Question about 2003 Yamaha YZ 250 F

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Oil/Water mixing and leaking

Oil (black) is leaking on to the ground.  An inch away oil and water (gray) is leaking on to the ground.  The leaks are coming from the inner primary gasket with the black coming from the rear of the primary and the gray coming from the front of the primary.
Kevin Fine Houston, Texas

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  • 16 Answers

You need to rebuild your engine sounds like you have a gasket leaking or you warped your primary

Posted on May 25, 2009

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Where are controls for draining holding tanks. Also where are gauges to see how full?


There are many campers and you gave so little information but I will try underneath where the 3 inch black pipe is it should have a cap take off the cap hook up a drain hose and put it in a sewer pipe right next to the drain are 2 handles a 2 inch foe gray water and 3 inch for black water pull on the handle it opens the drain tip dump the black first toilet the dump the gray to flush out the drain hose on the wall by the sink is a power panel it should say gray water fresh water and black water push the one you want to see the marks show how full hope this helps

Mar 15, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

The pump is leaking some gray fluid


Gray fluid is usually indicative of old oil with water mixed into it. First you have to determine if the fluid is coming out of the motor or pressure pump. Then change the oil in that, or both, and then watch the condition of the oil when you use the washer. With new oil, it won't turn gray but will get a milky coloration to it. There shouldn't be any way for water to get into the motor oil short of the engine being sprayed directly with high pressure water. If water is getting into the pump oil you'll have to check the seals inside the pump.

Feb 14, 2013 | Honda 5hp 5 Hp Engine Motor Xr2500 Xr 2600...

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My neon will not start replace heads and radiator frist


Signs of a Blown Head Gasket
Note: You can only truly confirm your suspicion by actually seeing the gasket, although precursor signs are usually evident.

Input from Answers.com contributors:

