Question about 2000 Honda NSR 125

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New piston, barrell and gaskets. can not bleed the cooling system

The bike rides nice but gets very hot at the top and cold at the bottom. tried flushing the system. still no joy. any ideas? cheers mark

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  • Honda Master
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Hope you have set the valve clearance to the specs!

Posted on May 22, 2009

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I have done the headgasket on my rover 75 with new piston it keeps over heating coolant comes out of header tank but my heater remains cold and pipes going in and out


Check if u have a heater full blast if u get a hot air comes out to it.....if not then water is not properly circulated it doesnt cool the engine if thats ok then check the pump and thermostat and try ti feel the return line of the coolant to the radiator if its gets hot or warm to touch (located on top part of the radiator) means if its just warm water is not circulatibg properly I dont have experience on 75 rover im just telling u how the coolant cools the engine or how does the system flows and its applicable to all cars that has water cooled engine there one exception the air cooled volkswagen hope this might help u out have patient.....lastly did u flush the system after u installed the head gasket? U have something drop in tge engine while changing the head gasket and its causing blockage just a reminder

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Most likely you have air trapped in your engine, particularly in the heater loop. You need to properly bleed the air out of your radiator cooling system. The hot and cold blasts of air coming from first hot water followed by air.
Read up on how to bleed air out of your radiator system. Some systems are very difficult to bleed.
If after doing a good bleed of the radiator system the problem returns, you may have a bad head gasket or other leak in your cooling system which is injecting air into the cooling system (radiator/water cooling system).

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Hi, Whwarrenhugh Triumph's are pretty tough and just because it landed upside down is no reason to pull the top end. Try bleeding the cooling system of air that traveled to places it was not welcomed while the bike was on it's back, then retrieve the generated fault code and go from there.
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Bleeding the cooling system
How to find fault codes on triumph motorcycle
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Triumph Speed 4 TT600 2000 2006 Factory Service Manual PDF Download... $10 cheap
Hermys Triumph Motorcycle Parts Triumph Speed Four Genuine Motorcycle...
http://mybikemanuals.com/triumph

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Suzuki RM 125 water is mixing with the gearbox oil how do I fix it, or what is the cause. The water is leaking from the cooling system and turning the oil milky. I have just changed the oil and filled up...


Did you do the reassembly yourself? If not, take it back to whoever did because the reassembly was done incorrectly. Oil and water mixing can only happen at the top or bottom ends of the barrel. Either the head gasket is not seated properly or the barrel to casing seals are not properly installed

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Remove exhaust pipe & shine a light up into barrel / piston to inspect !!

Ride safe
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Please mark this as very helpful (if it has been!!) - it helps my ratings

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this is caused by a leaking cylinder head gasket or air in the sytem, if u did not bleed the cooling system follow this procedure, it is generic for all cars.
The generic method of bleeding air from the cooling system is to use a floor jack and raise the front of the car as high as poss, then fill the coolant recovery tank full and run the engine until it just starts to overheat, high end of normal zone on gauge, then shut the engine down and run cold water over the radiator core, this will self bleed the system and the coolant will be pulled from the recovery tank, repeat as necessary, never let the recovery tank run dry or more air will be pulled into the cooling systeml , if it still overheats then you need to have the head gaskets checked with a gas analyzer for hydrocarbons present in the radiator or recovery tank

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My BMW 318i has had a new expansion tank fitted after overheating and splitting.After bleeding the cooling system it seems as though the bottom hose is not getting hot any suggestions would be welcome


NORMALY THE HOT FLOW ENTERS THE TOP HOSE AND COOLER WATER LEAVE THE BOTTOM HOSE BACK TO THE BLOCK, SO IF THE TOP HOSE GETS WARM THEN THE RAD IS BLOCKED , IF NIETHER GETS WARM/HOT THEN THERMOSTAT NOT WORKING, OR YOU HAVE BLOCKAGE ELSE WHERE, SO REMOVE BOTH HOSES FLUSH RAD WITH HOSE PIPE, (WHEN ENGINE IS COLD) SEE IF WATER FLOWS OUT AT SAME SPEED AS U R FILLING IT, IF NOT ITS BLOCKED, 2ND REMOVE THERMOSTAT AND FLUSH ENGINE OUT, U CAN BUY RAD FLUSH/CLEANER AND TRY THAT,

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1 Answer

My bike stopped running and was leaking coolant.


