Question about Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster Motorcycles

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1984 HARLEY XLX 1000 FRONT CYLINDER DOES NOT FIRE ,HAS COMPRESSION ,FUEL AND SPARK

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 40,632 Answers

Hi Anonymous, if you have all that then your cam timing is off or your timing sensor is faulty. Good luck

Posted on May 15, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

rselvy
  • 83 Answers

SOURCE: Rear cylinder not firing

The first thing I would do is replace the spark plugs again. You can foul a plug and it will cause you more problems than you can ever imagine. I see you have done all the logical things that I would recommend but I did not see you have replaced the plugs after the 200 miles. You would be surprised at how many times a $2.00 part can cause fits beyond belief.

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: NO SPARK TO REAR CYLINDER

Troy, the problem is probably not a lack of spark. More likely it is a lack of fuel in that rear CARB. Do what is shown and you will probably be back on the road in a few hours.

Drain the carburetors. There should be a screw on the lower side of each CARB float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Any water in the gas? Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ). Install new stock NGK spark plugs. Remove the carburetors from the engine.

FOR EACH CARB > Remove the float bowl and clean the entire
CARB with a spray CARB cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the CARB. Remove the two screws on the outside throat of the CARB and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the
CARB back together, clean the air filter and install the CARB. Balance and sync the carbs.

This process should get you back on the road.


Please rate this solution. Thanks!

Posted on Mar 30, 2009

  • 72 Answers

SOURCE: 1985 harley 1000 no compression in front head

remove the push rod tubee on the front jug.see if the pushrods are moving up and down.see if they are loose.if loose adjust try again.
your valves may be stuck open if not stuck open pour 1 once of mystery oil in head try comp test again.[this is to check the rings}if still no comp you have a hole in your piston or blown head gasket

Posted on Aug 07, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: Need to adjust the idle on one cylinder on harley

Ok, first off, this ain't no Yamaha you're messing with. It's a completely different motorcycle in most every way. Not saying it's better or worse than the *** bike but it's different.

It has two cables, this is correct, but only one carb. One cable is the throttle cable and the other is the idle cable. The idle cable pulls the carb shut in the event the throttle plate spring breaks on the carb. It's a safety thing and it was the same way on your Yamaha.

Now, if the front cylinder is not running at idle, I would suspect a vacuum leak somewhere. There are several places where you could have a vacuum leak. Of course, the intake manifold seals could be leaking, the intake carburetor seal could be leaking, or the VOES/ petcock line could be causing a problem. Unless you have taken your air cleaner off for some reason, I'm going to assume that the problem is in the petcock.

Your bike has one of the vacuum operated petcocks in the tank unless it's been changed already. Vacuum from the engine opens the petcock allowing fuel to the carb when the engine is running but when the engine stops, the vacuum disappears and the petcock closes. Supposedly. This is the worst piece of junk Harley ever put on their motorcycles. They do two things, they quit working and won't let fuel into the tank or they cause a small vacuum leak that will cause the bike not to idle properly. I suspect you have the latter case.

Drain your fuel tank by loosening the petcock and allowing the gas to run out around it. Catch the fuel with a large funnel and an empty fuel can large enough to hold the fuel in your tank. Once empty, disconnect the two hoses and remove the petcock. On the backside of the petcock, there is a square plate. Remvove the four small screws and take the plate off. There will be a diaphragm, a spring, and needle under the plate. Remove the plate carefully so you can see how it goes back together. Hold the diphragm up to the light and gently stretch it while looking for holes. If you find a hole, you'll have to either buy a new diaphragm and repair your petcock or , better yet, replace the entire petcock with a manually operated one. A Pingle petcock is a very high quality valve and you'll like it but it is pricey. If you buy an OEM petcock, get one for a 1995 or earlier bike. You will no longer need the vacuum line and you can plug it with a small bolt or something to stop the vacuum leak.

This vacuum line comes off a nipple at the backside of the carb and it feeds vacuum to two things. It's a 3/16" hose that goes up to the VOES switch mounted on the frame under the tank. From there it "Y's" off to the smaller hose that goes to the backside of your petcock. Take your fuel tank off and inspect this hose. Look for cracks. If you go with the manual petcock, eliminate the small portion of the hose by replacing the hose that runs to the VOES with the single hose instead of the "Y'd" hose.

As for the idle speed of you engine, it should be set at about a thousand RPM. Look at the top of the carb. There is a screw near the top on the right side of the carb. That is the throttle stop screw. It controls the idle speed of the engine. Turn the screw clockwise to increase the idle speed.

Ok, try what I've written here. If it doesn't work, get back with me.

Good Luck.
Steve

Posted on Jul 21, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a 1984 Harley iron head sportster and I'm

itss your ignition module ..its toast the black box it cheaper to get the wwhole ignition kit on ebay about 160

Posted on May 02, 2012

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1984 HARLEY XLX 1000 FRONT CYLINDER DOES NOT FIRE HAS COMPRESSION ,FUEL AND SPARK


Hi anonymous, see previous last 2 questions and answers. Thank you

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2 CYLINDER FRONT CYLINDER DOES NOT FIRE , HAS COMPRESSION ,FUEL , SPARK


Hi Anonymous, and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty
2. Fuel supply valve turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded with gasoline as a result of over use of enrichner.
5. Fuel valve or filter clogged.
6. Vacuum hose to automatic fuel supply valve disconnected, leaking, or pinched.
7. Discharged battery, loose or broken battery connections.
8. Loose wire connection at coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, spark plug cable connections loose,
or cables connected to wrong cylinders.
10. Ignition timing incorrect due to faulty ignition coil, ignition module, or sensors " Manifold Absolute Pressure" "Camshaft Position Sensor" "Crank Position Sensor" "Brake Apply Sensor
11. Engine lubricant to heavy ( winter operation )
12. Sticking or damaged valves or push rod wrong length.
13. Primary cam sproket spline sheared or missing spacer.
14. Security alarm system not disarming.
For a primary suspect please visit the website below: Good luck
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I have a 1974 sportster XLH that I started about 15 years ago and shut off because front cylinder was sucking air around intake and heating the front pipe up. Put the bike on hold until months ago. Bike...


Hi Bill, when checking for spark the CKP needs to measure the compression bump in order to send the correct signal to the ICM/ECM so always check for spark with either a third plug grounded or lift the end of the plug boot 1/2 " off one of spark plugs that are in the head. and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty
2. Fuel supply valve turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded with gasoline as a result of over use of enrichner.
5. Fuel valve or filter clogged.
6. Vacuum hose to automatic fuel supply valve disconnected, leaking, or pinched.
7. Discharged battery, loose or broken battery connections.
8. Loose wire connection at coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, spark plug cable connections loose,
or cables connected to wrong cylinders.
10. Ignition timing incorrect due to faulty ignition coil, ignition module, or sensors " Manifold Absolute Pressure" "Camshaft Position Sensor" "Crank Position Sensor" "Brake Apply Sensor
11. Engine lubricant to heavy ( winter operation )
12. Sticking or damaged valves or push rod wrong length.
13. Primary cam sproket spline sheared or missing spacer.
14. Security alarm system not disarming.
For a primary suspect please visit the website below: Good luck
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