Question about 2008 Triumph Street triple

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No spark on zxr750j2

Hi ya everyone got a zxr750j2. bought a second hand igniter. still no spark. i have run a test on the pick up coil i am getting a reading. power going to the igniter. when i earth the wires that go the coils from the igniter one at a time of the earth of the batt i get a spark if i very quickly keep flicking the wire on the earth. i think i have bought a crappy igniter same as the old one does that sound about right. everything else seems to check out. the fuse box has seen better days all though seems to be power going to and from the box. there is three little resisters in side looks like one has been burning hot any ideas how to check the igniter with anything thanks kwaka30

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, when starting check for the presence or absence of :

  • +12 on the red wires of the ignition coil;
  • very high pulsating voltage on the black & green wires from the CDI to the other terminals of the coils;
  • very low pulsating voltage (0.5VAC) between the green & black wires from pulser coil;
  • +12 on the brown wire of the CDI.
Additionally, try starting with the clutch lever pulled in and/or the side stand folded up.

Postback results of tests.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on May 28, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

2007 ATK dirt bike no spark


Hi, Ken and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and CDI box.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting / leaking, spark plug cable connections loose, check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil, pick up coil, trigger coil or CDI box testing needs to be checked with an ohmmeter at 70 degrees Fahrenheit
7. Faulty safety switches clutch, kickstand, neutral, off/on etc.
8. Faulty ignition switch.
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Nov 12, 2016 | ATK Motorcycles

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Engine stop


If theres no spark from the spark plugs then you would have to replace them?

Jul 12, 2008 | 1993 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

Yamaha 90/2stroke runs fine at revs but will only idle on 1 cylinder


Hi, Wayne and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and CDI box.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting / leaking, spark plug cable connections loose, check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil, pick up coil, trigger coil or CDI box testing needs to be checked with an ohmmeter at 70 degrees Fahrenheit
7. Faulty safety switches clutch, kickstand, neutral, off/on etc.
8. Faulty ignition switch.
Good luck and have a nice day.

Nov 12, 2016 | Yamaha Motorcycles

1 Answer

Intermittent spark bike runs good shut off after work no spark next day starts right up


Hi, Joey and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and CDI box.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting / leaking, spark plug cable connections loose, check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil, pick up coil, trigger coil or CDI box testing needs to be checked with an ohmmeter at 70 degrees Fahrenheit
7. Faulty safety switches clutch, kickstand, neutral, off/on etc.
8. Faulty ignition switch.
Good luck and have a nice day.

Oct 21, 2016 | Motorcycles

2 Answers

I guess the question is, how do I fix my problem. My problem is, I can get the truck to start-up. But it won't stay running. It only 'runs' for like 1-2 seconds. What do I do?


Hi Mathew

Dont know your car or model.

But.... Some info may help.
Ignitions systems apply 12v to Start motor & often supplies 12v around a resistor (wire) to boost 12v to the coil then the ignition key rotates back to another position. Run.
This connects 12v to the ignition system / coil through a resistor to the ignition coil (reduced) to run the vehicle.
This is how older models worked.
So... The ignition key run position may not be providing 12v to the ignition circuit. Car Stalls untill restarted.
Use a 12v test light or multimeter to test primary side of spark circuit.
Newer models may not use these methods any more.

cheers

Apr 20, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1983 oldsmobile cutlass supreme,wont start


Well, you know the ignition coil has to be good. then the ignition control module inside the distributor has to be good. It controls the ignition coil firing times. This module can be tested at a parts store. And then, also in the distributor and attached to the ICM is the pick-up coil which tells the computer crankshaft position, so the computer knows when to signal the Ignition Control Module that it is to cause spark out of the coil. These are the components of the ignition system, so you know how to check them. Ignition coil, ICM, pick-up coil, and the pcm, computer.

First, check that power is getting to the coil when the key is turned to on. The coil must have battery voltage applied to it before it can cause spark. If there is power there, test the ignition coil, test the ICM, then the pick-up coil. If your wiring is good, one of them components may have failed. And of course, the last thing to suspect is the computer, the pcm. Hope you don't have to get that far.

Jan 11, 2015 | 1983 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

2 Answers

No spark from coil 1991 chrysler labaron v 6


Start by testing the ignition coil primary, and secondary resistance.

To measure the primary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals (the terminals which are connected to the engine wiring harness) on the coil. To test the secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the positive (+) coil terminal and the high voltage cable terminal on the coil. Then, measure the resistance between the positive (+) coil terminal and the coil case; the resistance for the case should exhibit infinite resistance. For coils manufactured by Diamond, the primary resistance at 70-80°F (21-27°C) should be 0.97-1.18 ohms and the secondary resistance should be 11,300-15,300 ohms. Coils built by the Toyodenso company should exhibit a primary resistance at 70-80°F (21-27°C) of 0.95-1.20 ohms and a secondary resistance of 11,300-13,300 ohms. Replace any coil with a new one if it does not meet the specifications.

