Question about 2003 Yamaha YZF-R1
How to remove the sender unit from inside the petrol tank on a r1 2003?
Posted by Anonymous on
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How to remove the sender unit from inside the petrol tank on r1 2003...
OEM parts for Yamaha
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e
Posted on Dec 13, 2016
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Fuel tank parts
Don't get a new one!!! If you're anyway handy, drain the tank, slip it off the bike & turn it upside down. Scribe a mark on the body of the unit to the tank to ensure you get it lined up again rebuilding. Unscrew the 4 retaining screws holding the sender unit in place. The rubber seal can be used again but examine it first. Carefully remove the sender unit, it's crooked in parts so you need to twist it at strange angles to get it out. Once it's out you will see the float/metal rod attached to a black bakealite holder. There is a tiny star shaped washer holding it in place, very easy to lose. Prise off the washer. Keep it safe. Upon inspection of the bakealite holder(potentiometer) you will see the metal rod has elongated the hole and thus sends a wrong signal to the fuel gauge on the dash. To counter this, get yourself some plumbers tape, the very thin stuff, and wrap it round the metal bar where it goes through the potentiometer, the part that is most worn. The trick is to get the metal rod to sit evenly & square to send the correct signal to the gauge. You may have to add or deduct some tape but make sure the float/rod moves freely before you rebuild it. This sounds gimmicky but in essence it's really handy and you save £50 on a new sender unit. Before you refit the little washer, gently squeeze it between a flat pair of pliers to tighten the little gripper teeth, then refit it. Press it home with pointy nose pliers. To test it you can attach it to the multiplug on the bike and move it manually with your hand whilst watching the dash. You should have a working fuel gauge. Mines been repaired like this for 4.5 years and it's as accurate as it was before it went wonky. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
Take riders seat off, undo small bolt in front of take. Will now lift up on rear hinge. Remove long bolt from rear hinge, remove fuel pipes and lift off.
Posted on Aug 12, 2009
Best would be to remove all the fuel from the outlet (p e t c o c k) the pipe tht runs to the carburator from the tank.
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
Testimonial: "thanx for you most helpful solution, now I just need to locate the pipe"
Your friend is wrong. All that will do is make the engine smoke a bit until the oil is gone. Remove the tank and put a handful of large bolts and nuts in it. Add 1/4 tank of denatured alcohol then shake the tank all around for a couple of minutes. The nuts and bolts will scrape off any rust very well. Dump the alcohol and the hardware then flush out the tank.
Get a liquid fuel tank liner and follow the directions on the label.
Google “ kreem liquid fuel tank liner “ or go to www.http://www.4secondsflat.com/Fuel_Tank_Sealer.html
Posted on Nov 01, 2009
SOURCE: bultaco 350 trails bike ,
First, you're mixing the oil to the manufacturer's specification, right? No matter what it says on the oil bottle, mix it how Bultaco intended or it will, indeed, run hot. Until the piston galls..
You're much better off to buy high-octane fuel than to try to improve poor fuel with additives. Poor fuel is poor and that's all there is to it and, in my opinion, there is some pretty poor fuel being sold today. You might have to get into the dyed, off-road only fuels to find something this bike likes, a two-stroke that's running on the pipe can hit impressive pressures in the combustion chamber, so quality fuel is in order.
How does the spark plug look? It should be clean and the color of wheat bread toast. White, ashy, scalded-looking, blistered, chipped/cracked are all indications of too hot of a plug, lean fuel mixture, ignition timing too advanced.
Exhaust blockage is the last thing I'll mention. Ensure there is no restriction in the exhaust. If you can pull the muffler out of the end of the pipe, do so and see if it's still getting hot.
Go through this, get back with me on the 'comments', we'll get you going.
Posted on Jan 05, 2011
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