Owners manual I am looking for an original owners and service manual for the Ducati 851 Tricolore 1988

remove tank and you should see if its held in by bolts or a retaining lock ring which you rotate to loosen ! more info if my suggestions no help ! P...

Yes the backfire is an indication of being lean. Have you checked the valves lately? May be a sign of tight valves although that often cause a rough idle as well. Have you modified the filter system or added a tuned exhaust? Any changes like that can and will cause a change in carburation in which case you may need to fatten up the mid range jetting.

A good patch job (removing the tire and repairing with a patch on the inside of it) I feel is much better than a plug IMHO I used to do allot of automotive tire repairs with patches and can't remember if any actually came apart or became defective. The plug may have a tendency to loosen and leak. On the other hand allot of people would replace the tire just to have peace of mind with regards to motorcycle tires. 1500 miles is close enough to justify replacement. ,,

In our perennial quest for HP and torque the topic of cam timing seems to be missing from the threads thus far posted. Yet cam timing can have a significant effect on overall engine performance and the mix between HP and torque. Since the HM has only a single cam per cylinder there isn’t anything we can due to vary the overlap for any given cam, but there is certainly some range of adjustability on how the overall cam timing is set by cylinder. With the stock cams, the timing specs for both cylinders are as follows at 1 mm valve clearance Intake Opening 15° B.T.D.C. Closing 65° A.B.D.C. Exhaust Opening 62° B.B.D.C. Closing 19° A.T.D.C. (Anyone have the specs of for the DP cams?) Certainly degreeing in the cams to spec is a good starting point, but my real question is how might HP and torque be impacted by advancing or retarding cam timing? There’s lots of information on how to degree a cam and people have been doing so since the old flat-head hot rod days, but information on how changing cam timing in and by itself affects overall performance and/or the mix between HP and torque (perhaps held as closely guarded trade secrets by the cam manufacturers +/or tuners).,,,

ZERO air pressure on these forks those air valves are to get rid of any built up pressure in the tubes. I also have a 1990 851 love it! What weight of oil are you running and how much are you putting in?,,

Yes All motorcycle chains currently being manufactured use Buna-N (Nitrile) rubber for their o-rings and x-rings and all these manufacturers recommend kerosene as a cleaner. Here's the formulation of WD-40: 80% Stoddard Solvent (that is similar to kerosene) 20% light lubricating oil and a bit of fragrance. Here's the compatibility of Stoddard Solvent with rubbers and plastics: Good Compatibility (OK for both static and dynamic seals) Buna-N (Nitrile) Chemraz Epichlorohydrin Fluorocarbon Fluorosilicone Kalrez Nitrile, hydrogenated Polyacrylate Teflon, virgin Mixed Compatibility (OK for static seals, but not for dynamic seals) Neoprene Vamac Fair Compatibility (OK for some static seals) Polysulfide Polyurethane, millable Poor Compatibility Butyl Ethylene-Propylene Hypalon Natural rubber Silicone Styrene Butadiene Consequently, WD-40 is safe and effective as a chain cleaner and corrosion inhibitor. Link: http://www.efunda.com/designstandard...dard%20Solvent If you clean with a soft brush and WD-40, and plan to follow-up with a chain lube, you can reduce chain lube sling-off if you first remove the oil residue that WD-40 leaves. This residue seems to prevent some chain lube formulations from sticking well to the chain.,,,