FAILURE-TO-START TEST Before proceeding with this test make certain that spark has been checked for at the coil. Refer to the ignition coil testing procedures. Failure to do this may lead to unnecessary diagnostic time and wrong test results. CAUTION
Be sure to apply the parking brake and block the wheels before performing any test with the engine running.
  1. Check the battery voltage. It must be at least 12.4 volts to perform the test. If the battery voltage is not at least 12.4 volts, refer to Section 1 for battery charging procedures.
  2. Crank the engine for 5 seconds while monitoring the voltage at the coil positive (+) terminal. If the voltage remains near zero during the entire period of cranking, refer to Section 4 for the On-board Diagnostic checks. The checks will test the PCM and the auto shutdown relay.
  3. If the voltage is at near-battery voltage and drops to zero after 1-2 seconds of cranking, refer to Section 4 On-board Diagnostic procedures. The problem is likely to be related to the distributor reference pick-up circuit to the PCM.
  4. If the voltage remains at near battery voltage during the entire 5 seconds, with the key OFF, remove the PCM 60-way connector. Check the 60-way connector for any terminals that are pushed out or loose.
  5. Remove the connector to the coil positive (+) and connect a jumper wire between the battery positive (+) terminal and the coil (+) terminal.
  6. Using the special jumper wire shown in the illustration, momentarily ground terminal No. 19 of the 60-way connector. A spark should be generated when the ground is removed.
  7. If a spark is generated, replace the PCM with a new one.
  8. If no spark is generated, use the special jumper wire to ground the coil negative (-) terminal directly.
  9. If a spark is produced, inspect the wiring harness for an open circuit condition.
  10. If no spark is produced, replace the ignition coil with a new one.
TESTING
  1. Check for stored trouble codes, then proceed as follows:
    • Fault code 11 - proceed to the next step.
    • Fault code 54 - proceed to step 6.
    NOTE: Before proceeding, verify that a minimum of 12.4 volts is available from the battery for operation of cranking and ignition systems.
  2. Test the distributor pick-up signal reference circuit as follows:
    1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
    2. Unplug the distributor pick-up connector.
    3. Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and have an assistant hold it 1⁄4 in. (6mm) from a good engine ground.
    4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
    5. Connect a jumper wire to the gray (GY) wire terminal and touch the other end of the jumper wire to the black/light blue (BK/LB) wire terminal on the distributor harness connector several times. While performing this, observe the coil wire.
      • If there is spark from the coil wire, proceed to the next step
      • If there is no spark from the coil wire, the problem is in the engine controller or wiring.
  3. Check the power supply to the distributor reference pick-up as follows:
    1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
    2. Connect a voltmeter between the orange wire in the harness connector and a known good ground.
      • If the reading on the voltmeter is 8-9.5 volts, proceed to the next step.
      • If the reading is anything but 8-9.5 volts, check for problems in the circuit between the reference connector and the engine controller.
  4. Check the mechanical operation of the distributor as follows:
    1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
    2. Remove the distributor cap from the distributor housing.
    3. Crank the engine while observing the ignition rotor.
      • If the distributor rotor revolves while the engine is being cranked over, replace the distributor pick-up coil assembly with a new one.
      • If the distributor rotor did not rotate, inspect the engine for a mechanical fault and repair as necessary.
  5. If fault code 54 (No distributor sync pick-up signal) is being received, or was received before performing this test, proceed as follows:
    1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
    2. Unplug the distributor pick-up connector.
    3. Connect a voltmeter to the tan/yellow (TN/YL) wire of the harness connector.
    4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
      • If the reading on the voltmeter is at 4 volts, replace the distributor pick-up coil assembly.
      • If the reading is 0 volts, check for an open in the wiring harness between the reference connector and the engine controller.

Jan 30, 2011 | 1991 Chrysler LeBaron

2 Answers

No spark from spark plug wires I think it may be the distributor cap or interior parts under cap like rotor and condensor but dont want to change parts thats are fine i replaced the plugs but still no...


There wrere two types of HEI (High Energy Ignition) distributors used by GM in 1985, one was the original design with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap, and the second had the coil mounted seperate from the distributor and used a coil wire.

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also if the coil is seperate from the distributor that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That could be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.


GM HEI Ignition Coil (Mounted In Distributor Cap Type)
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Jul 30, 2010 | 1985 Chevrolet Chevy

3 Answers

NO SPARK ON A 98 RM 125


Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, test for the presence / absence of below described voltages using an analog / needle type voltmeter when starting the bike:
  • pulsating low AC voltage coming from the pickup coil;
  • pulsating voltage feeding the ignition coil.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Dec 18, 2009 | 2003 Suzuki RM 125

3 Answers

1986 gsxr 400.not sparking r starting


Hi and welcome to FixYa,

If somehow, the CDI could be opened up, then component level repair maybe tried. There would be 2 final transistors that actually do the switching; 1 for each coil. Offhand, it would appear that 1 of those 2 is faulty. Otherwise, replacement is the only option.

Incidentally, in some versions, a fault in the tachometer could also cause one of the CDI's output to fail.

Postback results of tests.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

May 27, 2009 | 1996 Honda CBR 400 RR

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