Question about 2006 Yamaha Stratoliner S
I have a chirping sound that seems to be at the upper part of the engine between the cylinders, I have tightend up all the exhaust and no change. The local Yamaha dealer said it is the stator due to having added a radio to the bike, however I've disconnected the battery and still have the problem. Initially the chirping would take a minute or 2 after the bike started to begin chirping, now it starts as soon as the bike starts up. I have examined the pressure regulator on the left side of the bike behind the cover between the cylinders and the sound is loud there but doesn't seem to be leaking or venting from there. The chirping has gotten louder and more intense as this has gone on. Any help would be great. Thanks
Check in your gear shifting section fill new oil in it.
Posted on May 25, 2009
What you're hearing is pre-ignition or detonation. Both are abnormal combustion and to keep this description a little shorter we'll just combine the two and call both pre-ignition.
Pre-ignition, as the term suggests, is the ignition of the fuel-air mixture before the regular ignition spark from the spark plug. If the regular spark occurs shortly after the pre-ignition, the colliding of the two flame fronts will cause a chirping noise. Pre-ignition causes loss of engine power and can cause severe damage to pistons, rings and valves.
With the 1500/1600 engine the problem is especially severe in summer when intake air is typically 40 or 50 degrees higher than winter air.
Many, maybe most pre-ignition is not the bikes fault, it's mostly the riders. Lugging the engine (riding at too slow a speed for the rider’s choice of transmission gear) causes the engine to be very sluggish so the rider rolls on more throttle, dumping a lot of fuel into the cylinders that can't be burned so a lot of that turns to carbon. Eventually the carbon sticking to pistons and valves develops little feathery edges which become hot spots. When the throttle is opened, combustion chamber pressures go up, heat goes up (especially in summer) and those hot spots try to ignite the fuel/air mixture before the spark plug does. The "knock" or "ping" or 'collection of marbles' rattle that the rider hears is a series of colliding flame fronts that are radically changing the ignition timing at best actually trying to force the piston backward if the mixture is ignited soon enough at worst.
Pre-ignition not only causes power loss that the rider can feel but it's also hammering the piston rings. Eventually it can hammer them so hard they break and then you have some very serious problems. In extreme situations a hole can even be punched in the top of a piston.
so get your ignition coil checked and serviced.
this will help.
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Posted on May 24, 2009
Step 1 - Engine Making a Tapping, Clicking or Rattling Noise (lower and upper engine noise) - Check the engine oil level, your engine depends on clean engine oil to lubricate the internal moving parts, if the engine oil level is low or the oil is dirty it can cause internal engine parts to malfunction. For example: a valve lifter is responsible for holding valve train clearance to a minimum, if the oil level is low or dirty it can cause the lifter to malfunction which will allow excess valve train clearance creating engine tapping or clicking noise. In extreme cases or when your engine has run out or close to out it can cause one of the many bearing surfaces to fail causing permanent engine damage and noise until repairs have been made. If this condition is left unattended the engine will suffer permanent damage and fail. If your engine is making a noise change the engine oil and filter with the manufacturers recommended weight (viscosity) oil first, if that does not make a difference engine repair work is needed.
Step 2 - Engine making a Squeaking, Squealing, Chirping or Rattling Sound (front engine noise) - To check for a squeaking noise that could be generated by the engine accessories, accessory mounts, drive belts or drive pulleys. When an accessory, accessory bracket, belt or drive pulley fails it can make a rattling, squeaking or tapping noise. These sounds are centrally located near the front of the engine. With the engine off, check the tension of the belt/belts, it should be at medium tension a loose or worn belt can make a loud squealing or chirping noise, check the belt tensioner and the size of the belt to make sure the right belt is installed. To isolate the origin of the noise, remove the main drive belt and start the engine. If the sounds disappears an accessory, accessory bracket, belt or pulley has failed. (Ford Cars and Trucks reference to step 6 - all other cars reference step 7 and 8) With a flashlight inspect the brackets and pulleys that connect the alternator, air conditioner compressor, power steering pump, and air pump if equipped to the engine. Look for signs of rust, this indicates broken or loose metal parts rubbing together which can generate squeaks and ticking noises. Replace the failed bracket or pulley as needed and recheck. If the bracket is ok rotate each accessory by hand to check for hard spots or seized bearings in the accessory and replace as needed.
Step 3 - Engine making a Rattling, Knocking or Tapping Sound (upper engine noise) - If you hear a lighter tapping noise from the upper half of the engine, shut the engine off and remove the valve covers. A camshaft is commonly used to operate poppet valves in a piston engine. A cylindrical rod is situated in the cylinder block or cylinder head that has oblong lobes or cams which push open the intake and exhaust valves. This force is applied on the valve directly or through an intermediate mechanism such as a rocker arm, lifter (cam follower) and push rods that are used to press against the valve for movement. Each valve utilizes a spring that will return the valve to its original position (closed) after the force is removed. If a valve spring has broken or a cam lobe is worn down it will cause the engine to create a tapping or clicking sound. To test for this condition, remove the ignition coil connector, ignition system or fuel pump fuse to disable power to the ignition or fuel system. Remove the valve covers to gain access to visually inspect the valve train. Have a helper crank the engine over while you watch the rocker arms or cam lobes, make sure they are all going up and down the same amount, if one or more lobes are traveling less than the others you might have a flattened cam lob and the camshaft needs to be replaced or a hydraulic lifter/follower (where applicable) that has collapsed and will need to be replaced. Also inspect the condition of the valve springs, use a flashlight and small mirror to aid in the inspection if needed. If a broken valve spring is discovered it will need to be replaced to correct the problem. And the final check, look at the height of the valve springs and retainers when in the closed position (pressure off) they should be exactly the same height. If one valve is higher or lower something is wrong with the cylinder head, valve or valve seat and needs to be repaired.
Step 4 - Engine making a Rattling, Knocking or Tapping Sound (lower engine noise) - If a heavier noise seems to be generated from the lower half of the engine the problem can be more serious and disassembly maybe required. But, sometimes a lower engine noise could be generated due to excessive carbon (carbon is a natural by-product of the combustion process) build up on top of the piston. This noise is created when carbon is compressed between the piston and the cylinder head. If you elect to perform a de-carbon procedure start and run the engine until warm, have a helper hold the engine at about 1500 RPM. As the engine is running poor a small amount of water down the throttle body, about a cup, you are creating a steam cleaning effect to break up the carbon that will exit the engine. Don't worry if steam is generated from the exhaust during the treatment, this is normal. If noise is gone after the treatment the carbon has been removed, if the engine noise is still there lower engine disassembly is required.
Posted on May 24, 2009
Check that the noise is not coming from any electronic part, as for example a shorted horn or a blown capacitor on any electronic circuit.
Posted on May 24, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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