If you see coolant leaking from the water pump, I would pressure-test it and pinpoint the leak and fix that first; oil seepage isn't necessarily abnormal.
Typical symptoms of a blown head gasket may include these: bubbles of air coming up into your radiator (remove cap before starting); a leaking radiator; milkshake-colored oil; overheating; rough running; coolant or oil running from head; spark plug(s) that have a green tint (if green coolant); white-colored or sweet-smelling exhaust.
White smoke from your tail pipe, or loosing coolant through your overflow. Take the cap off and rev the engine: if you see bubbles, or if it comes out, you'll know.
A blown head gasket will leave a dark smell in the radiator. And you will have high back pressure coming though your radiator cap.
Take your car to a radiator shop to have a detector installed: If the blue liquid inside a "bulb" turns yellow, you have a leak.
Beware that if you drive for too long and it overheats, a blown engine will be your outcome.
A blown head gasket can go out in different areas causing different symptoms. Do a compression test to give you some idea. Don't confuse low compression for a bad head gasket, though. A bad valve can lower compression. And a bad ring.
There are lots of clues you can look for. When in doubt and you have tried everything, have the head checked out by a well-established machine shop first, to see if the head was the problem. This way you're not wasting your time replacing the gasket.
My car once had a blown head gasket. I had a great deal of coolant loss. The engine lacked power and ran poorly. It had white smoke coming out the tail pipe. And it overheated very quickly. Also, it had water in the oil.
A quick way to check: Look at your spark plugs; if coolant squirts out, you definitely have a blown head gasket!
Low compression does not necessarily mean a blown head gasket, but it is a good indicator if there is a sharp drop in compression on one or two cylinders, with no drop in the others. Sometimes a blown head gasket will cause a whistling or wheezing sound, but not always. It will not always cause water to enter the oil - or oil to enter the water - but they are signs to look for. Overheating will almost always occur, due to the exhaust entering the coolant. Check your overflow bottle for exhaust smells. Watch for bubbles or overflow of coolant from the radiator while running the engine. Check for muddy gray-looking oil or bubbles on the dipstick.
Often (but not always), a blown head gasket will also cause deposit of water on a piece of cardboard held an inch from the tailpipe output while the engine is running (when this is happening, it is likely that the catalytic converter has been ruined and the muffler will corrode in short order as well). Sometimes drops of water will be seen dropping from the end of the tailpipe.
Another clue: Turn on the heater; often when the head gasket is blown an odor of antifreeze and synthetic rubber will emanate from the heater vents.
Many of the symptoms of a blown head gasket can be caused by some other problem in the cooling system, without the head gasket being damaged. Conversely, other problems with the cooling system can cause a blown head gasket and/or warped head. For example, a corroding radiator can send chunks of rust through the cooling system which take out the thermostat and water pump. If the thermostat is old, sticking and corroding, it can send those chunks through the system and take out the water pump or cause a blockage in the radiator, etc.
Radiator leaks can be the primary cause, or a result, of failures in other cooling system components.
Don't keep driving with the car overheated, especially if your engine has an aluminum head; you are likely to warp it. If it is warped beyond a certain tolerance, it cannot be planed and will have to be replaced when the head gasket is replaced.
One of the most common tell-tale signs is a milky-gray ring around your oil cap. When coolant enters the engine oil through a crack in the head or through a blown gasket, it evaporates and leaves a milky ring around the oil cap. Another easy way to tell is to check your oil dipstick. Change your oil and pull out the dipstick. Make sure that you take note of how far up the dipstick the oil is. Top off your cooling system and fill your cooling reservoir to the top. Screw radiator cap back on and start engine. Run engine for about 20-30 minutes or until it reaches normal operating temperature. Allow engine to cool (engine must cool completely to get accurate oil reading). Check oil dipstick again. If the oil has a watery appearance and has risen noticeably up the dipstick, then you probably have a blown head gasket or a warped head. Also, look for a sweet-smelling liquid coming out of your tailpipe. Any of the above symptoms could be the result of a blown head gasket.
The easiest way to tell is with a compression meter. This replaces the spark plug and lets you know what compression each cylinder is running at. If your compression is abnormally low, then you have a blown head gasket or a warped head. (Note: check the repair manual for appropriate compression of each cylinder.)
This can be detected in a variety of ways: One way is to note whether that part of the engine block is leaking fluid. This is difficult to determine since there are many other parts of the engine nearby that can also leak fluids, especially when a vehicle is parked in one place for more than a few hours. One of the best indications of a blown, or nearly blown, head gasket in most automobiles is when the cooling system appears to be malfunctioning. The cooling system's efficiency and performance can be directly affected by the quality of the head gasket.
If your radiator is getting low on water often, this is a sign. The water could be discharged through the tailpipe on your automobile. Another sign is if your car motor has a miss in the engine. The water could be going in on top of the cylinders. This will foul the plugs and cause it to miss.
There are a few simple indicators you can check for with the engine cold and not running: 1) contaminated oil - it will have a milky appearance from the water mixing in the oil 2) oil on the top of the coolant inside the radiator (if your vehicle has a remote header tank you may not get this); 3) Have someone crank (remove the coil lead or disable the electronic ignition) the engine on the starter with the radiator cap or coolant jacket bleed hose/bolt removed. If the coolant pulses up and down or blows bubbles, you could be in trouble. If you find any of these symptoms move on to removing the spark plugs (label the plugs and the leads as you remove them, so you can put them back in the same place) and again crank the engine on the starter. Depending on how badly your head or gasket is gone, you may get coolant or oil coming out of the plug holes. Inspection of the plugs will also reveal problems during combustion: if you have rusty flaky deposits on the plugs, you may be burning off water; and if you have a heavy carbon, you are burning oil. If you have any of the first 3 items listed (water in oil, oil in water, or pulsing coolant - but don't get any result from checking the plugs) change the oil and water as appropriate, then warm up the engine without the radiator cap on (or the bleeder hose/bolt) and watch for bubbles as the engine warms up. Put the cap back on the cooling system and take the vehicle for a short drive, or run the engine till the entire system is up to temperature and then check the oil for contamination. Having these symptoms is not always indicative of a blown head gasket; usually if the gasket is gone, there is going to be some warping of the head and or block of the engine.
Loss of engine coolant with no external leaks, a continuous stream of bubbles can be seen with the radiator cap off, black gummy and sometimes crusty stuff around the radiator


