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2 CYLINDER FRONT CYLINDER DOES NOT FIRE , HAS COMPRESSION ,FUEL , SPARK

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 40,013 Answers

Hi Anonymous, and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty
2. Fuel supply valve turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded with gasoline as a result of over use of enrichner.
5. Fuel valve or filter clogged.
6. Vacuum hose to automatic fuel supply valve disconnected, leaking, or pinched.
7. Discharged battery, loose or broken battery connections.
8. Loose wire connection at coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, spark plug cable connections loose,
or cables connected to wrong cylinders.
10. Ignition timing incorrect due to faulty ignition coil, ignition module, or sensors " Manifold Absolute Pressure" "Camshaft Position Sensor" "Crank Position Sensor" "Brake Apply Sensor
11. Engine lubricant to heavy ( winter operation )
12. Sticking or damaged valves or push rod wrong length.
13. Primary cam sproket spline sheared or missing spacer.
14. Security alarm system not disarming.
For a primary suspect please visit the website below: Good luck
Big Twin Carb EFI DTC Intructions codes Harley Davidson Forums Harley...

Posted on May 15, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: NO SPARK TO REAR CYLINDER

Troy, the problem is probably not a lack of spark. More likely it is a lack of fuel in that rear CARB. Do what is shown and you will probably be back on the road in a few hours.

Drain the carburetors. There should be a screw on the lower side of each CARB float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Any water in the gas? Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ). Install new stock NGK spark plugs. Remove the carburetors from the engine.

FOR EACH CARB > Remove the float bowl and clean the entire
CARB with a spray CARB cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the CARB. Remove the two screws on the outside throat of the CARB and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the
CARB back together, clean the air filter and install the CARB. Balance and sync the carbs.

This process should get you back on the road.


Please rate this solution. Thanks!

Posted on Mar 30, 2009

  • 163 Answers

SOURCE: 1978 YAMAHA RD400E NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER BIKE RUNS ON

Hello,

Remove both sparkplugs from engine. Plug them back in the sparkplug cables and let them rest on the engine.
Make sure your battery is well charged.
Check for sparks while kick-starting...
Interchange the sparkplugs in the cables:
-Same plug give sparks: replace the spark plugs.
-Same side of engine sparks: interchange the low-voltage connector at the ignition coils.
Give it a try:
Same engine side sparks: Replace the defective ignition coil.
Other side of the engine sparks: Check the circuit harness for loose connectors, and/or Clean-replace the breaker points ( left side of the engine carter ).

Posted on Aug 29, 2009

Benimur
  • 6966 Answers

SOURCE: My 50cc 2 stroke engine won't start, it has fuel

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

A couple of ideas:

  • fuel to the carbs - as you posted checks good;
  • fuel inside the carbs - loosen the drain screw at the bottom/bowl. Check for quality / quantity of fuel;
  • fuel into the combustion chamber - check the plug (would be wet).
For a no start 2 stroke engine with your described condition, a possibility to consider is too much / unburned 2T oil in the lower combustion chamber; remove sparkplug, air dry (or use compressed air).

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Posted on Sep 09, 2009

  • 31 Answers

SOURCE: 1982 XJ 650 maxim cylinder 2 & 4 won't run

Are you saying that 2 & 4 got gas with external tank but not with gas tank? If so something else has happened ,if gas is getting to the carb it cannot by-pass 2 to get to 1. Take the tank back off ,connect to external, again. See what happens.

Posted on Sep 11, 2009

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 x1 lightning 118/250 runs on 1 cylinder

I have a 99 X1 #170/250 it does same thing when its cold. I put the buell race module still does it took it in and had motor turn apart and found nothing bike runs great when its warm you need to let it warm up it should start to fire

Posted on Mar 05, 2010

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Your front cylinder is not running. This could be due to spark or fuel, or lack of compression.
Check for spark first by inserting a good plug in the plug wire and holding it against the cylinder. If it shows bright spark, you may have a fueling or compression issue.
Check for compression, should be around 150psi. If you have spark and compression, you probably have a fueling issue.
Check the carb for the front cylinder for fuel level in the bowl. If the fuel level is correct you have another carb issue which will require removal and cleaning/servicing.

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It takes spark at the right time, fuel, and compression, to fire a cylinder.
So if you know for a fact the cylinder has spark, the other two options are fuel and compression.

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Won't start ; i have spark, fuel


It takes 3 things for an internal combustion engine to run... compression, spark, and fuel.
First perform a compression test. If its under 90psi the compression is too low and it would cost more to repair than to replace.
Sidenote: A unit that is extremely flooded will give a false low compression reading. Remove the spark plug, turn unit upside down so that spark plug hole is facing down and slowly pull the starter rope. If fuel drips out then the crankcase is flooded with fuel.
Next, be sure that your fuel is fresh and free of water. If the fuel is more than 20 days old it is stale.
Also, holding the spark plug against the head is not an accurate test for spark. A failed spark plug or weak module will fire when not under a load but will not fire when in the cylinder environment under compression. A spark tester is the best way to know for sure that you have a good strong spark.
Lastly, something you can do which requires no special tools is check the condition of the cylinder/ piston. Remove the spark plug then remove the muffler and look into the cylinder. You can pull the starter rope slowly to move the piston up and down. Observe the wall of the cylinder and the side of the piston. They should be smooth and shiny. A dull grey appearence indicates debris ingestion, grooves ( also called scoring) indicate metal to metal contact caused by a break down of the oil due to heat or lack of oil. The presence of scoring means that the unit is not cost effective to repair and should be replaced. Dull grey usually means low compression too.

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Number 1 cylinder has spark but not firing, I have gone through the carbs, and new plugs, I switched 1 and 2 plug wires and it did not help


Hummm, well to fire you need spark (at the correct time), compression, and fuel.
It sounds like you have spark, so do you have COMPRESSION? It needs to be similar to the other cylinders +/- 15% or so.

IF you have spark, and compression, try an external fuel source diagnostically, in the #1 cylinder. Spray some carb cleaner into that carb when unit is running.

Did you balance the carbs? Carb surgery often gets balance all out of spec.

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