When pressing the start button the engine turns to TDC where is stalls/slows then rotates to the next TDC and does the sam. Brand new starter motor/battery fitted -.3V drop on the cables to the motor - take out 1 plug and it spins and fires up - valves clearances done any ideas the sun is shinning out side and Im without the bike!!!!
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Re: bike wont start
What do you mean "take out 1 plug"? Spark plug's plug? Spark plugs are renewed? You should also check the gears/sprockets that connects the starting motor with the crankshaft if all of them can spin freely around their pin.
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I need some clarification. Did you replace the belt because it broke? If so you may need to replace the head. The problem is if the belt breaks when your moving it usually damages the head and thus needs to be replaced.
The cams make 2 complete rotations for every 1 rotation of the crank so you could be out of time by 180 degrees.With the valve cover off turn the engine over by hand. As #1 piston comes up on TDC the intake valves should be open and starting to close. As you go past TDC the exhaust valves should start to open. If this is not what is happening in this order then your timing is off. Your engine should be at TDC when the timing marks are lined up with the marker on the engine. Hope this helps.
With the tappet cover off, rotate the engine in the normal direction of rotation until you see #4 cylinder valves rock - open/close in succession. This will be TDC on #1 - set the valve clearances. Turn the engine until your see #2 valves rock, set #5 valves, turn the engine till #6 valves rock, set # 3 valves, turn the engine until #3 valves rock, set # 6 valves, turn engine till #5 valves rock, set # 2 valves, turn engine till #1 valves rock, set # 4 valves. Once you have located #1 TDC (the second mark in the pulley should be lined up with the cover mark), it is only 60 deg. to get to the next cylinder to set. If you accidentally go past the setting point, go back and approach the setting point again in the direction of engine rotation. When you come to setting # 6 the TDC marks should be aligned again.
Check compressions, sounds like you have bent a valve(s).
If compression is same on all cylinders, may be electrics issue.
If compressions are low on 1 or all cylinders then vlave timing needs checking.
Simply remove tank / spark plugs / viewing screw for flywheel timing and rotate crank till TDC marks line up. Insert thin long screw driver into the no1 plug hole and turn engine really slowly with wrench.
The screw driver should have been at TDC and started to go down / up depending on which way you turned crank. If screw driver is at the TDC, valve timing is OK.
Check that the clutch is in, kick stand up, and neutral light ablaze. Then try your start button. When you had it running and hit the button, the starter engaged at a slower speed then the bike engine was turning, which led to the stall. The stall means your starter works. If the starter works when the engine is running then it is wiring. Check your kick stand wiring along with the clutch wires which plug in on the handlle bar or where the clutch cable enters the engine.
First item you need to go after is the slow turning. have the battery charged and load tested. Once that the battery is verified as fully charged and good, put a volt meter between the two posts and crank the engine. voltage should not drop below 9.5V If it does, It is likely that your starter is worn out. If your distributor has a bolt that goes through an ear that is part of the distributor, you cannot adjust the timing. It is pre-set and controlled by the computer. Make sure you have the firing order correct and that you are indexing from the correct position on the cap.(turn the engine to tdc on the timing scale and rotor should either be pointing directly 180 degrees away from #1 or directly at it. Make sure you are getting spark and fuel when engine is cranking and it should start.
since have change new battery, will the motor turn over? if the engine turn over or crank, check if you have sparks, by pulling the plug out and ground it to the metal to the bike and turn the motor over and see if you getting spark, double check if you are getting fuel, two items to make the engine run, sparks and fuel. if the stater dont make any sound when you press the start button it may be faulty serenoid to the starter, check starter and starter switch. you can get a light tester and test positve and negative contact to your serenoid/starter by hold or pressing start button to see if you get power to the starter. hope that help some
If the bike runs then Top Dead Center (TDC) is not an issue. But to check piston stroke position, Remove the valve cap cover on the intake of the front cylinder. Remove both the spark plugs. Rotate the crank shaft untill the rocker arm starts to move. The piston is now starting down on the intake stroke. Rotate the crank further and the rocker arm moves in the opposite direction. The piston is now going upward on the compression stroke. Look at the marks on the flywheel. Rotate the crank untill the TDC mark lines up with the timing index mark. The front piston is now at TDC.
If your model has carbs then the backfire fix requires you to syncronize and balance the carbs. SYNCHRONIZE THE CARBS Remove the air filter and rubber fittings to allow you to see into the throat of both carbs. You may need a mirror to see inside. You need to be able to see the slides go up and down when you twist the throttle. Now turn the fitting where the cable goes into each carb such that there is just a bit of slack in the cable, 1/16" is plenty. Lock ONE of the cable adjusters down tight. All further adjustments will be made on the other carb. With the motor turned off twist the throttle very slowly while looking at the slides. Both slides need to begin lifting at the exact same moment. If the slides don't raise at the exact same time then slowly twist the throttle until the locked adjuster slide just barely starts to move. Hold the throttle still and turn the adjuster on the other carb so that the slide on that carb just barely starts to move also. Now recheck the slide movement timing. Do this process until the slides on both carbs begin to raise at the EXACT same moment. Lock down the loose adjuster and re-check the slides. BALANCE THE CARBS Turn the throttle screw on the LEFT carb one half turn inward. Now start the engine and get it warmed up. With the engine running, remove the RIGHT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the left carb to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place. Now turn the throttle screw on the RIGHT carb one half turn inward. Restart and rev the engine. Next, remove theLEFT spark plug wire. Adjust the idle speed on the right carb to the point where the engine just can't quite stay running and dies. Now put the loose spark plug wire back into place. Turn the idle screw on each carb EXACTLY ONE QUARTER turn outward and restart the engine. The engine will be probably be idling very fast. Adjust both the idle screws equally from this point to get to the desired idle speed. Congratulations, you have just balanced and synchronized your carbs. Please rate this solution. Thanks sgtswampdonk!
The fuel system should just run directly to the carbs through filters. The starter though, sounds as though the cannot turn the engine over. And if it was push started and didn't run.....then I would guess there are internal engine issues. That is just a worst case prognosis. There are a few options otherwise. Try a new starter. Make sure the battery is fully charged. If that bike uses a coil system then the battery has to have a charge in order for the coils to keep the bike running.