Starts O.K. Lacks pulling power. Will not rev to full power.

find a real shop, an ASE rated shop and mech.
and bingo. real help, not guessing.
why not stated how the car drives, and forget the tacho.
you have lost power, from the engine, that is the #1 worry here
no year stated either. wow, are you kidding?

key on, CEL lamp glows?
start engine, it goes out, id bet not...
if CEL is stuck on, then scan it, or if older MR2 the jumper wire winkly blinky bs. we read out the flash codes.


lost engine power?
engine stalls?
engine misfires.
engine lacks power, on hills.
engine lacks power wide open throttle?
engine shakes.?
engine bogs
Fuel mileage poor.
others, ?

the tacho if still good, will show wrong if spark is BAD
the tacho uses the spark feed back signal.

no year, no joy. sorry

To test fuel flow, have a 2nd person stand over air filter (air filter housing open) with a can of starting fluid in one hand. Don't give any throttle, then 2nd person gives 1-second squirt into air filter while you're turning starter motor (no throttle). When engine catches, immediately give one third to one half throttle. Just before it dies, 2nd person should give another short squirt of starting fluid to keep engine from dying. If throttle won't keep engine running and only starting fluid keeps it running, then yes, no fuel is going through fuel lines. Either its a fuel pump issue or maybe there's restriction because of clogged dirty fuel filter. If it starts but runs rough and has black exhaust smoke, then its clogged or dirty fuel injectors.

I would try cleaning the throttle valve body and also the automatic idle speed control valve mounted to the throttle body, this is a common symptom of a dirty throttle valve and idle speed control valve. Use a product called "CRC" Throttle valve cleaner, run the engine and spray it into the air intake of the engine with the supply hose removed, hold the throttle up while you do this as it will try to stall, use up about half the can and then shut it down and disconnect the battery NEGATIVE cable for 5 min's to reset the system learned strategy, drive it for a few days and see if this corrects the problem.

Hi,
Sounds like a tune up is in order.
You can mask the problem by changing the fuel filter and spark plugs.
Also there is a small adjustment screw at the throttle linkage. Open the hood and stand close to the battery. Have someone rev the engine and look for the circle or half circle looking spring like mechanism.This is your throttle. Take a small screwdriver or other wrench [ some have different adjustment screws] and simply turn the screw you will see as the adjuster in about 1.4 turn until you are happy with the idle.

full power is only achieved when the engine is fully warm(operating temp).so if you accelerate more than, say, a third of the gas pedal,the car will feel sluggish.
this is more apparent when first starting the car in the morning in winter.almost like the car is going to stall.
most wear in the engine is leaving it to idle when cold you should always drive the car straight away from cold.then when hot turn on the a/c if required....

Wondering if you tested the throttle position sensor and checked that all the fuses in the vehicle are good. You need to have the computer codes cleared to eliminate false codes you may have set while working on it, then go through a couple of drive cycles (about forty miles) of use, then have the codes read. I'm not an expert on your exact system but common to all is that all sensors work with each other and the computer needs a good signal from each of them in its "decision making" Mass air flow sensor and temp sensor included. MAF can be cleaned with carb cleaner and a Q tip, carefully wiping off the two wires that stretch across the inside.I often recommend either haynes or chilton as a reference but in electrical diagnosis chilton is far better...If you are doing the work yourself get one and follow the test procedures in there.
In the end, the manual is more valuable and cheaper than replacing parts 'till the problem goes away. When working with electrical, I often make notes on what I found during testing.. sometimes something that seems meaningless ties in with another item later on.
No reliable shop can make a diagnosis without the benefit of hands on testing. You shouldn't either.

hay man thanks for the help with the sonoma hmm seems u got a lil problem, did you buy the car that way? sounds like some kind of rev limiter going out of wack but also mabey possibly throttle pos sensor but then i would think you would have check eng light, also spray some water at night time on ur spark plug wires(to see if there arking) even if they look ok they may be bad at the boots only arking when your reving it, sum lady is trying to sue me for 500 cuz i was doing a wheel bearing on an 03 suzuki and i cracked control arm bolt in half had no inspection hole i dont like suzuki cars but i love there bikes thanks again man

your torque convrtoer is shot. it is the at the front of the tranny to transfer motion from fly wheel ( engine side) to the trans. its a fairly cheap and easy fix.

petrol problem,filter or in tank filter ,or float shut off valve on carb ,petrol turn off switch .

Same problem for me. The car would idle at about 2500 when started from cold and about 3 miles on would not idle at all, resulting in the revs dropping off when changing gear or stopping. Also rather jerky in top gear unless thrashed - numerous trips to the garage for air idle valve, injectors etc. but still a problem! Have just found out that GVs are a bit prone to carbon build up in the throttle body - mine was almost blocked - it now feels like a different car.