Question about 2001 Honda VT 1100 C2 Shadow Sabre

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Remove plug wire from coil

My front right plug keeps fouling and I want to remove the plug wire and test for continuity. Do you need to remove the gas tank to get at the coil/plug wires on an 01 honda shadow sabre od is there a trick to removing it with the tank in place?

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  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2014

    Remove and install coil

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I would check to see if you have spark before you try to disassemble your bike. Fouled plugs are usually contaminants in the fuel system or your heads are having problems. If you do not have a fuel filter in the bike then try putting one in as this is a cheep fix and gas should be filtered any way. Check the timing to make sure it has the proper amount of advance. Run the bike for a while and if the problem persists. Side gapping the plugs to a larger gap will also help prevent fouling. This is a trick many race car mechanics use. If none of these work, then the heads need to be refurbished.

Posted on May 24, 2009

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Hoover dryer dyc88132bxc no heat


Hi Amanda
Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Bud

Oct 10, 2013 | Hoover Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer will not heat up


Hi Thornell J
Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Bud

Oct 09, 2013 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

THERE IS NO POWER GETTING TO THE DRYER BOSCH WTE83601EE EVEN THOUGH THERE IS POWER AT THE PLUG,ANY IDEA OF THE PROBLEM? THANKS PAUL


Hi paulgfox...
Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
But do not trust the ohm meter all the time, because sometimes it will give a false positive that the fuse is ok when in reality it is faulty.
DO THE FOLLOWING TEST:
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
This test of the thermal fuses,thermistor,thermostat, will show if the thermal fuse,thermostat,thermister is really faulty or not.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
DO THE FOLLOWING: Remove the wires and tape them together and try to start the dryer.If the dryer starts then replace the fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

Sep 24, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer runs, drum spins but stays cool and does not warm up at all. We keep lint filter clean every load. What could be wrong it?


Hi gcfink03...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuseremove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me

Aug 23, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

I have no spark in back cylinder and i have spark in front could it b a coil


Could be the coil, check the spark plug cap and wire first. Most plug caps are screwed on the wire, unscrew it and test continuity with an ohmmeter. If that checks out check the wire to make sure it has no damage to the insulation. If it will unscrew from the coil,(some are molded in and can't be removed) run a continuity test on it as well. If that checks out, you'll need to get the factory resistance spec's for the coil to test it. Good luck!

Jun 13, 2011 | 2001 Yamaha V Star Classic

1 Answer

Im sorry,its a 1997 ford 302 (1997 mercury mountaineer) codereader indicates 'no. 7 cylinder misfire'


remove the #7 spark plug if it does not look fouled start the vehicle with the plug still connected and look at the ground electrode for any spark it should be a white arc which indicates a high intensity spark if its orange/red it is a weak spark. If you get a poor spark try removing any other spark plug and test it on the #7 coil wire If you still get a poor spark then your plug wire or ignition coil is to blame and would need to be replaced. You can swap your plus wire to test it in the same way as well. hope this helps

Mar 05, 2011 | 1997 Mercury Mountaineer

2 Answers

My 1990 3.3ltr skylark will turn over but it is not getting any fire from the distributor and plug wires and the coils all have continuity. Tried replacing the alternator but still no fire and won't...


try the rotor under the distributer cap, remove cap , remove rotor cap and replace, also note if it has black sooty marks on center cap known for fouling.

Jan 15, 2011 | 1990 Buick Skylark

1 Answer

What should a multimeter read on a continuity test on the coil packs? i'm getting 1.9,1.7,1.7


The multimeter can read the resistance and if it is not open or shorted out, I'd say that your readings are in the normal range, comparing each resistance with each other + or - 10%.

I looked up the resistance readings on my online resource, but they did not list it specifically.
---
I looked up the following on autozone.com:

There are 3 dual-tower ignition coils that are part of the ignition control module (ICM). The ICM contains coil driver circuits that command the coils to operate. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) controls each dual-tower ignition coil by transmitting timing pulses on the ignition coil control circuit to the ICM for the proper coil to enable a spark event.
  1. Inspect the spark plug wires for proper orientation.
  2. With the ignition OFF, remove the fuel pump relay.
  3. Crank the engine and test for a strong spark on each cylinder spark plug wire using a suitable spark plug tester. Ground the companion cylinder spark plug wire of each cylinder when it is tested.

    If a strong bright blue spark is present on all of the cylinders, remove and inspect all of the spark plugs for proper torque, proper gap, wear, damage, and fouling. Replace the spark plugs if necessary. If there is no spark on any of the cylinders, test the ignition voltage circuit of the Ignition Coil Module (ICM) for an open/high resistance or short to ground, or test the ground circuit of the ICM for an open/high resistance, or a faulty ICM. The wire circuit resistance should measure less than 3 ohms. If there is no spark on any of the cylinders, or spark is weak or intermittent, test the IC circuit for an open/high resistance, or a faulty ICM. The wire circuit resistance should measure less than 3 ohms. If spark is present on one or more of the cylinders, inspect and test the spark plug wires for arching, cuts, rubbing on other components, and proper resistance. If all tests are normal, then the system is operating correctly.
    ---

Oct 08, 2010 | 2000 Chevrolet Venture

1 Answer

Missing put tuneup on spark plug and wires dis.cap and rotor pickup coil ignition coil run better for maybe 1-2 week now about same


Have the system scanned for codes. Remove the plugs and check for fouling. A fouled plug can indicate a bad injector or bad piston rings. There are other plug conditions that you need to pay attention to as well. Find a chart in any good manual.
There is no one "solution" for your problem. Could be from a bad temp sensor, bad O2 sensor, manifold air temp sensor or something else. That's why testing is so important.

Aug 31, 2010 | 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

1988 honda civic 1.5 l engine turns over but will not spark or run,new spark plugs,roter,and cap still no spark


well if this is the model i think it is you have pgm ignition. you have an ignition coil , ignitor unit, ground wires all(corrosion) left to check.
coil testing
  1. With ignition switch OFF, remove the distributor cap.
  2. Remove the two screws to disconnect the BLK/YEL front terminal A and WHT/BLU from terminal B of the coil.
  3. Using an ohmmeter, check resistance between terminals. Replace coil if resistance is not within specification.
  4. Check that the primary winding resistance between terminals A and B is 0.3-0.5 ohms.
  5. Check that the secondary winding resistance between terminals A and the coil tower is 9,440-14,160 ohms.
  6. If not within specifications, replace the coil.

unit testing
    1. Check and service any Honda engine codes before proceeding.
    2. Check the No. 32 50A fuse on 1985-91 models, or the No. 39 50A fuse on 1992-95 models in the dash fuse box before testing.
    3. Remove the distributor cap, rotor and the leak cover.
    4. Disconnect the wires from the igniter.
    5. Turn the ignition switch ON.
    6. Check for voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and ground. If there is no voltage check the BLK/YEL wire and ignition switch.
    7. Check for voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and ground. If there is no voltage check the WHT/BLU wire and the ignition coil.
    8. Check the continuity between the WHT wire and body ground. Service the wire or connectors as needed.
    9. Check for continuity between the BLU wire and body ground. If no continuity check the wire and connectors between the igniter unit and the
tachometer or the A/Trans control unit.

after these things let me know if problem persists
    1. If any tests were not passed, replace the igniter unit.

Mar 07, 2009 | 1988 Honda Civic 2 Door

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