ramp is not releasing.
7. Broken throttle return spring.
8. Damaged diaphragm or slide.
9. Faulty MAP, TPS, ATS, O2, sensors or wiring/connector
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Dirt Rider Magazine
YZ 125 Climbing high idle Yamaha 2 Stroke
How to Get Your 2 stroke Idle Perfect YZ125
Yamaha YZ125N1 Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha

Feb 17, 2014 | Yamaha YZ 125 Motorcycles

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2004 Honda CR 125 R carburetor high idle

Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Throttle cables improperly adjusted, pinched or need lubrication.
2. Idle adjusting screw needs to be backed off.
4. Air fuel mixture adjusted too lean start with 2 full turns.
5. Intake system air leak.
6. Fast idle choke ramp is not releasing.
7. Broken throttle return spring.
8. Damaged diaphragm or slide.
9. Faulty MAP, TPS, ATS, O2, sensors or wiring/connector.
10. Multiple carburetors not in sync.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
CR125 overly high idle at low idle settings help
Cr 125 2002 idling high
Honda CR 125R 2002 Sevice Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
Honda Elsinore CR125M Owner Manual

Jan 14, 2014 | 2004 Honda CR 125 R

1 Answer

I have a 1982 Kawasaki KZ1100D1 Spectre and have problems with it red-lining upon starting. It was running fine and idleing @ 1500rpm and I thought it was a little high so I adjusted the Idle screw and...

If you had to adjust with a screw driver you are probably altering the air bleed or mixture control and not the idle speed as a rough guide turn the screws fully in but do it gently as winding them in hard will damage the carbs and then undo the screw one and a half turns this should bring the carb back
into range
the idle adjustment is a finger adjustment knob in the center of the carbs(fuel tank lifted or removed to gain access) the problem with too high idle can be du to air leaks through the inlet rubbers leaking or being perished check for gaps bettween mating faces of carb rubbers to cylnder head

Feb 10, 2011 | 1984 kawasaki KE 125

3 Answers

The bike starts but wont idle by its self. ii am able to ride it but the choke has to by all the way on for it to run at all. i cant figure it out

If you are using choke to make it run, then the mixture is to weak. As its an old bike has anybody changed the main jet to a smaller on at some time? You can also look at the main needle itself. Some models hace a little clip on the top of the needle. If you move the clip down (there are little notches) it will raise the needle and richen the mixture. I would definately get the carb apart and check it has the correct jets and is clean.

Sep 09, 2010 | 1976 kawasaki KE 125

1 Answer

1.9 L starts just fine but will not keep running at idle. Stalls when coming to a stop (automatic). Just changed oil, didn't help. If I hold the idler arm just a tiny bit, runs just fine. Please...

With carbureted cars, the idle speed was set by adjusting a small screw that held the throttle open just a little. That screw rested on a sort of a disc with graduated steps on it, the fast idle cam. When the choke was partially or fully closed, that disc was turned a bit to present a higher step for that throttle-adjusting screw to rest on, providing a higher idle speed during warm-up.

With fuel injection, there is no choke, and the throttle blade almost completely closes at all temperatures and states of warm-up. When the richer mixture is needed that a choke used to provide, the Electronic Control Unit (or Electronic Control Module) simply flows more fuel through the injectors.

There also is a short (incha and a half, maybe?) air passage that opens onto either side of the throttle blade, a bypass passage. There is an electrically controlled valve in this passage.

When the engine is cold, the ECU opens that valve a little more to produce a faster idle, as the "fast idle cam" used to. When the air conditioner is turned on, presenting a load to the engine, that valve is electronically opened just a little to keep the idle speed the same even with the higher load. If the car has an automatic, when it is put into gear, that valve is opened a little to keep the engine running with the additional load the torque converter applies to the engine.

All of these idle-speed adjustments make use of a tachometer function in the ECU.

Now. These bypass air passages can become blocked, and the electrically operated valve (it is adjusted through a motor turning) can get enough accumulated crud on it to prevent its operation.

I would recommend first locating that bypass passage and its valve, disassemble that and clean everything carefully. Reassemble and see if all is well.

If not, I would think the ECU or its wiring is where the problem lies. Naturally, look for the connector that might have fallen off the bypass control valve, and so on.

The fact that the engine runs would seem to argue that the tachometer function and the accompanying circuitry are working correctly.

Aug 09, 2010 | 1999 Saturn SL

1 Answer

Bike wont kick start or idle , it will coast

first drain the carby, then set your air mixture screw 2 turns out, from the fully turned in position. The starting proceedure is as follows, when the engine is COLD, turn on fuel, pull on the choke fully, and kick the engine over. DO NOT use any throttle, when the engine is cold, and the choke is on. Remember Choke on, NO throttle.
When warm, no choke, and a little throttle when kicking.

May 12, 2010 | 2003 kawasaki KX 125

1 Answer

ECM switches from closed loop to open loop at idle after warmup


Sep 30, 2009 | 1984 Oldsmobile Delta 88

3 Answers

1984 yz 125 power valve how do i set it

You don't have to do anything It does it on its own as long as the pieces are all there. The power valve is the thing that opens up a larger exhaust hole for the two stroke engine. It is shaped like a spool and it twists as pressure builds due to high rpm. On the 1984 it is on the left side of the bike right up front behind the clutch cover.

Aug 04, 2009 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 125

2 Answers

1986 Honda Accord DX - too high idle on cold start

1986-1989 Honda Accord with Carburetor have a very bad habit that is little known even by most mechanics but easily fixed at home. The vacuum port on the choke opener that is connected to the intake manifold and both vacuum ports on the fast idle unloader get plugged up with nasty hard carbon almost as hard as metal. When this happens the choke sticks closed and the idle sticks on fast idle when the engine is cold and nobody can figure out why. All you have to do is attach a small drill bit to the end of a flexible socket-driver extension and put it in a variable speed drill that will let you run it real slow and carefully drill out the vacuum ports that are plugged. After they are nice and clean use a vacuum pump tester to make sure the choke opener and fast idle unloader are working before putting it all back together. It's amazing how much better the car runs after cleaning out those ports.

Jun 14, 2009 | 1986 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Off idle miss

and I'm out of ideas. I have a RR 125 Motard with about 12000 miles on the clock. It's been trouble free for the years that I've owned it. Recently I noticed a slight miss when running at part throttle. RPM doesn't matter it misses from idle to almost redline but only when the throttle is in the first 5% of it's range. I did the full routine, carb cleaning, valve adjustment (ugh...shims), air/fuel/oil filters. No change. At more than 5% throttle, there's no miss, and it pulls very strong. At full throttle, I don't have the guts to see the end of 4th gear. Tempurature doesn't make a difference, hot or cold, it runs the same, although when the choke is on (cold) there's no miss (but a high idle). Turning on the choke after it's wamed up it will bog and die (like it should). I suppose I could have missed something when cleaning the carbs, but usually, a little bit of choke will fix that. Not in this case. There's no hesitation when opening the throttle, and under high loads, any RPM, any gear, it runs fine. So, I'm at a loss. I'm open to suggestions. ,Check for vacuum leaks first - carb boots, vacuum lines, etc. Also check the CV diaphragms for cracks, splits and pinholes. Then, I think I'd re-check/clean the pilot jets. Then, if that doesn't help, I'd open the idle mixture screws a bit - maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turn to get a little richer mix.,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2008 Beta RR 125 Motard

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