Question about 2006 Yamaha Stratoliner S

4 Answers

Chirping sound coming from upper part of engine

I have a chirping sound that seems to be at the upper part of the engine between the cylinders, I have tightend up all the exhaust and no change. The local Yamaha dealer said it is the stator due to having added a radio to the bike, however I've disconnected the battery and still have the problem. Initially the chirping would take a minute or 2 after the bike started to begin chirping, now it starts as soon as the bike starts up. I have examined the pressure regulator on the left side of the bike behind the cover between the cylinders and the sound is loud there but doesn't seem to be leaking or venting from there. The chirping has gotten louder and more intense as this has gone on. Any help would be great. Thanks

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  • rjantx May 24, 2009

    The sound is not coming from any electronic component or from the horn. The chirping gets faster as rpms are increased and slow down at idle. Sounds like a bearing chirp or possibly a vacuum leak but I haven't found anything that corresponds to that.

  • rjantx May 24, 2009

    Engine oil is full and have no belts, tensioners etc in the area of where the noise is coming from.

  • rjantx May 24, 2009

    Thanks for the information, I actually sell bikes so I don't think I've ridden it in a way that would have dumped gas into the cylinders too much since it is a fuel injected engine. Also I haven't noticed any lack or change in power since the chirping has started up, I have taken off the sides and am looking at taking the tank off to get to the top of the engine as that seems to be where the loudest chirping is coming from. This is a 1900cc bike and is fuel injected and has 2 plugs per cylinder if that helps in assessing what it may be, I am not real familiar with pre-ignition on a bike and don't know what would have caused it to suddenly start. When it first started I would start it up and wouldn't have any sound then it would come up bit quiet and then get louder. Your information is best so far that I've gotten so with the additional information let me know if you think of anything else that may be going on. Thanks.

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Check in your gear shifting section fill new oil in it.
then check

Posted on May 25, 2009

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What you're hearing is pre-ignition or detonation. Both are abnormal combustion and to keep this description a little shorter we'll just combine the two and call both pre-ignition.
Pre-ignition, as the term suggests, is the ignition of the fuel-air mixture before the regular ignition spark from the spark plug. If the regular spark occurs shortly after the pre-ignition, the colliding of the two flame fronts will cause a chirping noise. Pre-ignition causes loss of engine power and can cause severe damage to pistons, rings and valves.

With the 1500/1600 engine the problem is especially severe in summer when intake air is typically 40 or 50 degrees higher than winter air.
Many, maybe most pre-ignition is not the bikes fault, it's mostly the riders. Lugging the engine (riding at too slow a speed for the rider’s choice of transmission gear) causes the engine to be very sluggish so the rider rolls on more throttle, dumping a lot of fuel into the cylinders that can't be burned so a lot of that turns to carbon. Eventually the carbon sticking to pistons and valves develops little feathery edges which become hot spots. When the throttle is opened, combustion chamber pressures go up, heat goes up (especially in summer) and those hot spots try to ignite the fuel/air mixture before the spark plug does. The "knock" or "ping" or 'collection of marbles' rattle that the rider hears is a series of colliding flame fronts that are radically changing the ignition timing at best actually trying to force the piston backward if the mixture is ignited soon enough at worst.

Pre-ignition not only causes power loss that the rider can feel but it's also hammering the piston rings. Eventually it can hammer them so hard they break and then you have some very serious problems. In extreme situations a hole can even be punched in the top of a piston.

so get your ignition coil checked and serviced.
this will help.

please do rate the solution.thank you for using fixya.keep updated.thanks.

