Question about 2005 Honda VTX 1300 R

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Ran good...then it started flooding

I jetted if with a 195 stock air box.....needle on the 4 the notch.....ran good but then it started flooding

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Bring it up one notch and see what happens.

Posted on May 26, 2009

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Replaced 18 point stator with stock 12 point, ran fine for cpl weeks then bogged out while riding. Gets gas and has spark???


Hi Darren, and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle speed improperly adjusted.
2. Inlet system air leak.
3. Damaged or restricted fuel tank venting system.
4. Dirty or damaged air cleaner element.
5. Accelerator pump inoperative.
6. Vacuum piston assembly malfunction.
7. Enrichner valve not seated or leaking.
8. Restricted fuel supply tract.
9. Plugged bowl vent.
10. Loose or plugged fuel and air jets or passages.
11. Improper fuel level.
12. Worn or damaged needle or needle jet.
13. Loose or plugged main jets or passages.
Good luck and have a nice day.

Sep 11, 2015 | GAS Motorcycles

1 Answer

Yamaha carb settings


Hi, Anonymous tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry. Here is how and where you compensate trouble:
1. Closed to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues. For more information about your issue please click on the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
XJ650 carb tuning with the dreaded pods
Carburetor Sync Yamaha 650 Maxim 1981
Yamaha XJ750 Owners Workshop Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://www.carlsalter.com/pdfs/Yamaha_XJ600SK_Owners_Manual.pdf

Jun 29, 2014 | 1982 Yamaha XJ 650

1 Answer

Shadow 1100 sabre carb setting on cobra exhaust


Hi, Hitmagedz if you have changed your fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" your not getting enough fuel.
1. Closed to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Honda Shadow 1100 Carburetor Jetting PegMonkey
Carburator Theory and Tuning
Honda shadow vt1100 Owners Workshop Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda VT1100C2 Owner Manual Page 3

Apr 10, 2012 | 2001 Honda VT 1100 C2 Shadow Sabre

1 Answer

I have a 2004 VTX 1300 C. When I bought it, it had Bub Jughugger exhaust installed on it. When I pulled the plugs, I noticed they were sooty, telling me it's a rich condition. I ordered and installed a...


Yes the air fuel mixture screw should be open at least 3 full turns
Especially if you use the big jet and lowered the needle clip position to the fouth from the top groove as instructed with the clip

i've installed several jet kits, and usually its 2 or 2 1/2 or 3 turns out on the air/fuel mixture screw.
Your not missing anything.

Best Regards
Big Al

Jul 25, 2011 | 2004 Honda VTX 1300

1 Answer

I have a 1997 YZ250, 2 stroke. it ran well for a fair while. took air cleanerout, cleaned and re-oiled it. all back together and it won't start! continually flooding and fouling plug. even tried tow...


Do you have a 2 piece air filter? Did you oil only the inner filter? If you also oiled the outer filter then you are causing a rich condition in your mixture which is why you're fouling plugs. Remove the outer filter and spray it with filter oil remover and let it dry. Then reinstall and try again. If you are still too rich, then raise the clip on your main jet needle. This will lower the needle a notch from its current position, giving less fuel. Your air/fuel ratio should be ever so slightly rich when it's correct. Do a web search for images "spark plug condition" there are plenty of color charts available to view. Look for the tan colored plug. That's what you're shooting for.

Nov 29, 2010 | Yamaha YZ 250 Motorcycles

1 Answer

Hi,just got a dynojet stage 1/3 kit for my 1980 honda cb650, it's on standard air box, but 4 into 1 exhaust, I take it I should use the stage one kit. Also I have no instructions can you help...


Intended for motorcycles with a stock engine using the stock airbox, air filter and stock pipe. Stage 1 kits are fully adjustable to allow the use of a well designed aftermarket pipes and stock replacement air filters like K&N. Stage 1 kits are designed to improve throttle response and driveability and in most cases power increases of approximately 5% throughout the entire power range can be achieved.


STAGE ONE INSTRUCTIONS
1. Remove the vacuum slide from the carbs. Remove the stock needles & spacers, noting the order of
assembly. Locate the slide lift holes (Fig. A), with the slide drill DD# 14 supplied, enlarge your slide lift
holes. The picture may not show your slide exactly, enlarge your slide lift hole or holes depending on your
model. Do not drill any new lift holes. Do not drill the needle hole.
2. Install Dynojet needles on groove #4, using all stock spacers. Install the Dynojet washers (2 per
needle) above the E-clip.
3. Remove the stock main jets and replace with the Dynojet main jets provided. If you are running with
stock exhaust, use the DJ110 main jets. With an aftermarket header or slip-on with high flowing baffles,
use the DJ116 main jets. Be sure that the jets you are changing are the main jets.
4. Locate the fuel mixture plug (Fig. B), if you see a screw head, proceed to adjusting procedure. With the
DD #5/32 drill bit provided, carefully drill thru the plugs. Note: the mixture screw is directly underneath this
plug, be ready to pull back on the drill the instant you break thru. Use screw provided to secure and
remove the plug. Carefully turn mixture screws clockwise until they seat, turn out 3 turns.


For further info on this, visit: http://www.dynojet.com/jetkits/motorcycle/honda.aspx

You can find the manual for the model you are searching for. Follow the 1st column "CC" to find 650cc models and you can find your specific model after that.

Thanks for asking.
Regards,
Arvind S Iyer

Oct 15, 2010 | Dynojet Cycling

1 Answer

Wont run floods out


is the float needle stuck in the seat or perhaps the float pinholed

Apr 22, 2010 | kawasaki Ninja 250R Motorcycles

2 Answers

My XR 600


Pull the slide out of the carb and then move the clip on the jet needle down one notch. Two may be needed but start with one.

Jun 30, 2009 | 1985 Honda XR 600 R

1 Answer

Hard starting;has stock jets.


Install a new stock spark plug after getting the compression checked and the valve clearances checked. Assuming good compression, use the choke when cold starting but don't flood the engine. Clean the air filter? If, when running, the bike dies when the throttle is turned, remove the jet needle from the throat of the carb and move the clip on the needle down one, possibly two, notches. This will richen the low end mix.

Jun 01, 2009 | 1995 Honda XR 250 R

1 Answer

2006 v star 1100. 1500 miles. this bike had new


The excess fuel is caused by the float levels being out of adjustment. Fix the floats and the dead spot may disappear. If not, pull the slides and then move the jet needle clip down one notch. With due respect, I would put the bike carbs back to stock. :)

May 04, 2009 | 2006 Yamaha V Star Classic

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