A coolant leak from the bottom of the cylinder indicates a blown base gasket. easy fix if you have a manual and some mechanical knowledge.
If you lost all you coolant, you may have also seized the piston.

you will require a top end gasket set, and most-likely a piston kit (Now is probably a good time to freshen that up anyway.)

If the engine was running good you probably did not get any coolant in your engine which is good.
-here is an idea of what is involved

dissasembly
(label everything and keep it nice and clean)

1) clean your bike good. You do not want dirt in the engine.
2) remove seat, fuel tank, rear subframe, and the pipe. This should give you easy access to everything.
3)drain whats left of your coolant into a bucket, the drain is usually one of the lower bolt holes on your impeller cover . A copper washer might give it away.
4) remove the carb from the boot going into your engine. the carb can stay connected hanging out of the way on its cables.
5) remove the cylinder head
6) remove any exhaust linkage covers if so equipped, and the screw holding the linkage. there may be a hole that will line up with a slot in the arm/clip. Use an appropriately sized drillbit to stop the thing from turning on you. Be careful, these are fragile (on Yamaha's anyway)
7)remove the 4 nuts holding the cylinder on. you should now be able to slide the cylinder off of the piston.

Inspection
& cleaning


Inspect the piston for any rough metal, scrapes or gouges. same with the cylinder. if damaged it will need to be replaced. Iron sleeved cylinders can be bored out 1 size and honed, nikasil can be cleaned of minor aluminum deposits with muriatic acid (don't get this on your skin) or will need to be replaced as a unit. Make sure there is no coolant inside the engine case. Crank should turn over smoothly with the bike in neutral.


Clean the old gasket off of the cases where the new base gasket will go. A plastic putty knife does wonders. make sure you get it all off, DO NOT use metal on the sealing surfaces. gasket remover can be used, but don't get any into the engine, and avoid using it where the bottom case halves are joined. Then stuff a rag in the case to keep it clean in the meantime.

Repeat the process for the cylinder, bottom and top if necessary.

Assembly
Check with your dealer for torque specs.
The piston kit should have instructions. Remove 1 circlip (don't lose it in the engine- (rag is in there right?). Slide the wrist pin out (long socket+ light tapping on it from the opposite side if you don't have a puller). CAUTION: I do not know if the wrist pin bearing is caged or not (check the new one when you get it) if it is not a caged bearing all the little roller pins will fall everywhere if you are not carefull. There is like 25 of them!
Now remove the piston, leaving just the rod. Prep the new piston (gap and install rings...line up gap with ring keeper pin...also, pay attention to orientation...some have an angle on the upper side of the ring. Install one of the circlips, rotate it so the gap does not line up with the hole, gap should be up or down not sideways. Install the wristpin bearing in the rod, slip on piston (usually arrow points to exhaust port...check instructions). now lube up the wristpin bearing and pin, slide pin through, and install the 2nd circlip.
Remove the rag, add a capfull or two of 2stroke into the bottom at this point. use a little break cleaner on a rag to make the gasket surface is clean.Throw down the new gasket. Line up ring in groves, Squeeze with one hand, and slide the cylinder down the piston. Once partway up, rotate the crank so the cylinder lines up with the studs. tighten nuts appropriately. Rotate it slow by the kickstart with the kilswitch held in the off position. Everything should be smooth. With the piston at the bottom throw a few capsfulls of oil in it to lubricate it as you rotate it through slowly. now clean the top, install topend gaskets and the nuts. Reassemble the bike in reverse order, make sure the carb is on tight, and don't forget to ADD COOLANT at proper ratio. Break in mix is gonna be 15:1 or 20:1 somwhere in there, for the first few hours riding anyway. Vary the throttle lots don't be afraid to run it though, just don't hold it WFO for more than a few seconds till everything gets happy. also, Especially when using FORGED pistons. Make sure the first time you start it, only let it idle, don't ride it. Let is get all the way up to temp, then let it cool completely. Do this heat cycle twice.
then continue normal break in.

I don't think I left anything out. Good luck.

May 17, 2009 | Suzuki RM 250 Motorcycles

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