Posted on May 24, 2009

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Step 1 - Engine Making a Tapping, Clicking or Rattling Noise (lower and upper engine noise) - Check the engine oil level, your engine depends on clean engine oil to lubricate the internal moving parts, if the engine oil level is low or the oil is dirty it can cause internal engine parts to malfunction. For example: a valve lifter is responsible for holding valve train clearance to a minimum, if the oil level is low or dirty it can cause the lifter to malfunction which will allow excess valve train clearance creating engine tapping or clicking noise. In extreme cases or when your engine has run out or close to out it can cause one of the many bearing surfaces to fail causing permanent engine damage and noise until repairs have been made. If this condition is left unattended the engine will suffer permanent damage and fail. If your engine is making a noise change the engine oil and filter with the manufacturers recommended weight (viscosity) oil first, if that does not make a difference engine repair work is needed.
Step 2 - Engine making a Squeaking, Squealing, Chirping or Rattling Sound (front engine noise) - To check for a squeaking noise that could be generated by the engine accessories, accessory mounts, drive belts or drive pulleys. When an accessory, accessory bracket, belt or drive pulley fails it can make a rattling, squeaking or tapping noise. These sounds are centrally located near the front of the engine. With the engine off, check the tension of the belt/belts, it should be at medium tension a loose or worn belt can make a loud squealing or chirping noise, check the belt tensioner and the size of the belt to make sure the right belt is installed. To isolate the origin of the noise, remove the main drive belt and start the engine. If the sounds disappears an accessory, accessory bracket, belt or pulley has failed. (Ford Cars and Trucks reference to step 6 - all other cars reference step 7 and 8) With a flashlight inspect the brackets and pulleys that connect the alternator, air conditioner compressor, power steering pump, and air pump if equipped to the engine. Look for signs of rust, this indicates broken or loose metal parts rubbing together which can generate squeaks and ticking noises. Replace the failed bracket or pulley as needed and recheck. If the bracket is ok rotate each accessory by hand to check for hard spots or seized bearings in the accessory and replace as needed.
Step 3 - Engine making a Rattling, Knocking or Tapping Sound (upper engine noise) - If you hear a lighter tapping noise from the upper half of the engine, shut the engine off and remove the valve covers. A camshaft is commonly used to operate poppet valves in a piston engine. A cylindrical rod is situated in the cylinder block or cylinder head that has oblong lobes or cams which push open the intake and exhaust valves. This force is applied on the valve directly or through an intermediate mechanism such as a rocker arm, lifter (cam follower) and push rods that are used to press against the valve for movement. Each valve utilizes a spring that will return the valve to its original position (closed) after the force is removed. If a valve spring has broken or a cam lobe is worn down it will cause the engine to create a tapping or clicking sound. To test for this condition, remove the ignition coil connector, ignition system or fuel pump fuse to disable power to the ignition or fuel system. Remove the valve covers to gain access to visually inspect the valve train. Have a helper crank the engine over while you watch the rocker arms or cam lobes, make sure they are all going up and down the same amount, if one or more lobes are traveling less than the others you might have a flattened cam lob and the camshaft needs to be replaced or a hydraulic lifter/follower (where applicable) that has collapsed and will need to be replaced. Also inspect the condition of the valve springs, use a flashlight and small mirror to aid in the inspection if needed. If a broken valve spring is discovered it will need to be replaced to correct the problem. And the final check, look at the height of the valve springs and retainers when in the closed position (pressure off) they should be exactly the same height. If one valve is higher or lower something is wrong with the cylinder head, valve or valve seat and needs to be repaired.
Step 4 - Engine making a Rattling, Knocking or Tapping Sound (lower engine noise) - If a heavier noise seems to be generated from the lower half of the engine the problem can be more serious and disassembly maybe required. But, sometimes a lower engine noise could be generated due to excessive carbon (carbon is a natural by-product of the combustion process) build up on top of the piston. This noise is created when carbon is compressed between the piston and the cylinder head. If you elect to perform a de-carbon procedure start and run the engine until warm, have a helper hold the engine at about 1500 RPM. As the engine is running poor a small amount of water down the throttle body, about a cup, you are creating a steam cleaning effect to break up the carbon that will exit the engine. Don't worry if steam is generated from the exhaust during the treatment, this is normal. If noise is gone after the treatment the carbon has been removed, if the engine noise is still there lower engine disassembly is required.