Several common signs of a blown head gasket:

Blue/white smoke coming out the tail pipe which indicates oil is burning
Dripping oil from the gasket itself
Carbon Monoxide or hydrocarbons in the cooling reservoir
Excessive coolant loss with no obvious source of leakage
Loss of power or a rough engine due to compression loss
Water mixing with oil
Oil mixing with water
Low compression in 2 or more adjacent cylinders
Remove dipstick and let a drop of fluid fall on hot part of engine - oil will smoke water will "sizzle"

Jul 29, 2012 | 2004 Dodge Neon

1 Answer

SEEPS GREY OIL


May be time for re-seal kit. Usually, water leaking into crank case of the pump will mix with the oil /grease and produce gray looking foam. This grey looking substance still has lubricating properties but is a sign that the seals are failing and allowing water to enter the crankcase. The water can enter thur /past the piston seals or thru crack in the chamber. On some high pressure pumps, there is space between the rear is the piston/cylinder area and the oil/crank case. This space will allow water leaking past the cylinder seals to drain out of the pump and not enter the crankcase. In any case, water or oil leaking out of the pump is not normal. If your pump has several hundered hours of use, check on ebay for complete replacement instead or rebuilding (rebuilding a pump is not always successful, for reliable performance, replace the whole pump with same or upgraded model ). Good luck

Dec 18, 2011 | Karcher 2500 PSI Pressure Washer

1 Answer

Grey solutions seep out


Usually indicates that water is leaking past piston seals into oil of crankcase.
Remove oil plug and check for gray foamy oil in crankcase. If oil looks normal (compare to motor oil) oil may be entering pump chamber (not very likely due to high pressure, generally water will be forced into crankcase). If foamy oil is found, time for reseal kit or replace complete pump.

Dec 18, 2011 | Karcher 2500 PSI Pressure Washer

1 Answer

My 2000 Toyota Celica GTS seems to have oil leak mixed with air conditioner water, I can see some sort of water mixed with oilish liquid on the ground underneath of right in front tire of my car.


IF your A/C were actually leaking, it will quit operation soon. And you would lose cooling before that, so if the AC is working, unlikely there is a problem with it.
I suspect you have condensed water mixing with oil on the pavement....

Jun 16, 2011 | Toyota Celica Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

2004 vw touareg 2.5 tdi the oil sump was full of water and oil mix,also inlet manifold had oil and water mix.number 5 cylinder had locked up and engine would not turn,so i removed glow plugs and cranked...


Can not be water pump, because that has a vent hole to the outside, and does not at all allow access to crankcase or cylinders. Oil cooler is also unlikely because oil is under more pressure than the water, and it would not get into the cylinder.
Water in the cylinder means up high.
That means head gasket or cracked head.
You can tell with a leak down test.
You borrow the gauge from a place like Autozone, and replace the water reservoir cap with it. Over pump it, about 30 psi. And watch for leaks. If same cylinder keeps filling, then you know where the bad gasket or head crack is. Diesels often crack heads. Not hard to do, but new head is not cheap. Probably $500 for part, $400 labor.

Feb 22, 2011 | 2005 Volkswagen Touareg

3 Answers

Have a 2000 kia sephia it has new raditor, but about every 2 or 3 days have to add water its not leaking where is it going?


ITS EVAPORATING AWAY.YOU NEED 50/50 WATER AND ANTIFREEZE.WHEN YOU MIX IT HALF AND HALF.IT RAISE BOILING POINT.

Aug 03, 2009 | 2000 Kia Sephia

1 Answer

Water in the oil


I need a little more information before I can help with this problem. Is the leak from the oil pan? From where the engine mounts to the transmission? Is it water or coolant? Is there any noises associated with your motor since this problem started?

Jul 08, 2009 | 1994 Buick Century

3 Answers

Leaking both oil and a mixture of oil and water


well when you have water and oil both leaking it most of the time means a head gasket or in your case a jug gasket

May 25, 2009 | 2004 Yamaha YZ 250

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