Posted on May 24, 2009

  • Aftab Nawaz May 24, 2009



    • Step 5 - Engine Humming or Honking Noise, (Ford Cars and Trucks Only)
      -
      The
      IAC motor (idle air control) controls idle air to the engine.
      This process enables the computer to adjust idle engine idle speed. Ford has
      manufactured an IAC motor (idle air control) that creates a loud humming sound,
      almost like honking when it fails. If your engine is generating this noise replace
      the IAC with a new unit and recheck system.



    • Step 6 - Engine Squeaking or Chirping Noise with the Multi Rib Belt
      Removed, (Ford Cars and Trucks Only) -
      Ford V6 and V8 engines only
      with a CAS (cam angle sensor). Starting in the 90's ford started to manufacturer
      engines equipped with a CAS. This sensor assembly is basically a distributor
      housing with a sensor and trigger plate mounted to a center shaft. This center
      shaft is driven by the camshaft. The problem is, Ford slowed the oiling to the
      distributor housing and this causes the housing to seize to the center shaft. The
      CAS seizes due to lack for oil making a high pitched squeaking noise, like a
      loose belt. To check for this condition remove the drive belt and restart the
      engine. If the noise is still there suspect the CAS, remove the unit and (by
      hand) spin it. If the unit has failed it will be rough to turn, either dissemble
      the unit to clean or replace the CAS housing with new.



    • Step 7 - Engine Making Noise From the Front - Squeaking, Tapping or Chirping
      Noise with the Multi Rib Belt Removed -
      Some engines are
      manufactured with a timing belt. This belt is used to keep the crankshaft in 2 to
      1 correlation with the
      camshaft. This belt is kept under tension by the belt tensioner. This belt tensioner is constructed with a bearing that sometimes
      can fail, creating a squeaking noise or chirping sound. Also when this tensioner
      or timing belt starts to fail it can cause the timing belt to misalign. This
      condition will cause the timing belt to shred producing ticking/scraping noises inside
      the timing belt cover. If you are not sure your car has a timing belt, visit
      this page:
      timing belt diagrams



    • Step 8 - Engine Making Noise From the Rear - An engine flex-plate
      is used in
      automatic transmission cars. It is used to connect power form the
      engine to the
      torque converter
      of the transmission. When a flex plate fails it usually cracks at the
      crankshaft mounting bolts. If the flex-plate is cracked it will make little
      to no noise at idle, and make more noise depending on how much load the
      engine is under. The more throttle that is applied the louder the noise will
      become.
      To check for this condition remove the flywheel inspection plate or cover. Using
      a small flashlight and mirror, check for signs of rust dust near or around the
      bolts. Rust dust indicates broken or cracked metal on metal contact. It is these
      cracks flexing back and forth that generate the ticking noises. Once this condition
      has occurred the only way to repair the problem is to replace the flex-plate.
      This requires removing the transmission from the engine.




    WARNING! Always have the vehicle under inspection on level
    ground, in park with the emergency brake on. Always wear protective eyewear, gloves
    and necessary clothing before inspection or work begins. Never crank an engine over
    when anyone is near the battery or engine. Always have an operational fire extinguisher
    close by, obey all first aid instructions in the event of an injury. Never stand
    in front or behind a vehicle when starting or running. When engine is cranked over
    keep hands and clothing away from rotating components. Anyone with a heart pacemaker
    should not perform these tests.


  • Aftab Nawaz May 24, 2009

    http://www.2carpros.com/first_things/why...

    you can also take help from this site...........Thanks


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  • Yamaha Master
  • 19,396 Answers

Check that the noise is not coming from any electronic part, as for example a shorted horn or a blown capacitor on any electronic circuit.

Posted on May 24, 2009

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